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Topics - ZoeEnPhos

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Hi all here who knows better than me about the future upgrades!

I wonder if there might be a small  or any chance, that Canon may or will produce an upgrade of the white Canon EF 200mm f/2L IS USM in near future?

Wishing you all happy shootings!

Greetings from Europe and Sweden!


Hello Forum Readers :) [/size][/color]![/font]
[/size][/color]May I ask you for some advice and help to find a light-weight carbon fibre tripod without a center column.[/font]
[/size][/color]So I simply wonder if someone might have a pleasant and a satisfied experience by using for you a good working tripod in your practical photographing from a "light-weight-carbon-fibre-tripod-without-center-column"?[/font]
[/size][/color]Looking for the Sirui TX-models, but the problem with this model is, that I do not wish to have center-column and Sirui has centre column![/font]
[/size][/color]I already have a heavier one Gitzo GT3541 XLS (that has no centre-column) but wish to have lighter tripod that is more easier to carry outdoors, for mainly very low-macro-levels-photography (wild flowers often quite tiny and low and small in size). (Therefore I do not wish to have any kind of center-column!)[/font]
[/size][/color]I already have the RRS BH-40 ball head.[/font]
[/size][/color]And I also have their TFA-01 tablepod´with the very small ballhead BH-25, but the "problem" with this tablepod is that it mainly works when the three legs are fully splayed. so it will be sometimes TOO low.[/font]
[/size][/color]( I had tested to put a tilthead on the BH-25 and a side-kick but that makes it a bit heavy with a 5DMK3 and sometimes I use a long lens so the rig has total weight about 4kg. The BH-25 is said good for 4kg load.[/font]
[/size][/color]But - maybe a tripod would be the best solution but which one?[/font]
[/size][/color]I also have looked at a low-sized monopod but the lowest is about 38cm that is too high for coming low enough in order to get the right level for low growing flowers and plants.[/font]
[/size][/color]Anyhow maybe someone of you have already done a thoroughly research among tripods and can maybe leave me some advice or suggestion as being a decent alternative to an [/font]"light-weight-carbon-fibre-tripod-without-center-column"?
[/size][/color]Looking forward to your advice![/font]
[/color][/size]Zoe[/color][/size][/color][/size]Please note that I am not living in USA so some tripods could be hard to find on European market that is easy to purchase in USA![/color]


Dear Forum contributors and wise adviser!

Not having any experience about replacement foot I am about to purchase the Canon EF300mm/f2.8 IS II USM and I am considering to right from the beginning purchase a replacement foot for the lens.
However there is a few to make the choice of.
But I am mostly into the RRS clamps and ballheads and tilt head from RRS.
So please is the RRS the best option?
1. a RRS LCF-52: Foot for Canon EF300mm/f2.8 IS-II Cost in Euro: 111.90€
Or should I instead choose one of these:
2.  A Jobu Quick Release Lens Plate Replacement Foot LF-C504M2 - Euro 99.95€
or  3. a Kirk Quick Release Lens Plate LP-59 for Canon 300mm f/2.8 IS II USM Euro  78.95€ incl. VAT

All look good but somehow I am a bit tempted to go with the Really Right Stuff LCF:52 with the weight of only 68 g!

I would very much appreciate your thoughts and advice if you have time and interest in this question about replacement feet to tele-photo-lenses.

Wishing you All the Very Best!

Charl (Sweden)

Lenses / About using the Canon Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52?
« on: December 29, 2012, 11:56:52 AM »
Hi Forum Readers!

About the use of the Canon Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52

I am a bit interested in how often you actually use this filter and in which situations you find the desirable use of the Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52 with your tele-lenses from Canon?

The benefits may be the many?(I am considering if this filter would be part of my equipement?) but there is also this fact of a light loss of up to 2 stops, but maybe a fast glass like EF300mm with f/2.8 would be the right lens to be equipped with this filter? Is the filter-effect affected if you are using the lens stopped down (like f/8)?

I am mostly interested in the end result,what the Drop-in Circular Polarizing Filter PL-C 52 can add to your photographs compared to photos without this filter.

Anyone here who maybe like to share something, about your experiences, when you are using this filter?

Wishing you all a very good new year 2014!

Greetings to you all!

Hi all!
My first question in this category here on Canonrumors Forum -
I am using Mac OS X Version 10.6.8 and I did recently updated my LR4.2 to the last update version LR4.3.
By this update the Adjustment brush stopped reacting! When used it saves the history and the "dots" BUT makes NO adjustments to the .CR2!
I have tried to revert all presets to the Standard settings.
Tried all possibilities I could find in order to set all to standard presets.

So I wonder if some one else has experienced this same unwanted change, when you updated your LR4.2 version to the  LR4.3 or latest version?

Do I need to uninstall the LR4 and reinstall the LR4.2?

I would appreciate any help for solution - if there is any solution present?
(By the way, I also did check out the Adjustment brush settings that the flow and density was right)

(I have even search the ADOBE LR4 Forum without finding any advice for a solution!)

Wishing you all a very nice week-end!
And greetings from a snowy winter Sweden! (Still snowing quite heavily right now!)


Dear Forum Readers who uses the new Canon EOS 5D Mark III.

The Canon 5D Mark III is the first Canon full-frame DSLR that has Chromatic Aberration Correction feature built into the camera firmware (vignetting and distortion correction have been available previously).

Just in the moment of receiving this camera - I would appreciate answer to this one question first; - are you using this feature IN CAMERA as "Enable",


are you instead using .CR2 - RAW files but  WITHOUT this feature and set to "Disable" and doing the correction in DPP?

Is there any benefit of using NR for long exposures IN CAMERA when using .CR2-RAW files?

I would appreciate your advice and take on these two questions.

Happy Shootings!



To any interested Forum Readers/Writers an open question!

Is there any need of adding a screen protector to the LCD screen to the new 5D Mark III?

I search this forum about the need of screen protector to the new 5D Mark III and I tried to find out if there is any real need for to add a screen protector to the the LCD screen on the 5D Mark III that seems to be gorgeous?

OTOH Canon has used hardened glass protector in front of the LCD with anti-reflective coating to 5D Mark III, - so I started to question/doubt IF there is a real need, to add a additionally screen protector of good quality to a new 5D Mark III?

I would appreciate some thoughts and opinions about this need, if someone had dug into this minor detail of the need of screen protector?

(A short note - I think I do prefer thin protective film  if there is a real need instead of a more "ugly-looking" bigger plastic LCD-protector type.)

All the Best wishes to you all!


Lenses / Bokeh Quality from Different Fullframes vs APS-C´s DLSRs?
« on: November 06, 2012, 09:34:11 AM »
Dear Forum Readers/Writers!

Maybe my question is not interesting or not relevant to be answered?

I searched the forum for the quality of the bokeh, and find a tread about bokeh from different fast Canon lenses.
However - my question is - could different sizes of the sensor affect the end result how the quality of the bokeh will appear in the photo? The quality of bokeh in for example flower-images has made me interested and open my eyes for the right use of bokeh in order to create a photo that will be a complete in relation between sharpness and bokeh. Maybe here is others who has already dug into this subject much more profoundly and solidly?

For example can 5DMKII vs 5DMKIII vs 1DX produce slightly different character of how the bokeh will be formed in the photo when comparing the three full-format-sensors - due to the different mega-pixel-numbers?

Is the bokeh from an APS-C DSLR different in quality from the look from a full-frame DSLR´s?

Is the bokeh produced by the super-tele-lenses the most soft-edged, even with the quite "poor" MFD ((Minimum Focus Distance)?

(How about using many Extension Tubes, how many have you tested to stack when using for example the EF300/500/600mm, in order to not get vignetting?
And last q - will the use of an additional and different Extender affect the bokeh in some way by prolonging the focal-lenght- when using either the APS-C vs full-frame sensor DSLR?

I would appreciate if someone maybe happens to have some experience of the bokeh result that you value and are satisfied with! 8)

Wishing you all happy shootings!


PS. The photo is with full-frame 5DMKII with EF100mm f/2.8L IS USM @ f/2.8 and the yellowish flowers are Rudbeckia which is an ancient flower named after Carl von Linné professor Olof Rudbeck Jr in Uppsala Sweden and the blue is a field of Cornflower, Bachelors button, Bluebottle, Boutonniere flower, Hurtsickle, or Cyani flower.

About the basic using of the Canon EOS 5D Mark III ( I have just made an order for Canon EOS 5D MarkIII and I am bit novice in how to make the right options for my future photography)

Firstly how can I understand the main and functional difference between manual selections of:

1 - Single-point-Spot-AF

2 - Single-point-AF

3 - Single-point Expansion AF

4 - AF Point Expansion

and with the AI Servo AF-function - which selection is the best when for example tracking BIF (Birds In Flight)?
And is the Case number five (5) or six (6) best choice to tracking a flying bird? What are you Bird Photographers using together with your Mark III DSLRs if I may ask your valued advice?

I have lenses in these Groups of A, B, C and group E.

Another importance would be - how can I choose and LOCK the right exposure value, by only using the shutter-button and NOT using the AE-Lock button in back of the camera, so it remains as I wish if I use SPOT-METERING with Single-point-Spot-AF? Is this possible? I feel that I can not really find the answer from the English manual (I am Swedish speaking natively)

Why I am asking this is, that I have noticed on my MKII when there is this option to choosing the Evaluating Exposure Measure - option, and I do "lock" the focus with the chosen center-focus-point (that I only use with my MKII) the MarkII also keeps that EXPOSURE VALUE which was in the focus-area-center and my single center-point-focus-area kind of is guiding and "locking" and keep the EV "locked" as long as I keep the shutter-button half-way pressed down and I do not release it - have you the same experience with using your MarkII and can this same option work with Mark III?

(By the way, this is not the case with my 7D that will re-estimate the exposure-value, if I change the framed selection from where I have locked-the-focus in lens, by keeping the shutter-button pressed down half-way!)
I just wonder how this using-shutter-button half-way pressed-down, will work on my not yet received 5D Mark III?
Or is this working only together with the 1DX (namely the Single-point-Spot-AF with "locked" spot-exposure value)?
Sorry if I am a bit vague here - I do not have the Mark III DSLR in my hands yet today but wish to start the learning curve in advance!

If anyone could give me some guidance - because I really wish to know HOW to make this working and NOT using the AE-Lock Button in the back of the camera!

Wishing you all All the Best!

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Is this an Overkill to purchase the EOS....
« on: November 02, 2012, 07:15:22 AM »
Dear Co-Canon-DSLR-Great-Photographers in here,

A Question to all of you here in this Forum for EOS Bodies, who hopefully are today very happy and also very satisfied owners of the newest Canon EOS 5D Mark III,

Please .... I wonder if I could ask you something about your so-far-experiences-from-field-using, that I would appreciate your opinion very much and to be able to reading some of your spontaneously thoughts/experiences/impressions (specially compared to the old 5D Mark II) about,
if you do consider me to have done a reasonable wise choice to lately place an order today in order to purchase the newest Canon 5D Mark III, after months of giving this decision a constant pros and cons compared to the two DSLRs I already own that is my 5D Mark II (since August 2010) and 7D since May 2011, that I purchased around May 2011 for better reach to my EF300lenses,
by making an order today (2nd Nov 2012) for a brand new Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR?

I have been considering this purchase of the new Canon 5D Mark III, for a long long time until now - because I just see that my recent interest in trying out the - for me demanding bird-photography (I have been a bird watcher since my early age/childhood) and also in doing some macro photography under windy circumstances, and fast moving and shy butterflies, has demanded from my full frame camera (5DMark II) a much much better and faster AUTOFOCUS ability that I think the most 5D MarkII-owners sometimes lacks from their DSLRs.

(I have in the process also considered the 1DX for some time too - and the also reading about the 1D Mark IV - but then again - also doing a lot of landscape and allround photographing, including even super-wide-angel lenses; I have come to the conclusion in which I now can find rest: that a full frame DSLR is the optimal choice compared to use instead the APS-H with crop-factor 1.3 X.)

So - my simple question is - do you think, who are here reading this my simple question of some degree of doubt of my own conclusion, and who already owns and using the newest Canon 5D Mark III - maybe either pity me for such (unthinkable wrong) a purchase/investment?
or maybe you could perhaps instead giving me at least a small congratulation, to the newest technology and overall benefits by being soon (God willing) a new owner to a brand new Canon EOS 5D Mark III with the "light-leak" issue solved, during this month of November 2012 AD?

....or should I have waited instead to purchase the coming new DSLR´s, from Canon instead or even purchase the new 6D to start deliveries during the December 2012, or even going all the way to purchase the last 1DX?

(The next wish-purchase will be one of the new super-tele-lenses in order to have the right equipement for wildlife and bird photography - and therefore I will need a better AUTOFOCUS function also from a decent fullframe DSLR from Canon !)

So - do you give my thumbs up? or maybe thumbs pointing more horizontally? or maybe even having the thumb pointing all the way down, for my decision to buy the newest 5D Mark III, with for example more quiet DSLR by using the silent mode in nature or in churches etc and other nice things to be used that is NOT in the older version of 5D Mark II?

.....still feeling a bit ...semi-un-sure about my order from today!

Wishing you all - All the Best and a big THANK for every thought short or long, to you all in advance!


Please - I do need some wise advise 2choose: EF500II/EF600II/EF200-400?  :-\

Yesterday I visited a mini-photo-exhibition with Canon pro photo desk - where they showed the one of the two available in Europe a pro-production Canon EF200-400mm together with the two new EF500mmII and EF600mmII!

After holding and lifting and handling these three super-tele-lenses and comparing the balance and weight - I felt somehow a bit undecided which ONE to pick for my - future wildlife and predominately bird-photography that I have never really and truly invested in - to really seriously try to photographing!
The main thing is of course the hand held ability in the field.
Comparing the EF500II and EF600II made my somehow a bit surprised by the very little real difference of the weigh-factor comparing between these two long-lenses!
I spontaneously came to the impression and part-conclusion that the new EF600mm f/4L IS USM II is so close in weight to the EF500II that I think that it actually maybe would be even the better choice of the two super-tele-lenses namely for full frame DSLR?
My present two DSLR´s are Canon EOS 7D/ 5D MarkII.
I am also in need of a new DSLR body - thinking about 5D Mark III OR 1DX OR 1DMKIV - but leaning now mostly to the 5DMarkIII or who knows - maybe the new 6D with the brand new sensor could be even a bit better in lowlight compared to the MarkIII? That was the Canon Pro Photo informer´s personal un-tested impression about the new coming 6D consumer model that is cheaper than the 5DMKII?
Anyhow - my main question is this:

Investing about 100 000SEK on a new super-tele-lens - should you in my shoes - choose EF600mm f/4L IS USM II before the EF500mm f/4L IS USM II or wait for the EF200-400mm f/4L with Extender 1.4x (560mm f/5.6) with the weight around 4000gr according to the un-checked weight said by the Canon Pro Photo informator at the Canon desk!

I must say that holding the new EF600mm II was little like being very positively surprised by the big barrel that is so "light" (there is always a curve of learning and adopting to handle a big lens).
My present "biggest" tele is the old first version of Canon EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM I with both Extenders version III and also EF300mm f/4L IS and EF70-200mm f/2.8L II/ 4L IS also.
Should I sell one of the 300mm:s or one of the tele-zooms according to your valued opinons?

I would very much appreciate your experiences in handling long-tele-lenses out there in the real field work in various weather conditions etc!

Pros and cons?

Pros - EF600mm II more reach with full frame DSLR and more versatile together with the new EF Extender 1.4X and 2X converters (compared to the EF800mm f/5.6L) that this lens EF600 II, is specially adopted to perform well together with.
Cons - more expensive (but not over-all much more in relation to what EF500mm already costs) and the weight 8.64 lb (3.92 kg) compared to EF500mm II = 7.03 lb (3.19 kg) the difference is = 0.73kg or 730gr or 1.61 lb
Maybe the longer Minimum Focus Distance (EF600mm)=5.0m vs EF500mm=4.0 m
The EF600mm will be a bit bigger back-pack and to handle and to transporting in airplanes etc

(In addition - to a long-super-tele-lens there might always be the additional requirements of more high-class equipement that will add costs like - I do not yet have chosen a Gimbal or a good and light ball-head (Acratech(Arca-Swiss P0) to my tripod still without a ball-head it is a - Gitzo GT3541XLS Systematic 6X Carbon Fiber Tripod Legs - and I recently found this only carbon built Gimbal head and therefore thinking about the carbon gimbal head made by Sirui GP-20 with having low-weight pros compared to Wimberley II about 0.4kg!

I am also considering the need of purchase the Gitzo Monopod called - Gitzo GM5561T Traveler 6x Carbon Fiber Monopod - Supports 55.1 lbs (25kg) but it is really expensive!(I have already the RRS Monopod head - with quick-arcs-swiss-quick-load).

So if there is someone with some time to answer my questions and maybe who are familiar with these choices - please do share your experiences with me!

Wishing you all the very best and may you have great shoots out there in the field with photos that makes difference for you!


Dear Co-Canon-Lens-Users!

Anyone here having the experience of Dust particles or a some kind of visible "mark" inside the lenses and between the most rear lens element pointing into the camera (not in the front elements) of Canon EF 135 f/2L

I would very much appreciate your advice, if someone have cared to maybe try to "open up"  or disassemble yourself a lens in order to remove internal dust particles from a EF135mm f/2L without IS?

1. Is this "over-kill" to do?
2. Will Canon accept to remove this from a "L"-lens that should be dust-resistant?
3. Could this operation to take apart an new Canon factory "put-together" lens even have the risk of making the whole lens out of center or even worse the dust-problem?
4. Is Canon granting a free dust-removal to a brand-new lens that is less than a year old since purchased?
5. the dust or some kind of visible "mark" is between the most rear glass and the next one as far as I can see when I look through the open lens against light from window - could I somehow "open" this lens myself or is it maybe jeopardize the integrity of this lens altogether?

To me it is a bit a disappointment to find this dust/mark quite late after purchase in April 2012 this year and I am in doubt of getting any real help!

What is your most wise advice - if you yourself were into this dust/visible mark inside a fast glass like this and the dust/visible mark is in REAR of the lens barrel=?

Thank you for your valued thoughts/advice!

Wishing you all the Best and of course may you have NO dust in your primes!


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