February 28, 2015, 04:13:45 PM

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Messages - sagittariansrock

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Lenses / Re: Lenses to consider
« on: February 06, 2015, 05:15:43 PM »
Mathematically 100, 125, 150, 200 make more sense than 135 and 180. If the arguement made here stacks up then why have a 180 & a 200 and why jump from 135 to 200 if you exclude the fact the 180 is a macro lens.

Depending on what kind of math you follow.
In this case, the numerical focal length matters less than the Angle of view.
The AoV for the commonly used telephoto focal lengths are (horizontally):
100mm: 20 degrees
135mm: 15 degrees
200mm: 10 degrees
400mm: 5 degrees and so on.
That is why, 135mm makes sense and not 125 or 150.

Mind you, lenses at some focal lengths are probably more optimal (in terms of price and performance) to design than others- that is a more important aspect for designers than keeping symmetry in numbers.

Street & City / Re: Joe's Tuscan Adventure
« on: February 05, 2015, 08:38:09 PM »
I can see where you're coming from. I must admit, this holiday was the first time I had held a camera in years, and the holiday that sparked what is now something I'm very enthusiastic about.

The way I saw this as different from a tourist shot is just that it's not a viewpoint people take, there are millions of the palace itself, both interior and exterior. But no one was looking up.

I'll upload more when I find something other than photobucket to host my images on as it's making them appalling.

Cheers for the title tip

<Place "Like" icon here>

Street & City / Re: Palazzo Vecchio
« on: February 05, 2015, 07:56:12 PM »
I am a very novice photographer, so take this with a heap of salt and in the spirit that I usually post images on CR- to get help getting better. That I am critiquing your post doesn't necessarily mean I can do better, but since you were brave enough to post I am guessing you really want and can take constructive criticism.

I saw the photo and thought- what is special about this photo that differentiates it from a casual tourist snap shot? I couldn't find it, honestly (and experts, feel free to point out what I can't see- as I said, I am a novice). I feel this is mediocre.

IMO, symmetry or any play with the geometry, an attempt to bring out the details in the sky or to bring out the color in the architecture and make it vibrant- things like that could have set this apart.

Maybe share more from your stock, or work a bit more on this?
By the way, Joe- you can change the thread title yourself.

When Canon was pushing the megapixels, people complain about the loss in IQ and how it was important to do what Nikon did- focus on the quality.
After they stopped doing that, and created a fantastic camera in the 5D III, people pointed out how Nikon "innovated" by creating a 36 MP camera (brave business decision, yes- but purchasing a sensor from Sony and building a camera around it is not the epitome of innovation IMO).
Now that Canon has created a 50 MP camera, I hear all these naysayers.
There are, of course, Nikon haters as well- who complained about large file sizes and how the LCD looks too green blah blah blah!
It is amazing that these people never stop to think about all their own shortcomings that won't be solved by a 100MP 20-stop DR sensor. Of course, neither Canon nor Nikon pays any attention to them because the total impact created by these people outside the forum, artistically or vocally, is ZERO.
Those who know how to use their equipment will continue creating beautiful images making the best of what they have.

I don't need a 50MP camera myself, but I salute human innovation that is always pushing the boundaries. I am sure lots of people will be very happy. Go Canon!

Lenses / Re: A New Nifty Fifty Coming [CR1]
« on: February 04, 2015, 07:06:37 PM »
Not another STM, come on...
I hate the slower focusing speed and focusing by wire of STMs... >:(

I will agree with you on the focus by wire, as I find it very annoying as well. I couldn't imagine doing video with manual focus. However, the focus speeds of the non pancake lenses that I have used have all been very fast to lock focus. Not quite USM speeds, but right there. The EF-M 18-55 and EF-S 18-135, both STM I've used on numerous occasions and focus speed has never been an issue.

Now, I also have the EF 40mm, EF-S 24mm, and EF-M 22mm pancakes, and they leave much to be desired in terms of focus speed. Night and day difference compared to the "full size" STM lenses.

Good to know, thanks.
I have only used the 40mm and 22mm M, and as you noted, they were slow.
However, I'd still want a 'fast' fifty to be literally fast as well ;D

Lighting / Re: Off camera cord- how to connect it to cold shoes?
« on: February 04, 2015, 07:05:05 PM »
Frio cold shoe is pretty tight, but I can get the flash on and off, so that's what counts. Flash won't pop or slide off the Frio accidentally - one has to push down hard to get the Frio to release. For some reason I find it easier to unscrew the Frio from the stand and then remove the Frio from the flash.

Well, I don't really want to go through the unscrewing process while shooting, period.
Which is why I bought a bunch of these shoes. Fortunately, the ones I purchased are a lot cheaper than the Frio and easy to slide on or off (talk about a double edged sword!).
Anyway, found this on ebay for $ 3.50 for a pair that will probably work even better than the Vivitar replacement shoe option:

This is basically a 1/4-20 screw with a metal foot on the other end, and a couple of nuts in between. You screw the 1/4-20 end to the bottom of your off camera cord flash end, and tighten one nut- then you slide the foot into a cold shoe and tighten the other nut. Pretty nice.

Lighting / Re: Off camera cord- how to connect it to cold shoes?
« on: February 04, 2015, 03:34:43 PM »
Hi all,
So the cold shoe (as I mentioned, the Nisha brand) is fixed on a) Umbrella swivels and b) Modified 175 clamps (regular Manfrotto clamp modified to a Justin clamp with a Giottos ballhead and screw).
I don't have a ST-E3-RT, so when I need my commander to be off-camera, I will need it to be on one of the cold shoes via the off camera cord- hence the need to attach the base of the flash end of the off camera cord to one of these cold shoes.
Neuro, I can take off the cold shoe and attach it directly to the 1/4-20, but I will invariably lose the loose cold shoe and it is a little fiddly if I want to replace the commander with one of the slaves, for then I have to put the shoe back on.
Halfrack- I already have a longer (5m) straight cord and even the OCF one doesn't have a locking foot (although it does look like metal).
PBD, I agree the plastic foot will probably be fine on a screw-type cold shoe forever, but I will have to buy one of those anyway- I have already invested in a bunch of Nisha ones (plus I personally don't like the screw ones).
Ok, so I figured out a solution (in case anyone is interested):
Vivitar makes these replacement metal feet. They cost about $ 7 on ebay. I plan to buy one of them and then screw it semi-permanently to the base of the flash end of the off-camera cord. This is a metal foot with a locking collar, so it will work with the Nisha shoes (or any shoe for that matter).
Incidentally, I found afterwards that Michael Bass designs will sell you these things, for a whopping $ 60!!!  :o
Nope, I'd DIY mine for $ 7...
Here's a picture... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_CRxbBKkoqIY/TLXAdI-abRI/AAAAAAAACKw/ZWxm7-5r6p8/s200/OC-E3_MetalFoot.jpg

Lighting / Re: Off camera cord- how to connect it to cold shoes?
« on: February 04, 2015, 11:23:45 AM »
Yes the Frio would solve the problem.

The Frio has a positive lock clip that the Nisha does not have, so your OCC would be locked into the Frio.

I have heard problems with the 600EX-Rt locking collar with Frio.
Seems like it is way too tight?

Lenses / Re: Lenses to consider
« on: February 04, 2015, 10:15:23 AM »
Canon should consider an EF125mm f2.8 (crop 200mm) and a EF150 f2.8 (crop 240mm) possibly making the EF150 marco along the lines of the EF100 f2.8L lens. Currently excluding the EF180mm Macro lens Canon goes from 135mm to 200mm in fixed focal lenght in standard form.

If they can make both to the optical performance of the EF100 f2.8L or higher then I think they will sell reasonably well.

There is very little difference between the small AoV's you mention.
The differences are much larger at the wide end.

Lenses / Re: A New Nifty Fifty Coming [CR1]
« on: February 04, 2015, 10:12:56 AM »
Not another STM, come on...
I hate the slower focusing speed and focusing by wire of STMs... >:(

Lighting / Off camera cord- how to connect it to cold shoes?
« on: February 03, 2015, 03:20:42 PM »
Hi all
I am assuming at least some of you use the newer cold shoes that don't screw on but allow the flip-lock system a la Canon to both tighten down on metal rails as well as push the locking pin in (e.g., Nisha is the brand I have, linked below- but Frio will have the same problem)
However, my off camera cord just has a square plastic plate at the bottom that is too loose in the cold shoe above. I am leery of using a screw-type cold shoe as it is too unstable and tightening it too much might break the plastic plate above.
So I was wondering, what is any solution have you all come up with?
Thanks in advance.

Lenses / Re: New 50mm & 70-300 Coming Soon? [CR2]
« on: February 03, 2015, 09:22:50 AM »
Good news. Canon has been slacking off with the non-L EF lenses. All of the love has been going to the STM lenses for crop. Their cheaper FF lens lineup is seriously getting outdated and needs a big jolt of mojo. If they can bring STM level image quality to cheaper EF lenses, then full frame will be much more appealing to the lower market.

24mm f/2.8 IS, 28mm f/2.8 IS, 35mm f/2 IS.

Lighting / Re: No 600EX-RT discounts this holiday?
« on: February 01, 2015, 04:18:24 AM »

When the 650 or 700 comes out, which I don't expect soon.

Having said that put your email down with Canon Price Watch, when the refurbs come in they are often priced at $373 with free shipping and Canon 12 month warranty.

good call. I will do that today. P.S., Gordon at CanonPriceWatch is amazing. seriously, he responded to an order email within 20 minutes on Christmas day. That is insanely good customer service. Too good in fact.

I believe he is a secret early attempt by Google or Apple or somebody at a future intelligent auto response system.  :)

It doesn't seem to matter what time of the day or night, what day or timezone you are in, he gets the right answer to you personally within half an hour.

I will never by a Canon product again without emailing him first.

I am happy to say that CPW must have received (and deservedly) commissions for every Canon purchase of mine since November 2013, and saved me twice that amount perhaps.

Thanks all for your posts. Your advice is most informative and the images on your websites are fantastic and most humbling.

IndustrialAndrew and CreationHeart, thanks for explaining the pros and cons of umbrellas. As a result I did buy some umbrellas (2 convertible see through/reflective, 1 silver double fold) but I got them cheap (@ average $ 15 per at B&H). I will, however, get a 64" soft silver PLM from PCB with umbrella mount as soon as I move in April. Got some great advice from the tech stuff there. I just love the fact that I will get something with pretty directional light allowing me to feather while still wrapping around nicely. Very versatile, and a steal for 50 bucks or so. Thanks, Paulc (Paul C??).

Thanks, Spiros and Jamesy, for the Westcott/Phottix advice. For now, I decided to stick with stuff where I can get access to the flash, and the movement on the Apollo seems too restricted- I will definitely need something like the offset arm if I ever get an umbrella softbox so thanks for the tip, Andrew!

On the umbrella swivels crushing the rods point- both my umbrellas have sealed ends- does that mean that the shaft might be solid or is that wishful thinking?

PW, great advice re bouncing flash, but you do have the knowledge to use a PLM whenever you need to. I need to practice and have that tool in my belt since I am a complete novice with modifiers.

Pookie, thanks for the very informative post. I have seen a bunch of images and the rotalux boxes look great, but maybe down the line. I ended up getting the 24inch softbox but unfortunately one without internal diffuser (there are ones on ebay that do have the baffles, I just got one from Amazon and didn't notice it didn't. I suppose I can DIY a diffuser if I see a hot spot, although I need to figure out which cloth will have the same kind of heat resistance and diffusion. Also, you mentioned baffles to make the catchlight round. How would you do that? (on hindsight, Cheetahstand sells a box with 2 baffles, a grid and the round mask, but it is also 4x the cost. Maybe later I will go for that one when this one breaks).

Lenses / Re: Practical use of the ef 50mm 1.2L
« on: January 29, 2015, 06:33:58 PM »
I'd suggest rapid-firing at 6 fps and asking your subject to slowly come closer or recede. Some of the images will have the eye in sharp focus  ::)

On a more serious note, as Dylan said, if you're using it at or close to f/1.2 you shouldn't have problems.

1) A real solution (which could have many good uses) would be to be able to shoot with bracketed MicroAdjustment. A simple thing to programme.

2) As I wrote f/1.2 has no focus shift - at all. Shooting nearly wide however is not a way to avoid focus shift. Have not tested but expect by f/5.6 its zero (or virtually zero). Shooting nearly wide is begging to confron the focus shift (if shooting close portrait distance w/50L)

1) As Rahul also asked, can you elaborate? Sounds exciting, although I have no coding experience... :( I ask only out of curiosity at this point, I don't own any f/1.2 lens.
2) As far as I understand focus shift (courtesy of this forum and Neuroanatomist, and confirmed through further reading), focus shift occurs due to a mismatch in focus while metering (wide open) and while shooting (if stopped down). Therefore, when shooting wide open there should not be any focus shift, by definition. So there might be real world workarounds, but shooting wide open should definitely work.
2b) I have never used the 50/1.2L myself but the two technical reasons I mentioned caused me to suspect the focus shift claims haters love to harp on. It seems your personal experience confirms my suspicion.

edit: Roger at Lensrentals confirms the presence of focus shift. His methodologies are so spot on, and he has access to so many copies, I am inclined to believe him over and above everyone else.

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