Does the suggestion have to be Windows compatible?
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I heard that Apple and Canon are collaborating on a DSLR which has iPad functionality on the touchscreen interface. I'ts supposed to be called the "iCanPad".
actually.... why not?
and it will have a new scene mode dedicated to taking pictures of kittens...... because if there is anything that the web needs more of, it's pictures of kittens...
Do you like 40mm on the 17-40? I find it stays on my 6D far more than my 50mm. Those 10mm make a big difference.
I've shot with the 24-70/4 IS, and the 24-70/2.8 VC in the last month. I found I really liked the 24-70VC, but I also love the 35mm f/1.4. It'll depend on what you shoot the most.
I'd sort your LightRoom or your Aperture by list and focal length. That will likely really help with your decision.
Hi, I find I don't really use the 17-40 using the full 40mm but I do use it a lot around the 30mm and 35mm range. I would like to have both at some point I'm just trying to find which one to have first. I'd like it more for portraits at the moment. If you've used both, how does the tammy 24-70 2.8 vc bokeh compare to the sigma 35mm 1.4 bokeh? Thanks for the info
I forgot to mention i do have the 50mm 1.8 canon but i feel it is a odd length for me i feel like its too long. I am borrowing this lens (the 17-40) basically until i buy the next lens. I am on a limited budget i basically have enough for one lens. I have about $1350 at the moment
If you feel 50mm is too long on your 6D, then you will likely feel the same about the 35 on your T3i. I'd go for the Tammy. After a few months, see if you've developed a preference - where you've used it the most (i.e., wide or tele end), and base your prime lens purchase on that.
My lenses - I own:
24-105L, 35 f/1.4L, 50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.8 and 70-200 f/2.8
I think if I take the money I save from buying a 5D2 and put it into a 16-35 f/2.8 II, I'd have a nice wide angle I could use for the 7D that puts me into the ~24-50mm effective range.
I also have been weighing the cost of a 1.4x II extender - $399 to $499. Half to more than half the way to the $969 refurbished 7D... Rather have the 7D (for now) plus it gives me 1.6x AND AF that still works @ f/2.8 and faster using double cross-type points...
Thanks to everyone.
After using all three methods, traditional, back button AF, back button AF off, I settled on the last, it has all the advantages of independent control that traditional doesn't, but not the thumb committing and tiring disadvantage of method two. I strongly recommend people play with all their settings to find out what works best for them in any particular scenario.I shoot like private does with AF-On as AF Off, and I really like it for the same reasons he mentions.
Thank you for your reply, but the 6D is out of my budget for a 9/(11)-point, center-only cross-type AF system and I truly need to choose between a 7D or 5D2. Plus, I don't care for the 60D-like simplified rear panel of the 6D. Just does not suit my years of Canon EOS usage.
Exactly. I thought eventually she could carry the 18-55, 55-250 combo and be set if she was at some indoor sports. I know these cameras are not meant for high iso but it has to be better than ps and m4/3's. but i could always get that when the time comes. They are going to be 6 this year so I guess we have sometime.
Thanks everyone. Lots of good advice. Yeah she already ok'd the sony nex 6 and it has an evf so we could keep that but then if I went that route I would consider the nex 3nl since its half the price with all the same stuff she uses. Just not sure if squeezing in the eos would be better for the fact that hopefully i can get her a 17-50 2.8 someday and it would be a better combo. Never been a fan of the 4/3's cameras. She looked at the rx100 and hated the flash placement. I want the eos m but everyone seems to not be satisfied with the af speed and grabbing you kids you need all the speed you can get.
Prior Apple Genius here. Bseitz brings up what seems like it should be the truth. The reality is though that OS X and Aperture are extremely intelligent when it comes to allocating RAM. Aperture won't use what it really needs at the expense of other processes to an extent. It knows that you may flip into something more important, so it won't take what it really wants.
Swap used in activity monitor gives a better indication of whether or not you've maxed out your RAM.
Finally, as someone who has used a MacBook Pro with both 8GB and 16GB of RAM in a similar use case to yours, I noticed a big increase going to 16GB of RAM. Going from 16GB to 32GB in my iMac wasn't as big of a difference, still a nice little boost though.
At the risk of hijacking the thread, only doing this here hoping for benefit to more people than myself:
I always get confused about Page ins / Page outs / Swap. I used to use Page outs as my indication for needing more RAM, lately, haven't had a problem with it though. I mostly used Page outs because it also gives a bytes/sec readout, so you can tell what you're currently using. For swap, am I correct that it shows what you've used since the machine last restarted? For instance, my swap currently shows 2.92 GB, Page outs 2.42 GB (0B/sec), and Page ins 24.06GB (0B/sec). 3.42GB available RAM. So currently, I have plenty available, but given that I haven't restarted in a few weeks, at some point I did something that required some swap, and that's still showing up on activity monitor.
Thoughts? Thanks for your help!
Finally, the other advantage: With a DIY build, you're not confined to a particular OS. You can install Mac OS X, Linux, or Windows. You could run both Mac OS X and Windows. Whatever floats your boat.
That sounds much more in line with what I'd expect.
Here's an experiment: open Activity Monitor (should be in Utilities), and pin it to your dock. Go up to View -> Dock Icon -> Memory Usage. You'll get a pie chart in the dock, showing your system RAM. Red is active, Yellow is Inactive, Blue is Wired, and Green is Free. The first three are basically "RAM being used". Green is what you have available. Go about your workflow, but check on it when things start getting slow. Do you have any green? If you have available RAM, then upgrading probably won't help. With 50MB images, you theoretically probably have enough. As others have said, it depends what else you're doing simultaneously, etc. I've found that 12 is usually enough for me for LR processing, but when I run into trouble is when I have PS stitching together panoramas.
Sparknotes: If things get slow and you have no available RAM, an upgrade would definitely help. If you have available RAM when you experience slowdowns, the bottleneck is elsewhere.
great advice - thanks, I did just as you wrote and see that I have about 1gb in the green while I play around with editing my files. so I'm probably ok with 8gb.
thanks again bseitz!