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Messages - DanThePhotoMan

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Well, my apologies, but I have never in my life heard of a "180 degree shutter rule" used by a cinematographer on any of the films I have worked on.

And I did not mean that raising the shutter speed is the sole cause of rolling shutter, but from my experiences with a DSLR it seems to make it more pronounced with the higher shutter speeds.

Technical Support / Re: MacBook Pro : Best RAW Processing Software?
« on: April 16, 2013, 01:09:26 PM »
I have both LR4 and PS6, and I enjoy using ACR7 for PS much more. I know people who feel much differently, but I believe it gives better control over an image. Granted, that's probably because I have barely used LR at all, but ACR7 has never done me wrong and produced some fantastic results.

Fantastic video. The shots on the glide cam were very well done, and a fantastic job at keeping the focus at such a shallow depth of field.

Oh, and just for future reference, the 180 degree rule has nothing to do with shutter speed. It's the imaginary line between two people cinematographers use while framing shots. For example, you wouldn't begin a scene that has two people talking with the camera positioned on their left side, and the suddenly switch from one persons POV to their right side as it would look as if they suddenly were talking to the back of the other person's head. The general rule for shutter speed if double whatever your frame rate is. Be careful with bumping up the shutter speed too much on DSLRs though, as at higher levels it can create clipping and rolling shutter, which you definitely do not want.

Great job overall though. Keep up the good work!

I haven't done any research on the 1DC, but I would be extremely skeptical that it could record an hour straight of 4k footage. I know it's a completely different body style and the internals are probably much different, but the last time I used a RED Epic on a shoot we had a problem with them overheating after just 6 minutes of continuous shooting at 4k. The same thing with the Scarlet. That's a hell of a lot of information to be putting through the sensor for that amount of time, so If you could possibly pull off one hour of continuous shooting I would certainly be surprised.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Overly Hot Hotspots On 5Dmk3
« on: March 26, 2013, 02:55:18 PM »
For the stills, I'm using ACR 7.3 to process.

I have my Auto Lighting Optimizer off, and HTP off, but I don't think that's the issue. I've done quite a bit of shooting to test those out and I haven't noticed any type of real world difference.

For the video, we were judging by the LCD on the back of both cameras as well as the monitors both cameras were plugged into. Were were shooting a bit flat with contrast and saturation turned down. mk3 was A Cam, and mk2 was B Cam both shooting ISO 640, f/5.6, and a shutter of 50. There was a lamp on the dresser, and when properly exposing for the mk3, it was waaay underexposed on the mk2. When we brightened the dimmer switch to expose for the mk2, the mk3 was so blown out it looked like a blob of light.

Again, thanks for all the responses, I appreciate ya'll taking the time out to address this.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Overly Hot Hotspots On 5Dmk3
« on: March 24, 2013, 08:17:41 PM »
Sorry, I would love to post examples but it'll be a day or two till I can get to my computer that has the files on it.

And I'm shooting in RAW. Also, Mt. Spokane, hot spots are areas that are overexposed in the shot. It may just be a video saying which I'm accustomed to, so I apologies for the confusion.

In short, it just doesn't handle highlights well at all, and the shadows are so harsh it just makes them looks worse. I have some examples I'll try and put up from a concert the other week. The singer was not lit very well and the back was pretty bright so I expected there to be a bit of a difference, but the lights in the back were so blown out that they were just smudges when I opened the files.

I know it's not very helpful unless I post pictures so I'll do that asap. Thanks for the replies thus far.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Overly Hot Hotspots On 5Dmk3
« on: March 24, 2013, 02:56:00 PM »
Hello all! This may have been addressed before so forgive me, but I'm just curious to see if anyone is noticing this on their 5Dmk3's.

I understand the 5Dmk3 doesn't have the best dynamic range, but does anyone else find hotspots to be overly hot? As an example, I was camera op on a short film the other day, and both the DP and I agreed to move to the 5Dmk2 simply because some of the things (i.e. lamps, televisions) were so drastically hot and were overexposed, where on the 5Dmk2 they were near evenly lit.

Also, I was walking around the park with a friend who had a 7D, and after comparing shots the shadows were much, much harsher on the 5Dmk3 at the same exact ISO, aperture, and shutter speed as well the whites being much hotter.

Now don't get me wrong, I love my 5D and have been blown away with it at times when I'm able to control the exposure of the subject, but I'm not really understanding why everything is so blown out at times. Is this a user error, camera error, or not an error at all and just how the camera handles?

Thanks, and I appreciate any responses.

Ok, well the quality is pretty damn good and everything was in focus, so you've got two big parts down haha.

The pacing is a little bit off though. The beginning starts off a little fast with a few quick cuts, then slows, then speeds back up, but the tempo of the music never changed. Make sure the pacing of the editing matches the tempo of the song (unless it's a stylistic choice, in which case it should be very prominent).

Also, in the majority of her closeups she was framed too far to the right, leaving too much dead space in front of her. Her chin was also cut off multiple times, which is something you want to avoid if you can. Cut an actor's forehead before you cut a chin; it looks more natural to the eye.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm going to assume the final aspect ratio was 1:2.35? I know that probably made it difficult shooting on a t3i where you have a 1:1.85 aspect ratio going on. I think using some sort of guide line on the screen may have helped. There was a screen shot of film crew for "Act of Valor" using a 5Dmk3 and they had thin lines of white tape marking their ratio. Not exactly the most professional way of going about it, but hey, it works, and that may help the framing issues.

It was good overall though, so don't let my critique let you think otherwise. I do this for a living, and those are some things I've had to learn the hard way. Hope that helped and good luck with your future projects!

It was done well, but there were a few things that could have been cleaned up/framed more properly. I don't know if you're looking for a critique or some constructive criticism, but I'll be more than happy give a few pointers if you don't mind hearing them.

I'm a huge fan of eyes that pop, so I did a little saturation adjustment for him. But yeah, basically the same as everyone else: upped contrast and clarity, and vuala!

I'll join in haha

Canon General / Re: 70-200 F2.8 mark I or mark II?!
« on: January 06, 2013, 11:51:30 AM »
Another vote here for the 70-200 IS USM II

I just bought one the other day to accompany my mkiii after much debate between the Tamron and this, and believe me when I tell you, this lens is amazing. I had been shooting with the 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM, (great lens) but my pictures took a crazy jump in every single aspect. I was definitely worried at first about the price vs performance part, but let me tell you, I am no longer worried and am glad to have invested my money in such a great lens. To quote a friend of mine, "If you don't have this lens, don't buy any other lens until you get it."

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: New to video...advice needed
« on: December 21, 2012, 09:23:05 AM »
+1 to everyone that mentioned Philip Bloom. Anything you can so many useful techniques from him.

For beginners though, I am a huge advocate for not turning down contrast, saturation, or sharpness. Unless you have the correct software for color correcting, you're really taking a risk of hurting your footage. DSLR footage holds up terribly if you push it too far in color correction, and unless you're dealing with RED or some other uncompressed footage you absolutely MUST make sure it's exposed properly as well as everything else.

A lot of people discredit youtube, but there are some phenomenal tutorial videos on there. Once you have the rule of thirds down (which I'm sure you do as a wedding photographer), get a basic understanding of the 180 and how to work around it.

And just to reiterate, keep your shutter speed half of your frame rate: 1/50 for 24fps, etc. Also, if you can get your hands on cinema tools or some other frame rate conforming software, play around with 60fps. Even if you're not a fan of slow motion, it can still be pretty fun to play around with.

And definitely make sure to have either a preset WB or custom WB setting, simply because Auto WB will adjust itself automatically during shooting if you're light source changes.

Hope this helps!

Lenses / Warranty for Lenses
« on: December 20, 2012, 07:50:14 PM »
Hello all! So the other day I purchased a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM from amazon, and I absolutely love it. However, it did not give me the option to add a warranty. Are there any third party options as far as warranties are concerned? I've searched a bit on google, but the majority that I find look slightly sketch, so I'm just wondering if anyone has experience. Thanks!


Portrait / Re: First model shoot...input pls!
« on: December 15, 2012, 04:00:55 PM »
I'm basically agreeing with every one that has commented thus far. However, if it were me, I would try to make the eyes stand out more. Maybe give them 1/3 stop more light in photoshop just in the eyes. Right now it's a great image and lit wonderfully, but it may make the close ups a bit more dynamic.

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