April 16, 2014, 01:17:41 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - FTb-n

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 12
Lenses / Re: Variable length zooms and dust
« on: December 22, 2012, 06:59:17 PM »
Some lenses, such as the 17-55 f2.8, also have vents near the base of the filter threads.  Using a filter on these lenses can help reduce dust ingestion.  which begs the question, "why put vents where filters can defeat them?" 

For what it's worth, on my 17-55 I don't feel any additional resistance with the filter in place.  This lens does have a bit of resistance between 28 and 35 mm range when zooming, but I don't think its vacuum related.  This is one of those things that feels huge when playing with the lens, but you forget about it when using it and you're more focused (no pun intended) on getting the shot.

Lenses / Re: help!! 40mm f/2.8 or 50mm f/1.4?
« on: December 16, 2012, 08:08:40 PM »
So many lenses...so many decisions...good luck with yours.  Let us know what you end up getting.

Lenses / Re: help!! 40mm f/2.8 or 50mm f/1.4?
« on: December 16, 2012, 06:16:10 PM »
I have the 50 1.8, 35 2.0, and the 40 2.8 that I use on crop bodies (60D and 7D).  Of these I prefer the 40 2.8.  It's sharp wide open, relatively quiet, and so small.

The 35 2.0 is a nice lens on crop bodies and sometimes the extra stop helps.  But, you have to stop it down to 2.8 to match the 40 2.8 wide open.  The same is true for the 50 1.4.  It's quite soft at 1.4 and doesn't match 40 until you stop the 50 down to 2.8.


If you already have the 50 1.8, there's little benefit in going to the 50 1.4 unless you really need the extra stop and are ok with softer images at 1.4.

The 40 offers you something different than what you have and it's a great little walk around lens.  I'm betting this a lens that you'll keep as you upgrade bodies in the future.

If you're hoping for both, consider the 40 2.8 and the 85 1.8.  The 85 1.8 would give you a nice portait lens (when you find models) and a very good low light telephoto lens for crop bodies -- good for indoor sports and events.  (It's one that I seriously considered before taking the plunge with the 70-200 2.8L Mark II).

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 7D: 'I need a Must Have's List'
« on: December 15, 2012, 01:31:52 AM »
+1 on the locking mode button -- funny how often I grab the 7D, take a shot and find that the mode button has migrated to Bulb.

As for that dream kit built around the 60D and 7D (although I might prefer two future 7DII's):

- EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS w/hood (generic) w/Hoya HD clear: Use this on your 60D
- EF 70-200 f2.8L IS Mark II w/hood w/Hoya HD clear: Mostly on the 7D
- EF 40 f2.8 pancake
- 430EX flash
- ThinkTank Digital Holster 20 for 60D/17-55
- ThinkTank Digital Holster 30 for 7D/7-200
- ThinkTank Pro Speed Belt

...and when all this is too much to carry:
- PowerShot S100 (currently $250 at Amazon)
- Tamrac 5686 pouch

28-700?  Where can I find this lens?

Are you looking only for UV protective filters or UV and clear protective filters?

EOS Bodies / Re: First Round of EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:20:32 AM »
I know, a 2 stop boost in high ISO noise reduction is a lot to ask for.

Regarding the noise reduction benefit of the 5D3 vs. 7D, I was definitely looking at the JPEGs and have looked at DPReview's comparison tool.  In a way, I'd take it as good news that the difference is less than two stops since I don't want to spend the money on a 5D3.

I've also looked at the Image Resource's Comparometer (link below).  I don't know if they use in-camera JPEGs or RAW converted by software.  But, to me, the 5D3 at 25600 looks better than the 7D at 6400, but not as good as the 7D at 3200 -- roughly 2 1/2 stops.  Now, I suspect this is a controlled test and real world results may not be as significant.  So, it helps to hear from those with hands on experience.


EOS Bodies / Re: Will the 6D have video AF
« on: November 27, 2012, 07:49:43 PM »
My guess is that video AF will be one way for Canon to keep the crop bodies distinct from the full frame bodies.  Look for it in the 7D2.  Maybe a better system than the T4i. 

I fear that video AF will be the "big" thing in the new 7D2 instead of better low light performance.  Given a choice, I'd rather have the latter.

EOS Bodies / Re: First Round of EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: November 27, 2012, 07:45:12 PM »
I only want two things in the 7D2.  Less noise at higher ISO -- ideally a 2 stop boost.  And a locking mode dial.  More AF points and higher FPS would be nice pluses, but not necessary for me.

The one feature that intrigues me about the 5D3 is it's performance in low light.  Based on researching online reviews, I estimate the benefit to be about 3 stops over the 7D (and my 60D).  So, I've dreamed about swapping my 60D/17-55 2.8 IS for the 5DIII/24-105 4L IS -- a logical upgrade path.
I would be losing a stop on the lens for a net gain of 2 stops in low light performance.

Now, if the 7D2 offered that 2 stop boost, I wouldn't need the 5D3 -- which is why I fear that the 7D2 will only have a modest boost in low light performance.  Granted, the 5D3 offers sharper images and deeper color, but I suspect its low light advantage is a key reason that many consider it to be the logical upgrade for a 7D.  Canon may want to preserve this path.

I do think that Canon will position the 7D2 to be the king of crop bodies.  This means more MP, maybe more FPS, and better video -- better than the consumer bodies.  I suspect this is why the 5D3 and the 6D lack the STM video focus benefits of the T4i.  Canon may be saving a better video focus system for the 7D2.  However, I doubt that the 7D2 will get the articulating screen simply because it lessens the durability factor.

I hope I'm wrong.  I don't really care about the video improvements.  All I want is better low light performance -- and a locking mode dial.

Lenses / Re: Lens recommendation -newborn shoot
« on: November 06, 2012, 01:16:02 AM »
My only advice is USM or the new STM.  When my kids were that young, my noisy EF 50 1.8 and Tamron lenses often spoiled the moment.

Lenses / Re: Can a UV filter affect IQ (sharpness) on a lens?
« on: November 02, 2012, 03:28:49 PM »
The Hoya HMC will degrade image quality.  That's why I switched to the Hoya HD Clear filters.  They are tough and very easy to clean.  Given the cost of the filter, I wanted to know if it was worth it.  I did some testing with and without it and I don't see any degredation of IQ.  My 70-200 f2.8L II can be glare-prone (but not as bad as the Mark I), but the filter doesn't add any glare of it's own.

Lenses / Re: Hoya UV filters
« on: November 02, 2012, 03:18:42 PM »
Skip the Hoya HMC.  The Hoya Pro1 is good, but not great.  The Hoya HD s exceptional.  It's tough, very easy to clean, and doesn't degrade IQ.  Specifically, I recommend the Hoya HD Clear (don't need the UV).  I use them on my 17-55 and 70-200L.   BHPhoto.com has them.  The 58mm is $35 and the 77mm is $55.  $55 is a good price, it often hovers near $70 -- which is what I paid and, yes, worth the price.

I was in the same boat, but I've since sworn off shoulder bags.  They simply get to be too much for the migraine sensitive neck muscles and always seem to swing around at the wrong time.  For events and travel sightseeing, I use ThinkTank holsters.  The weight around the waist is a lot easier to handle and I can slide them around the belt to gain access or get them out of the way.  For many events, I always seem to use the same camera most of the time.  The holster approach gives me the option leaving the almost always empty holster at home (or in the car).

Specifically, I use a ThinkTank Digital Holster 30 v2.0 for my 7D and 70-200 f2.8L II with hood in shooting position.  No more need for the lens cap.  For my 60D and 17-55 f2.8 with hood in shooting position, I use the Digital Holster 20 v2.0.  This bag can also handle a longer lens.  I use these bags on ThinkTank's Pro Speed Belt.  One word of warning, these belts run a little big and seem to stretch a bit during the first few events.  On rare events when I want a flash or a small prime, I add a small utility bag to the belt.

This is a very flexible solution and the lowest profile that I could find.  Of course, they do scream "camera inside".  Some food for thought if you're open to alternative solutions.

My most memorable bodies (all dates approximate):

1970: Kodak Instamatic
1974: Used school's Yashica Mat-124G for a year
1974: Argus C3 (very used)
1975: Canon FTb-n black body (my sentimental favorite)
1975: Rollie 35 (the "Elph" of the 35mm before Minox got into the game)
1979: Mamiya 645 1000s
1980: Canon AE-1 (got 3 of these as refurbished cameras)
1982: Polaroid SX-70
1985: Canon FTb-n (used silver body)
1990: Canonet  G-III QL17 (got 2 of these silent shutter wonders)
1995: Canon Rebel G
2000: Kodak 2mp (first digital)
2003: Canon G3
2006: Canon Rebel XT
2011: Canon 60D
2012: Canon 7D

Plus, there have been a handful of point-n-shoot 35mm rangefinders and digitals throughout the years.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?
« on: October 31, 2012, 09:22:54 PM »
Yes, I was refering to the tripod ring that comes with the 70-200L.

I do use a Bogen (now Manfrotto) quick release tilt head on my mono-pod so I can tilt down and up.  The tilt and the quick release work well for me.  This is a personal preference thing.  Some prefer mounting the lens tripod ring directly to the mono-pod without a head.  You'll have to figure out which works best for you.  (But, be wary of the ball mount.  It never stays put when shooting action.)


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?
« on: October 31, 2012, 02:03:05 PM »
I shoot a lot of figure skating in hockey rinks with a 7D and a 70-200 f2.8L II.  Several random tips:

1. Shoot RAW or JPG, but not RAW+JPG.  The latter will burn your buffer.

2. If shooting JPG (I often do), use custom white balance.  Try taking your WB shot off the white boards.  In some rinks, setting WB to white fluorescent will also work.  Don't rely on AWB.

3. Set ISO from 3200 to 6400.  Your 5DIII can handle this with greater ease than my 7D.  Go for shutter speeds above 1/500, closer 1/1000.   A little noise is better than motion blur.

4. If you have noise to deal with, use NoiseNinja to clean it up.

5. Set your 70-200 IS to pan mode 2 and use a mono-pod with the lens' collar mount.  I once believed I didn't need the IS or added support with fast shutter speeds, but every little bit helps.  Plus, the 5DII/70-200 2.8L is heavy.  Fatigue will set in when hand-holding for a while.  The mono-pod takes the weight for you and makes it far easier change focus points or other camera settings on the fly.  I shoot a lot of sports without a mono-pod, but with figure skating, I find it invaluable particularly for the fatigue factor.

6. I assume that the 5DIII has focus point expansion, use it.  With the 7D, it helps with tracking.  Use AI Servo mode.

7. Don't be afraid of f2.8 with your 70-200 II.  It's very sharp.  But, you may want to move the focus point around so it's at face level.  Just keep it on something with contrast (and not solid color jerseys).  Be aware that 2.8 isn't very forgiving on out-of-focus shots.

8.  Shoot in manual and find an ISO/shutter speed/f-stop combination that works.  Lighting is likely to be somewhat consistent throughout the rink.  You may end up bumping the shutter speed up and down a bit as players move in and out of dark spots.  Trust your eye and periodically check the preview.  But, don't rely on an auto exposure mode.

9. Avoid shooting through the Plexiglas.  Since shooting from the players box means the players are skating away from you, this likely means shooting from the top of the stands.

10. Practice.  Practice.  Practice.

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 12