March 05, 2015, 02:13:24 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - ZoeEnPhos

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4
It's not the same sensor.  Canon's web site describes it as a new design.

Of course it's not the same - it's 20 MP, not 22 MP.  But if it uses the same production technologies found in the 5DIII and 5DII, the IQ should only be marginally different, if at all.

Hello Neuro!

I was holding the 6D in my hands and asking the Canon-representative here in Sweden about the sensor and especially the low-light-capacity and
he (K. Mörk, Svenska Canon Sweden) told me that this sensor is NOT the same as used in 5DMK3 but it is totally NEW and that he was thinking that 6D sensor will be performing a bit and slightly
 better than even the 5DMK3 but this said in the low-light-situations when using high ISO. This is from our conversation from 31st October 2012 - that is my two cents in this thread)
Have a good day!


Why do you like it if you use it?

Thanks in advance,


Hello Cayenne!

Good question you rised here!

* Mostly when photographing in the darkness of night-time and when the exposure simulation is particularly handy,
when camera is on tripod with different lenses after sunset in night-time-photographing.
* When using 10x magnification to set manual focus when camera is on tripod for example when using my telelens with extenders, and to
have the benefit of mirror-locking at the same time during exposure.
* When using my TS-E 17L/24LII/90mm to set the critical focus when using tilt in closeup/landscape/cityscapes

(One observation - when I am using recently the live-view with my 5DM3,  I was a bit surprised (un-scientifically noted!), that the 5DMK3 consumes battery,
 a bit faster compared with my 5MK2? I wonder if you have noted this "down-side" with live-view - but I always have at least three battery-packs with me!)

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 Mirror Lock up use and reccomendations
« on: November 18, 2012, 06:17:00 AM »
The major point - when you use live view, it's the same as mirror lockup.

Not exactly - it's better.  Live View uses an electronic first curtain, so not only do you get the reduction in vibration from MLU, you also get a small additional reduction in vibration from the first shutter curtain.
Hello Neuroanatomist! Thanks for this information about Live-view vs MLU! Thank you too wcksmith for this initial advice! I was just trying to get this fact confirmed about using live-view when the focusing is critical and when
need to reduce the vibrations from the mirror slap to minimum!
Very good to have this cleared out! Thanks a lots!



Dear Forum Readers who uses the new Canon EOS 5D Mark III.

The Canon 5D Mark III is the first Canon full-frame DSLR that has Chromatic Aberration Correction feature built into the camera firmware (vignetting and distortion correction have been available previously).

Just in the moment of receiving this camera - I would appreciate answer to this one question first; - are you using this feature IN CAMERA as "Enable",


are you instead using .CR2 - RAW files but  WITHOUT this feature and set to "Disable" and doing the correction in DPP?

Is there any benefit of using NR for long exposures IN CAMERA when using .CR2-RAW files?

I would appreciate your advice and take on these two questions.

Happy Shootings!


EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 7D Mark II Rumors Surface [CR1]
« on: November 08, 2012, 09:29:37 AM »
Gotta keep the two processors.  It's the secret to the focusing performance...
Really?  How do the dual Digic 4 processors in the 7D contribute to focusing performance?  Or is the secret that Canon is lying when they state, "The EOS 7D has a 19-point autofocus system, all of which are cross-type points, that includes a separate AF processor to help to provide fast, reliable and accurate autofocus for photographers in all shooting situations."

Hello again Neuroanatomist!

Big THANK for your excellent specs/facts about the 7D!
Appreciated much!
Wishing you a very good day sir!


To any interested Forum Readers/Writers an open question!

Is there any need of adding a screen protector to the LCD screen to the new 5D Mark III?

I search this forum about the need of screen protector to the new 5D Mark III and I tried to find out if there is any real need for to add a screen protector to the the LCD screen on the 5D Mark III that seems to be gorgeous?

OTOH Canon has used hardened glass protector in front of the LCD with anti-reflective coating to 5D Mark III, - so I started to question/doubt IF there is a real need, to add a additionally screen protector of good quality to a new 5D Mark III?

I would appreciate some thoughts and opinions about this need, if someone had dug into this minor detail of the need of screen protector?

(A short note - I think I do prefer thin protective film  if there is a real need instead of a more "ugly-looking" bigger plastic LCD-protector type.)

All the Best wishes to you all!


Lenses / Re: Bokeh Quality from Different Fullframes vs APS-C´s DLSRs?
« on: November 07, 2012, 06:43:56 AM »
This guy's definition of "good Bokeh" is similar to that of Ken Rockwell

Thanks to you DB for your provided link above!Very interesting discussion in the article!

On this same site I also found some additional discussion about:
 if IS/VR would change the BOKEH - with beginning from this thread:

and further into the same questions this same subject was discussed again in more analysis in this link:

So maybe someone here on this forum has also had this thought - if the image stabilization (IS) would in some special cases actually impact your image and the background bokeh in some way?

Wishing you a wonderful new day!


Lenses / Bokeh Quality from Different Fullframes vs APS-C´s DLSRs?
« on: November 06, 2012, 09:34:11 AM »
Dear Forum Readers/Writers!

Maybe my question is not interesting or not relevant to be answered?

I searched the forum for the quality of the bokeh, and find a tread about bokeh from different fast Canon lenses.
However - my question is - could different sizes of the sensor affect the end result how the quality of the bokeh will appear in the photo? The quality of bokeh in for example flower-images has made me interested and open my eyes for the right use of bokeh in order to create a photo that will be a complete in relation between sharpness and bokeh. Maybe here is others who has already dug into this subject much more profoundly and solidly?

For example can 5DMKII vs 5DMKIII vs 1DX produce slightly different character of how the bokeh will be formed in the photo when comparing the three full-format-sensors - due to the different mega-pixel-numbers?

Is the bokeh from an APS-C DSLR different in quality from the look from a full-frame DSLR´s?

Is the bokeh produced by the super-tele-lenses the most soft-edged, even with the quite "poor" MFD ((Minimum Focus Distance)?

(How about using many Extension Tubes, how many have you tested to stack when using for example the EF300/500/600mm, in order to not get vignetting?
And last q - will the use of an additional and different Extender affect the bokeh in some way by prolonging the focal-lenght- when using either the APS-C vs full-frame sensor DSLR?

I would appreciate if someone maybe happens to have some experience of the bokeh result that you value and are satisfied with! 8)

Wishing you all happy shootings!


PS. The photo is with full-frame 5DMKII with EF100mm f/2.8L IS USM @ f/2.8 and the yellowish flowers are Rudbeckia which is an ancient flower named after Carl von Linné professor Olof Rudbeck Jr in Uppsala Sweden and the blue is a field of Cornflower, Bachelors button, Bluebottle, Boutonniere flower, Hurtsickle, or Cyani flower.

Using Custom Controls, you can assign AE Lock to the shutter half-press (you can do that on the 7D, as well).

Didnt know this....

Why is this not the default setting?

So doe sthis mean, if I choose spot metering and center AF and lock AE the way you have described, that I essentially have a 1 D series exposure lock synced with the AF, albeit only center point?

If it were the default setting, you'd have to take the shot - your metering would be locked until you took the shot or it timed out.  You may not want AE Lock with anything but spot metering, anyway, I suspect.

Don't have my 1D X or 7D with me, but in the custom controls for the shutter button, I think the options are metering + AF start, metering only, or AE Lock.  I think if you assign AE Lock to the shutter, you need to assign another button (AF-ON or AE Lock) to AF start. Not sure, though - I'd have to check.

But on my 7D, I'd often set spot metering, and I use back-button AF, so I'd center the subject, hit those two buttons (which are conviently close) to lock focus and exposure on the subject, then recompose and shoot.

Where the 1-series with AF point-linked spot metering has a big advantage is that you can take a burst with spot metering on an off-center subject, instead of just one shot.

A really BIG THANK to you Neuroanatomist for this very good answer!
These facts I found very valued to me sir now quoting you about how to make this functional that I did not know about:
"But on my 7D, I'd often set spot metering, and I use back-button AF, so I'd center the subject, hit those two buttons (which are conviently close) to lock focus and exposure on the subject, then recompose and shoot.

Where the 1-series with AF point-linked spot metering has a big advantage is that you can take a burst with spot metering on an off-center subject, instead of just one shot."

Wishing you sir All the Best and very nice week-end!


Hi Charl,

I went through the same for month and finally ordered my 600 II last week.
I use the 5D III and as backup the 5D II which I hope to trade in for a 1D X soon.
With the new AF Firmwareupdate you also can go 1200mm with the 2x for really small birds.
1DX give you the great benefit to give you spot metering on you focus points. This will get your wildlife shots a lot better, because sometimes you don´t have time for a second or third shot. And of course the frame rate. Thats the only things I miss on my 5D and they are only for 1D´s.

I use the Lowepro Flipside 500AW for transport and the 600 Lens will fit with no camera attached.
So perfect for the transport and Handluggage on a flight.

Delivery times in Germany are about 5 month at the moment.

Only pro for the 500 II was you save about 2500 EUR in Germany and save some weight. But I wasn´t sure if I would ask my self the whole time why I didn´t got the 600 II.

Good luck with whatever you order they are all the best lenses you can get.

I wish to address to you Florian a very BIG THANK for your most valued advice and the added points of the DSLRs 1DX and 5D MarkIII! --> "1DX give you the great benefit to give you spot metering on you focus points. This will get your wildlife shots a lot better, because sometimes you don´t have time for a second or third shot. And of course the frame rate. Thats the only things I miss on my 5D and they are only for 1D´s." This I did not know but it sounds really good to have this option in 1DX Florian!
Wishing you many happy shootings and great images and much joy with you excellent equipement!

All the Best to you Florian!


About the basic using of the Canon EOS 5D Mark III ( I have just made an order for Canon EOS 5D MarkIII and I am bit novice in how to make the right options for my future photography)

Firstly how can I understand the main and functional difference between manual selections of:

1 - Single-point-Spot-AF

2 - Single-point-AF

3 - Single-point Expansion AF

4 - AF Point Expansion

and with the AI Servo AF-function - which selection is the best when for example tracking BIF (Birds In Flight)?
And is the Case number five (5) or six (6) best choice to tracking a flying bird? What are you Bird Photographers using together with your Mark III DSLRs if I may ask your valued advice?

I have lenses in these Groups of A, B, C and group E.

Another importance would be - how can I choose and LOCK the right exposure value, by only using the shutter-button and NOT using the AE-Lock button in back of the camera, so it remains as I wish if I use SPOT-METERING with Single-point-Spot-AF? Is this possible? I feel that I can not really find the answer from the English manual (I am Swedish speaking natively)

Why I am asking this is, that I have noticed on my MKII when there is this option to choosing the Evaluating Exposure Measure - option, and I do "lock" the focus with the chosen center-focus-point (that I only use with my MKII) the MarkII also keeps that EXPOSURE VALUE which was in the focus-area-center and my single center-point-focus-area kind of is guiding and "locking" and keep the EV "locked" as long as I keep the shutter-button half-way pressed down and I do not release it - have you the same experience with using your MarkII and can this same option work with Mark III?

(By the way, this is not the case with my 7D that will re-estimate the exposure-value, if I change the framed selection from where I have locked-the-focus in lens, by keeping the shutter-button pressed down half-way!)
I just wonder how this using-shutter-button half-way pressed-down, will work on my not yet received 5D Mark III?
Or is this working only together with the 1DX (namely the Single-point-Spot-AF with "locked" spot-exposure value)?
Sorry if I am a bit vague here - I do not have the Mark III DSLR in my hands yet today but wish to start the learning curve in advance!

If anyone could give me some guidance - because I really wish to know HOW to make this working and NOT using the AE-Lock Button in the back of the camera!

Wishing you all All the Best!

Lenses / Re: Can a UV filter affect IQ (sharpness) on a lens?
« on: November 02, 2012, 07:35:16 AM »
The only filter that makes sense would be a polarizer and that's due to it's special purpose.  Any additional glass in the path will affect IQ.  It becomes especially apparent using longer focal lengths and lenses that are already as sharp as the Hubble Space Telecope.  In addition, the flat surfaces also tend to cause more internal reflections and ghosting, even ones that are multicoated.  Many of Canons lenses use meniscus front lenses that are slightly curved to reduce this effect.  Adding a filter on the front just defeats the engineering.

Never use a filter unless you have a specific need for it and are willing to accept some loss of IQ.


Always found strange that people invest 2000$ to get the best IQ from a lens and ruin it with a 25$ piece of cheap glass....

Just wish to add my personal experience - I purchase an almost brand new Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM and the former owner was "generous" by adding with the lens a 77mm "un-common-cheap-brand-UV-filter".
In the beginning I made the very mistake to place this filter in the end of the lens-barrel and I noticed a problem with FLARE and lack of decent contrast and somehow less colours....I then decided to NOT use any filter of any kind to this tele-lens with decent hood and saw an immediate effect of a better overall IQ in post processing when carefully examine my .CR2 RAW files before and after removing the cheap-junk-filter.

I have not attached any filter to this lens today and I am carefully using the built-in retractable lens hood with the convenience of quickly sliding the hood out/in for use/storage.

(However I am considering to buy a Nano-based slim-filter of 82mm to my Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II that I am still using without any filter so far. By the way, do anyone have a suggest what would be the best choice in order to protect the wide-angel-front-lens to this quite expensive TS-E lens?)
Wishing you a wonderful coming Week-end!

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Is this an Overkill to purchase the EOS....
« on: November 02, 2012, 07:15:22 AM »
Dear Co-Canon-DSLR-Great-Photographers in here,

A Question to all of you here in this Forum for EOS Bodies, who hopefully are today very happy and also very satisfied owners of the newest Canon EOS 5D Mark III,

Please .... I wonder if I could ask you something about your so-far-experiences-from-field-using, that I would appreciate your opinion very much and to be able to reading some of your spontaneously thoughts/experiences/impressions (specially compared to the old 5D Mark II) about,
if you do consider me to have done a reasonable wise choice to lately place an order today in order to purchase the newest Canon 5D Mark III, after months of giving this decision a constant pros and cons compared to the two DSLRs I already own that is my 5D Mark II (since August 2010) and 7D since May 2011, that I purchased around May 2011 for better reach to my EF300lenses,
by making an order today (2nd Nov 2012) for a brand new Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR?

I have been considering this purchase of the new Canon 5D Mark III, for a long long time until now - because I just see that my recent interest in trying out the - for me demanding bird-photography (I have been a bird watcher since my early age/childhood) and also in doing some macro photography under windy circumstances, and fast moving and shy butterflies, has demanded from my full frame camera (5DMark II) a much much better and faster AUTOFOCUS ability that I think the most 5D MarkII-owners sometimes lacks from their DSLRs.

(I have in the process also considered the 1DX for some time too - and the also reading about the 1D Mark IV - but then again - also doing a lot of landscape and allround photographing, including even super-wide-angel lenses; I have come to the conclusion in which I now can find rest: that a full frame DSLR is the optimal choice compared to use instead the APS-H with crop-factor 1.3 X.)

So - my simple question is - do you think, who are here reading this my simple question of some degree of doubt of my own conclusion, and who already owns and using the newest Canon 5D Mark III - maybe either pity me for such (unthinkable wrong) a purchase/investment?
or maybe you could perhaps instead giving me at least a small congratulation, to the newest technology and overall benefits by being soon (God willing) a new owner to a brand new Canon EOS 5D Mark III with the "light-leak" issue solved, during this month of November 2012 AD?

....or should I have waited instead to purchase the coming new DSLR´s, from Canon instead or even purchase the new 6D to start deliveries during the December 2012, or even going all the way to purchase the last 1DX?

(The next wish-purchase will be one of the new super-tele-lenses in order to have the right equipement for wildlife and bird photography - and therefore I will need a better AUTOFOCUS function also from a decent fullframe DSLR from Canon !)

So - do you give my thumbs up? or maybe thumbs pointing more horizontally? or maybe even having the thumb pointing all the way down, for my decision to buy the newest 5D Mark III, with for example more quiet DSLR by using the silent mode in nature or in churches etc and other nice things to be used that is NOT in the older version of 5D Mark II?

.....still feeling a bit ...semi-un-sure about my order from today!

Wishing you all - All the Best and a big THANK for every thought short or long, to you all in advance!


I believe that the better focal length fot an FF camera like 1Dx is the 600mm f/4 L IS II, especially for something so specialized as bird photography.

However, if I were to make a one life time tele choice I would pick the 500mm f/4L IS II for the less weight (3.2Kg is already enough), prιce, size andd probably - just probably - the possibility of avoiding the purchase of Wimberly equipment and making do with my Markins M20 head. But this lens wouldn't be dedicated for bird photography.

Dear Sir -  thank you for your valid point about the once-for-the-life-time super-tele-lens by picking the more easy handled Canon EF500mm f/4L IS USM II compared to EF600MM!

I will consider your advice!

Wishing you all the best sir!


Lenses / Thanks a lots - for answering my naive question!
« on: November 01, 2012, 09:55:21 AM »
I personally would go with the 600 MKII and the Canon 1DX for birds. Never used either of them but 600mm is what all the pros I aspire to use and the 1DX write up by Arthur Morris was pretty excellent.

Don't however think that good equipment will get you good photos, as a pro one advised me ' i'll take fieldcraft over reach any day'.

Have fun....

Thank you sir for your answer to me!
Yes agreed with you about the "fieldcraft" whatever it is - I am not a native English language speaker - but to my understanding it could probably or maybe have the meaning of "being able to find the birds and be at the right spot on the right time in the nature" and I think I am pretty much of that being a bird-watcher (but NOT bird photographer since my very early childhood and still hiking/walking and visiting the most famous bird-spotting-areas here near the capital of Sweden near the coast to Baltic Sea and for example seeing eagles and whopper swans quite often and all the others that will both migrate and not migrate south during the change of seasons!
Also I think - if you find something in your life that gives you joy and some degree of inspiration and pleasure - why only save money on your bankaccount? Would that money make any difference when we pass away and not even used them for something that matters to you during you few days of life time?
Anyhow - I have NOT purchased either the EF500mmII alternatively EF600mm nor the EOS 1DX nor the 5DMKIII - because I am not the man who lends money to Bill Gates!
Wishing you all the very Best!
Greetings from Europe and Sweden on this first day of November 2012!


Pages: 1 2 [3] 4