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Messages - Zv

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This is great news, only I'm left wondering - it's already Feb and so far in this "year of the lens" we've got two Tamron superzooms and a Sigma 50 Art on the way. So, where's the Canon lenses we were told about??

Lighting / Re: 600EX-RT Manual Question
« on: February 05, 2014, 07:30:11 AM »
The feature you want to use is apparently a mode called "individual slave" but it is only available when using Canon's older "optical" remote triggering system. Maybe you can use that instead?

Not really I think if he has a RC-6 you can trigger the camera to fire and it should fire the flashes along with it.

What I do is use a Yongnuo YN603 on camera hotshoe with remote shutter cable attached. Then I have another YN603 in my hand that triggers everything. With all Yongnuo speedlites it is simple as pie. No other triggers needed for the YN560III as the trigger is built in.

Lighting / Re: 600EX-RT Manual Question
« on: February 05, 2014, 02:22:54 AM »
Let me just get my head around this one. So you have multiple flashes all in manual and you're triggering them via a third party remote trigger on your camera? What kind is it btw?

Then you want to be able to change the power setting for the off camera flash and fire the shutter remotely using the speedlite or remote control? But it wont let you change the power? That's strange.

Is it in slave mode? If using wireless triggers you need to keep the speedlite in normal mode i.e not slave mode. This can cause issues off camera. That could explain why you need to put in on the hotshoe to change the power.

Photography Technique / Re: Focusing
« on: February 03, 2014, 08:24:59 AM »
BBF - love it. Once focus is acquired you can sit relaxed and wait for that perfect shot and still be ready if something crosses your path. It's a street shooter's best buddy.

For AI Servo it's a must. You can be constantly tracking something without firing a shot. (Technically the half shutter press method can too but how long can you hold your finger there before it cramps up?).

Oh and you never have to touch the AF/MF switch ever again. It's always in MF until you press the AF-On button.

Photography Technique / Re: Question for Wedding Professionals
« on: February 02, 2014, 11:02:49 PM »
To get more dof in your shots you might be better off using a 35mm lens. The 35 IS is a really good option for low light. Otherwise you could also use a monopod to stabilize your camera.

Choose an ISO limit and work around it. For weddings you'll not want to go much higher than 3200. With the 6D you could prob push it a bit more but additional lighting is the way to go if you want to retain a high quality look. You might want to keep one flash on camera for bounce and fill shots. Get creative with another flash off camera as an accent light / backlight. This is where you start to realize that you need an assistant. You can't be composing a shot and setting up the lighting at the same time. Weddings are hectic and you need a flexible set up.

If you're not the main shooter you could get by with just 6D + 24-70 + flash.

Software & Accessories / Re: Changing over to Arca Swiss HELP!!!
« on: February 02, 2014, 10:07:19 PM »
Look around for a used RRS L plate. I got mines about half price. The thing is solid so lightly used makes no difference.

Lighting / Re: Benefits of a 600RT system ...
« on: February 02, 2014, 06:04:51 AM »
Just wondering how does my 430EX-II fit into the system now. Will it work with the RT System or will I have to limit it as an optical slave?

The 430EX II will fit in nicely...if you need a paperweight or a doorstop.  :o

I just picked up my second 600EX-RT during the recent Adorama $420 sale.  Now I'm experimenting with different two and three flash set-ups including my 430EXII.  I can use the 430 as a third flash if I use the 600 as an optical master.  I have an OC Gear 32' ETTL cable, so can use my "on-camera" master, off-camera as Syl Arena describes in his book.  This works pretty well, essentially giving me the ability to actually use the master to provide more than fill light.  Of course, including the 430 means I can't use the superior radio triggering with all its advantages. 

Eventually, I'll get a third 600EX and either a ST-E3-RT or the Yongnuo equivalent, but I'll work with what I have for now.  I'll hang onto my 430EXII to use on-camera when I want to bounce flash and don't want to mess with multiple speedlites.

Thanks ... That was my impression also. I've sold the 430ex earlier today. I will get another 600 if the need arises.

In this day and age of built in radio tx the 430 EX II is starting to look less useful. Unless you only use one flash in ETTL on camera only, it kinda blows. Been thinking about selling mine too. My Yongnuo flashes are just way more useable.

Lenses / Re: zooms vs primes for landscape
« on: February 01, 2014, 09:21:36 AM »
I've been seeing a lot of neg. reviews on the 17-40 L? Is it really that bad?

I don't think it is. Some people have high expectations. For the price, on FF, there isn't really much else. Knowing the limitations of the lens and using it at the optimal focal lengths and apertures helps a lot. If you buy it for 40mm f/4 ability you will prob feel let down. If you shoot at 17mm f/8 you might be pleased with the results.

I upgraded from a 7D and EF-S 10-22 and in comparison to that I find the 17-40L sharper and with better contrast. The IQ is better than my 24-105L for sure. Maybe I have a good copy? Maybe my 24-105 is a poor copy? Who knows. In the end it gets the job done and that's all that matters.

Lenses / Re: Lens filters or not?
« on: January 31, 2014, 11:26:23 AM »
And here we go again with another round of filter debate.

Use them. Don't use them. The difference is negligible. I think the general rule is to always use a high quality one if you can.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 7D Mark II in Q2? [CR1]
« on: January 31, 2014, 09:18:17 AM »
This is another useless CR1 7D2 thread to add to the already existing ones...

I wasn't thinking quite that harshly but I was thinking along the same lines. Nothing new people, just another "look 7D2" moment lol

I came to this thread to post the exact same thing. Only to find others that are already thinking the same thing. Another 7D2 CR1. When is this charade going to end? One day I will wake up, read CR and be genuinely shocked that a 7D2 has been announced! That day will be legendary!

We hope and wait ....

Lighting / Re: Benefits of a 600RT system ...
« on: January 30, 2014, 09:05:08 PM »
Many people who use flash to overpower sunlight with a modifier like a softbox that costs a couple of stops of light find they need to use 2-4 Speedlites in that soft box to get sufficient power.

My experience is that even a single speedlite helps a lot, esp. when @max zoom setting and not being shot in hss mode - you've then got the data to raise the shadows in post, even if it's a bit of work.

How does max zoom on the flash head help if the flash is firing inside a softbox?

Also, when you talk about 'raising the shadows' it sounds to me like you're talking about using flash for fill, whereas I'm talking about overpowering the ambient, e.g., using strobe as key and sun as fill (part or all).  Yes, a single Speedlite can work for fill, even in a softbox. However, as you say, you need to avoid HSS, and knocking bright sun down to 1/200 or 1/250 s means a narrow aperture (not usually desirable in outdoor portraiture) or an ND filter - either of which means you need even more light from the flash.

Yup. We're talkin f/16 through a softbox in the middle of the day. That takes a lot of juice. For the cost of even one additional 600 EXRT speedlite it's cheaper to go with the strobes and battery pack or monoblock.

Then again ganging 3 YN 560 III  speedlites together and fire through an umbrella is also pretty cheap and portable. That's my solution.

Lenses / Re: Why aren't new lenses weather sealed?
« on: January 30, 2014, 08:51:11 AM »
I guess its more a wish...

But I was looking at a friends Nikon 50mm f/1.4 G lens and that at least has a rubber gasket to stop dust entering your camera... The Canon 50mm f/1.4 hasn't got one  :(

The 50 1.4 is a design from the early 90s era! Hardly qualifies as "new". 

Lenses / Re: zooms vs primes for landscape
« on: January 30, 2014, 08:44:55 AM »
Zooms are versatile, primes are not.

Depends on the lens and what you mean by versatile. A fast prime lens is versatile as it can shoot in low light and offer a shallow dof compared with a slow zoom lens. A prime lens with IS is even more versatile!

Surapon - you should do whatever makes you happy. If you have the money then yeah why not. I would. How many cameras is too much? Pah! One for each day off the week I say!

I get what Dylan777 is saying. To get the best from the camera you're better off using native lenses. But you can also use your Canon glass as a little bonus, no harm!

I wouldn't sell your 5D3 and replace it with the Sony A7r. They serve different purposes. One for things that move and one for things that don't!

Personally, I think this may be (flame on and ready folks) Sony's swan song in a way. Their last ditch effort of a partially sinking ship. I really hope I'm wrong as I love Sony products but all evidence is pointing to a financial meltdown. I think they released these bodies too early in a "give it all she's got Scotty" kinda way. They're marvelous yes but there is little support and shaky confidence that it will be available in the not too distant future.

At the same time Canon are taking their sweet time. Why? Because they can afford to!

Photography Technique / Re: Tips for using CPL
« on: January 30, 2014, 01:07:55 AM »
I'm new to CPL. Bought a decent one (b+w xs-pro 82mm) and tried it the other day.  I rotated the front such that my foreground appeared more saturated with less glare. What I noticed was that the sky was partially/unevenly darkened. I was not using an ultrawide lens. I was at 24mm. The sun was more or less over my right shoulder, 90 degrees to my camera axis. How can I saturate the sky more evenly? I'm sure it's a matter of technique and not a fault of my CPL, and I'm hoping someone could shed some light. Thanks for your help.

It's uneven because the area near the sun will naturally be brighter. Nothing much you can do except shoot at a different time of day. GND will not solve the uneveness. You could recover highlight detail in the sky using software. I usually over expose the sky a little in favour of foreground then pull the sky back using a combination of highlights slider, curves and a grad filter tool if needed. Somtimes I might dodge and burn areas too. Use the HSL panel to tweek the blues back to a deep blue color. Adding a slight vignette also helps darken the sky. (This all works in conjuction with a CPL).

By doing it in post you have more control and can even it out a bit.

Btw how much of a difference are we talking about? A little is normal and natural for a landscape shot. Especially if there is a lot of sky in the shot. A plain blue sky of one tone is kinda boring anyway in my opinion.

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