Messages

1

Lenses / Re: If you could only have three lenses...

« on: June 02, 2013, 10:48:18 PM »

Assuming FF, specifically 5D3:

EF 70-200 f2.8L IS Mark II
EF 24-105 f4.0L IS
EF 35 f2.0 IS

...and that new 40mm pancake body cap 

2

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Refurbished Body

« on: June 01, 2013, 12:43:35 PM »

I bought a refurbished 7D from Canon last year and have had no problms with it.  It's my understanding that these a warranty returns or open box items that have been fully tested by Canon with any parts not up to spec replaced.  I don't think they are post warranty used cameras.  Does Canon take trade-ins that would give them a stock of used cameras?

My 7D does have a small punch hole to the right of the serial number.

Canon does warranty their refurbished products for 90 days.

3

EOS Bodies / Re: Digitalrev speculates on D7100 vs. 7D2

« on: May 27, 2013, 11:58:58 AM »

I would expect high ISO raw files to be cleaner than the 7D, but not near 5D3 levels -- maybe cut the difference in half.

But, I would agree that the advertised high ISO improvement would bw with the JPEG processing.  If they simply replaced the two DIGIC 4's with one or two DIGIC 5+ processors, we should see a full stop improvement in cleaner JPEG processing.

Ultimately, I'm hoping the wait has been for a reason and will be worthwhile.  Canon must know that 7D users want cleaner high ISO images more than a higher megapixel sensor or even faster FPS.  So I'm optimistice that they have been spending this time developing a new sensor.

Still, I went for the 5D3 a few months ago and I'm waiting for another Canon refurb sale to pick up a second body (hopefully, this fall).  Admittedly, I don't want the 7D2 to come close to matching the 5D3 high ISO IQ.  If I invest in the second 5D3 body, I don't want to be tempted into investing in a 7D2 body next year. 

Which could be another reason why Canon is waiting until next year for the introduction.  If the 7D2 is close to the 5D3 in IQ, give the 5D3 two years of sales, then temp 5D3 owners with a cheaper alternative to the 1Dx.  I won't go back to crop unless the IQ improves significantly -- regardles of the FPS.

4

Lenses / Re: What other lenses for my 60D

« on: May 13, 2013, 09:33:55 PM »

I own both the 60D and the 7D.  Best two lenses for these bodies are the 17-55 f2.8 IS and the 70-200 f2.8L IS II.  Of course, this all depends upon what you shoot.  Of the three that you suggest, I highly recommend the 17-55 f2.8.

So, what if you move to FF?  If you're considering such a move soon, then consider the 6D with the 24-105 f4.  This is the "FF counterpart" to the 60D and 17-55 f2.8, only better -- better low light, better color, greater focal range.

(FWIW I recently added a 5D3 with the 24-105 to my kit.  I don't regret having the 17-55 that can only be used on the crop bodies, it makes a good backup system to my 5D3 if I need it.  It also makes a good system for my daughter and potential apprentice who's interest in photography is growing.  More importantly, for the past year that I've owned the 17-55, I got images that would not have recorded with a slower lens.)

The 24-105 is often a great buy as a kit, anywhere from $200-300 less than buying it solo.  Buy it now and you'll spend a few hundred extra in preparation for the move to FF.

So if you plan to use the 60D for a while, then get a lens that works well with the 60D, you'll get more use out of the 60D.  The 24-105 is a good lens on the 60D/7D, if you don't need the wide end and always shoot in lots of light.  But, the extra stop of the 17-55 is big asset.  If you move to FF, you can sell the 17-55.  Sure, you may lose some money in the process, but it should be a near wash compared to the higher cost of the 24-105 solo (assuming this is your lens of choice for FF).

Also, for price, consider the Canon refurbished store.

5

EOS Bodies / Re: AF "Cases" for use with Dance Photography

« on: May 07, 2013, 10:41:21 PM »

I shoot figure skating with a 5D3 and a 70-200 f2.8L II.  There's a lot of erratic motion with change of direction and varying speeds.  Sometimes there's a single skater, sometimes several.  Case 5 is supposed to be for sports like skating, but I find that Case 2 is more effective, especially if there are several skaters and I trying to get shots of one in particular.  Case 2 is better at staying locked on the skater when others get in the way.

I also shoot single point with 9 point expansion and AI Servo.  When using expansion with Case 2, the key is to lock on your subject with the center focus point.  The surrounding expansion points will then help stay locked if the center point moves off the subject.

6

EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II in 2013? [CR2]

« on: May 06, 2013, 05:12:57 PM »

I bought my 5D3 a couple months ago with a bit of fear that I'd regret it if the 7D2 became available this summer with a significant boost in high ISO IQ.  It didn't take long to realize that the 5D3 can do a lot more than the 7D, except in the burst mode department.  (But, the 5D3 isn't shabby at burst.)

For the past year, the 7D was my primary camera.  I couldn't imagine doing without the extra reach.  Now all that has changed.  The high ISO and color depth of the 5D3 has relegated my 7D to backup status.

I really hope Canon does introduce a new king of the crop body cameras.  But, I'll be watching for refurb and rebate price deals to replace my 7D with another 5D3 body.

Funny.  For about a year, I was glued to CR for new updates on the 7D2.  I'm not so glued anymore.

7

Lenses / Re: Canon 24 - 105 for event photography?

« on: May 05, 2013, 10:22:15 PM »

That all depends on how you shoot events and the size of the events.

I prefer to be the fly on the wall and stay in the background.  Generally, I like to capture candid moments and zero in on a single person or a small group.  My most used lens by far is the 70-200 f2.8L Mark II.  This is great lens for events.  It was my most used event lens on my 7D and now, with the 5D3, it is even more valuable.  The 70mm could be a little tight in small venues (like school gym size) on a crop body, but the 70-200 range is very useful on the 5D3.

The 24-105 f4.0L is my second "must have" FF event lens.  It does everything that the 70-200 can't do.  It's great for close quarters, large group shots, and "establishing" shots that highlight the scope of a given event.  I particularly like the IS because it opens the door to more creative slow shutter where some motion blur is desired.

8

Lenses / Re: One lens for vacation

« on: April 18, 2013, 02:25:25 AM »

Dumb questions.

Is the difference between the 24-105 and the 24-70 II more than just an extra stop of speed with shallower DOF?

For vacation shots with a variety of subjects, including relatively still ones, could the IS on the 4.0 lens outweigh the benefits of the extra stop on the 24-70?

I know, the extra speed of the 2.8 24-70 offers cleaner action shots for it allows faster shutter speeds without having to push the ISO ceiling of the 5D3.  But, that ceiling is pretty high.

On the flip side, the IS on the 24-105 opens the door to whole new world of slow shutter speed creativity without a tripod.  A slow shutter speed can blur the movement of a crowd behind a relatively stationary subject.  Capturing the movement of water over rocks in a stream is another example.

9

Lenses / Re: 2 filters jammed together

« on: April 12, 2013, 02:56:23 AM »

This will be tough with the rotating polarizer.  For stuck filters, try a filter wrench:

http://www.amazon.com/Camera-Filter-62mm-77mm-Filters-Package/dp/B003TOWNT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365749733&sr=8-1&keywords=lens+filter+wrench

Or a dental dam from Micro-Tools.com:

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-2143/5in-x-5in-Dental-Dam-For-Removing-Stuck-Lenses-And-Knobs.aspx

Or both.

10

Lenses / Re: 24-105L or 70-200L f/2.8?

« on: April 09, 2013, 12:52:42 AM »

I have both lenses with a 5D3 and a 7D.  I shoot mostly sports and indoor events.  The 70-200 is my prefered lens for most of what I shoot.  The sports part is easy.  But even with candids, I like to shoot from across the room and this lens is great.

But, the 24-105 is still essential.  It sounds like you want both at some point.  Get the 24-105 now, it's only costing you $630 as part of the kit.  Getting it later will cost you closer $1,000.  Plus, I suspect this lens will fill much of your current needs with the automotive shots.

FWIW, I often carry the 5D3 with the 70-200 and the 40 pancake when I "travel lite-ish".

11

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?

« on: April 06, 2013, 12:14:54 PM »

I don't follow hockey, but would recognize the Wild, the Gophers, and the old North Stars.  I grew up here in the 60's and "north star" means hockey, not a light in the sky.  Your nickname made me suspect Minnesota, but it was this from your April 4 post that gave it away.

A couple shots from the Minnesota HS state hockey tournament....both through the glass...70-200ii

You have a knack for capturing the moment.  I particularly like the shot with the player in the black jersey seemingly levitating above the ice.  How much of this do you credit to timing vs. a capture from a 12 fps burst.

Most of my sports action has been with a 7D.  8 fps is nice, but I can't rely on it in figure skating.  When you start photographing skaters in jumps, you realize that 80-90% of their air time is less than flattering when frozen in time.  8 fps isn't fast enough to reliable capture that prize moment.

12

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?

« on: April 05, 2013, 04:30:30 PM »

Northstar, thanks for sharing the details and for the discussion.  I found it quite valuable.

I like using the monopod for shooting 90 minute figure skating exhibitions where I can shoot from one of the hockey player boxes.  I can't say that it really helps sharpen the image vs. hand-held.  But, after about a half hour of constant tracking of skaters, some fatigue sets in and the monopod makes it easier for me to track skaters while constantly following with the zoom ring.  For other indoor school sports, like basketball and volleyball, I free hand it.  A monopod would get in the way.

FYI, small world.  That local rink that I shoot at isn't far from the Xcel Center.

13

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?

« on: April 05, 2013, 11:47:24 AM »

I think we offer more than our opinions.  We share our experiences, our understanding of the technologies, and our resources that form these opinions.  This is why I like this forum.

I've heard the IS/VR has no affect at speeds above 1/500 argument before.  But, this never made sense to me.

My experience has been heavily influenced decades ago by trying to get sharp images with an FTb-n and an FD 80-210 f4.0.  1/500 just wasn't fast enough to reliably eliminate camera shake.  Consequently, I equated the "turn VR/IS off after 1/500" as "1/500 is fast enough to eliminate shake" debate.

More recently, I've taken photos of still subjects (people posing)  with small primes including the 40 f2.8.  According to the reciprocal rule,  1/80 of a second should be more than fast enough to eliminate camera shake.  But, group photos of my kid's volleyball team at 1/80 just aren't nearly as sharp as ones taken at 1/800.  Similare phots taken with IS lenses at 1/80 were tack sharp. 

Thanks to Northstar's link to Scott Kelby's comments on VR, I did more digging on the technical limitations of VR and IS.  I can see where 1/500 does represent the upper limit of VR lenses, but I'm still in search of that limit for Canon's IS lenses.  (Sure wish Canon would address how best to use IS on it's lenses, which I suspect may vary with the lens.)

Most of my action experience with the 70-200 f2.8 has been with a 7D in poorly lit ice rinks and gyms.  (Sadly, the rinks don't often use all the lights for figure skating, but they turn them all on for hockey.)  I've rarely been able to shoot above 1/640 and most often shoot at 1/500, not fast enough to feel I didn't need IS.  So, I've been eager to learn of the experience of professional Canon shooters.

The post of Jon Willey was most informative, just the kind of first-hand experience that I was seeking.  Thanks for posting it.  What was missing in the interview was typical shutter speed range.  What's the slowest Willey feels comfortable with?  I can't say that I've ever experienced the IS "jump" to which he referred.  This does make me wonder if this is more an issue with the big lenses and not so much with the 70-200.

I've recently purchased a 5D3 and can now shoot closer to 1/1000 at the rink.  Thanks to this discussion, I'm compelled to experiment more with IS on and off.  At the rink, I do shoot with a monopod (and IS on) and believe it has helped sharpen my images.  But, I don't have concrete evidence (haven't really tried side by side comparisons).

Northstar, about those hockey shots, do you recall the shutter speed?  Were you hand-held or monopod (or something else)?

14

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?

« on: April 05, 2013, 03:05:06 AM »

Great shots, Northstar!  Having spent countless hours trying capture figure skating, I can appreciate everything that went into these shots, particularly the timing.  Was this with your 1Dx or 5D3?

Back to the IS question.  When to use IS is still a hotly debated topic.  I suspect the real answer is “it depends.”  It may depend on the focal length, the body (FF or crop), the subject matter, and/or the manufacturer.

In this thread, we are considering a T2i with the EF 70-200 f2.8L USM IS II. 

First, I still contend that 1/500 isn't fast enough to eliminate camera blur while shooting hand held action shots with a 200 mm lens on a crop body, which magnifies image movement over that of a FF body.

Second, Nikon's VR and Canon's IS are different systems with different algorithms.  Canon pioneered lens-based image stabilization in 1995.  Nikon played catch-up in 2000.  Canon starts stabilizing the image when the shutter is pressed half-way, before focus is locked.  Nikon initiates when the shutter button is pressed half-way, but does a “recenter” action just before the shutter is tripped.  Nikon uses a sampling rate of 1000Hz (1/1000 sec) which means it's only accurate to half that speed, or 1/500 sec.  This supports Scott Kelby's advice to turn off VR when shooting at or above 1/500.  It also supports the notion that VR can get in the way of rapid burst sports bodies.

However, Kelby was talking about Nikon's VR, not Canon's IS. 
 
[Here's more detail on Nikon's VR system http://www.bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm]

Canon hasn't published it's sampling frequency and Canon officially states that it's IS system is designed to aid the focus system even at high speeds.  When asked about using IS for photographing skiing with high shutter speeds, Canon's Chuck Westfall, says leave it on http://digitaljournalist.org/issue1002/tech-tips.html (see 8th question).

The Digital Picture's forum includes a more detailed response from Canon on this subject [from
http://community.the-digital-picture.com/showthread.php?t=5279]:

Canon does not quote the sampling frequency for its Image Stabilizer mechanisms. Also, Canon does not recommend users to avoid using IS at fast shutter speeds. The visual effects of IS in captured images diminish as the shutter speed increases over 1/focal length, but the use of IS for moving subjects in these conditions can be beneficial because it presents a steadier image to the camera's AF detection mechanism.

We can can confirm that it takes about a half second for Image Stabilization to become operational with most IS-equipped EF and EF-S lenses. Even so, Image Stabilization is a useful tool for many photographic applications including bird photography at high shutter speeds. However, like any other tool, it requires good technique on the part of the user for best results. Additionally, some photographers may prefer to shut it off at least occasionally depending on their shooting style. Bottom line, it makes no sense to declare that IS is either "all good" or "all bad" when it comes to bird photography. Use it when you need it, and for best results, let it come up to speed before you release the shutter.

Incidentally, it is not necessarily true that IS must be shut off and re-engaged when AF is shut off and re-engaged. IS can operate independently from AF through Custom Function control. On current EOS models, for instance, Custom Function IV-1-2 allows IS to be operated by the shutter release and AF to be operated by the AF-ON button. Using this method, IS remains active for several seconds after pressing the shutter button halfway while disengaging and then reengaging AF.

Canon IS and Nikon VR do not share the same operational principles, so this question cannot be answered as written. The IS specifications mentioned in "EF Lens Work III" refer to the degree of lens movement, not the sampling frequency of the gyro sensors.

Back to the question of IS on for hockey with a T2i.  The T2i FPS rate is 3.7 and likely too slow for image stabilization to impede it's rate (if Canon's IS would do so).  This leaves us with two questions.  Is there a shutter speed limit with Canon's IS such that faster speeds do nothing to further steady the image?  Is there a shutter speed and/or frame rate that will “fight” with Canon's IS system and impede focus lock?

Sadly, Canon's official documentation and lens user manuals do not answer either of these questions.  I have found nothing definitive from Canon or specifically about Canon's IS system that supports the notion that it's IS is not effective beyond 1/500 second or will degrade focus lock at higher speeds.

While I still think it's best to leave IS on with high shutter speeds – that it won't hurt and may help – I'd still like a more definitive answer from Canon.  With a 70-200 on a T2i at 1/500, I still say leave it on (in Mode 2).  At 1/1000, it may not matter.  In between, good question.

15

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?

« on: April 04, 2013, 11:01:25 AM »

$336 is a good price for the T2i, congrats.

Regarding IS, leave it on and in mode 2.  According to Chuck Westfall, IS provides a steady image that helps the camera lock on to focus.

Also, remember the reciprocal rule of thumb for film/FF bodies.  On average, the minimum safe hand-held shutter speed is the reciprocal of the focal length.  This general assumes a stationary subject and a stationary  photographer who is bracing the camera in some fashion (typically with how they hold the camera).  For sports, the photographer is moving the camera to shoot.  I would suggest a shutter speed 2-4 times faster would be necessary to eliminate camera movement from the equation.

A 200mm lens on a crop body is effectively a 320 (when compared to FF).  The minimum safe shutter speed for stationary subjects would be 1/320.  For sports, 2-4 times faster would be 1/640-1/1280.  But, it is still possible that a moving camera (as with tracking the action) could impart some blur even at 1/1000 of a second.

I shoot in similar situations and lighting with the same lens and similar body.  Shooting at 1/1000 indoor could be challenge.  Don't be afraid to shoot above ISO 3200.   Also, leave the IS on, it may help and won't hurt.

Regarding the T2i (or any non-7D crop) and hockey.  Use AI SERVO and center point focusing.  But, understand what AI SERVO does.  It does NOT read the exact focus at the time that the shutter fires.  Instead, it tracks the speed and direction of movement and predicts what the focus will be when it fires.  This means that it might take a second to get accurate focus and it can be fooled when the subject changes direction.  The 7D has a processor dedicated for focusing to keep up.  The other crop bodies do not.

When shooting hockey, get in the habit of letting up on the shutter when the subject changes direction.  When you again press half way, the camera will start over with the tracking and won't be fooled by the previous direction of the subject.  I've had lots of OOF shots with my 60D because of this.

Last note regarding ISO.   This sounds counterintuitive, but it's better to overexpose at 6400 than underexpose at 3200.  Noise happens when pixels are starved for light.  Overexposing (1/3 to 2/3 stops) helps prevent this and the exposure can be fixed in post.  Experiment with ISO.  If you doubt shooting this high, experiment with some, then go back to comfort ISO.  1600 was my comfort zone max until I started experimenting, now I routinely shoot between 2000 and 4000.

Good luck.