Any chance the redesign will also include a mobile version of the site? A while ago there used to be a mobile version, but it has been missing for some time.
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I am sorry for any dissatisfaction and happy to report we have received our first batch of EOS 5D Mk III bodies and body+kit packages. They should be shipped this afternoon. You will receive an email with a UPS package tracking number. UPS will be able to confirm the tracking number several hours later as we affix the number before the package is handed off from us to UPS. We expect our next batch to be delivered to us next week.
Just received an email from B&H related to my 5DMk3 Body order:
You placed order #xxxxxxxxx on 03/02/12.
One or more items from this purchase are still out of stock as we haven't yet received the merchandise from our supplier. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. We will keep you posted on a weekly basis.
We appreciate your patience and patronage. Feel free to contact us with any questions or comments about this order.
Don't do anything which kills the ants in the camera. Open the camera up as much as possible and set it in a protected area, preferrably open to outdoors, and let the ants leave. There's nothing within he camera which should encourage them to stay there.
Why do you say the viewfinder does not go wider than 5.6? I thought until the time of the shutter, the aperture is fully open and so should be at the F level you are trying to use.
Maybe i am mistaken, but can you explain a bit more please.
That statement isn't really correct for the aperture - it's actually f/2.8. The focusing screens in modern dSLRs are laser microetched to make them brighter, so they work better with slow lenses which are common these days. One consequence of that is that the viewfinder shows the DoF of an f/2.8 lens even with lenses that are faster than that. If you have a fast prime, test it yourself - use the DoF preview button as you stop down from wide open, and you'll see that the VF doesn't start getting darker until you hit ~f/2.8 (or f/2.5 with some lenses). The high-precision Eg-S screen for the 5DII is a 'brighter' screen that shows the true DoF for fast lenses (but f/5.6 lenses are pretty dark, unlike with the stock screen).
I use an Eg-S on the 5DII, and the lack of a similar option for the 5DIII is very disappointing. It's true that there will likely be 3rd party screens as there are for the 7D, but the focusing screen on the 7D is not considered user-replaceable, and doing yourself is a challenge, so most of the vendors that sell 7D screens also offer a service to swap them out. Personally, I prefer the flexibility to easily change them out on-the-fly - Eg-S when I'm going to be using a fast prime, Eg-A (the stock screen) when using a slower zoom, like the 28-300L where I might be outdoors or inside.
I have not done the jump myself but there is a thread on FM that mentions some issues with Tone Curves:
A PM was sent to me on another forum stating:
To paraphrase: it seems that LR4 does not import Tone curves properly when upgrading a LR3 catalog to LR4. Photos with Tone Curve adjustments will look different in LR4 even if you don't employ the "2012 process".
This is something you may want to be aware of when upgrading.
D800 has AF with f/8.0 lenses. And they charge more for the 5D3.
To early to say what the street prices will be
Street price will be MSRP for at least 6 months. After which I do not really expect it to lower any further.
Historically the street price usually is 20-30% below msrp - and that is what I expect from the 5DIII
Historically the 5D Mark II's pricing would disagree with that.
Current UK msrp is £2300, street price £1500 which is now over 30% off.
I'm on my 3rd EOS digital body now with virtually the same AF - 30D / 5D / 5D2 and I've NEVER had cause to complain about the AF. It works just fine for me for candid portraits, street, landscape and some amateur wildlife stuff.
I use centre point only and recompose. I use this method solely because I want to be 100% sure that the camera focuses on where I want it to focus. I like shallow depth of field stuff and so the focus point has to be perfect.
I'm interested to know what people will do with more than 60 AF points because aside from sports and some wildlife where you switch to servo I can't fathom the reasoning.
I think you kind of answered you own question.
why do you use the center point only? its because the other points are unreliable isnt it hence center point focus and recompose this method works.
however if you have a good AF system with a broader spread of points and good outer points you get to select the point more appropriate for you composition and compose focus and shoot. If the AF system is up to it this method is both faster and more accurate. I you get to use a 1D and try this method you will understand the massive difference in this regard.
as to the 61 points, the more points the more accurate the AI servo will track and hand over from point to point
number of points is all about focus tracking. the 9 point system is really not very good when it comes to focus tracking.
As neuro has also said the fact that the 1D meters where you have selected the AF point is also great (and essential if you are shooting in aperture priority or shutter priority however if you shoot manual and meter first its not really an issue as long as you under stand where in your frame the camera is metering)
Its all about fully understanding how your particular AF system works and where its limitations are. as soon as you try to exceed any limitation its going to cause frustration. If you know the limits and work within them then everything is fine
I shoot with a 5D, mostly landscapes. I do on occasion shoot fast indoor sports with AI focusing and never had any trouble. Those who clamor for multi-point focus points tend to forget that in an action scene the more focus points they have the more likely the camera will focus on the wrong subject.