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Messages - Botts

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61
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 7D: 'I need a Must Have's List'
« on: December 14, 2012, 10:41:06 PM »
This forum is genuinely awesome.  Thanks to all for the feedback.

So, if I am pushing my luck here please tell me ... but what would folks suggest for a bag/case?  Anyone have a favorite that works as kind of the 'everyday' camera bag?  I have a Lowepro MicroTrekker from Ritz Camera for my Canon Rebel G that I am using :)


I really like my Crumpler 7 Million Dollar Home

And my extra small Timbuk2 Snoop Messenger.

For flying I really like my HPRC 2550W case.  It's waterproof, and built like a tank.

Finally, if I'm out on a serious shoot, I like the now discontinued LowePro Computrekker AW Plus.  You can still find these on eBay.   I often carried Gitzo 3541LS legs with a Wimberley Gimbal strapped to the bag, a gripped 7D with 500mm mounted, a 7D with 70-200mm f/4 IS mounted, and a 10-20mm, 35L, and 17-55mm loose in the bag.  My 15" MacBook Pro lived in the back of the bag.  It was heavy, but it carried a ton of gear.

I like the Crumpler for when I'm on a dedicated photo trip".  But it's a touch too big for casual use.  I like the XS Timbuk2 bag for when I'm out travelling and want to have my camera on me.  The XS bag held my 6D with 35L mounted, a 430EX II, and a 70-200mm f/4 IS.

62
macro capability, tilt-shift lenses

Added, and maybe a valid point atm, though I originally left it out because you can also screw these on an eos-m. My point is rather "for what is a $3500 camera good instead of a sub-€1000 one", so it's not just about €100 p&s.

Durability and speed.

If you're making money on your photography getting the shot is what counts.  Let's look at a hypothetical, even if the IQ between a T2i and a 7D/5D3/1DX were identical, if you're shooting an event, and the weather decides to wreak havoc, that weather sealed body has a much higher chance at getting you that money making shot.  With the T2i you may choose to put it away to prevent sacrificing a body, or choose to try and use it in the weather just to have it die from the rain.

Alternatively, if you're lined up on the sideline at a sports game, and you know that a piece of key action is about to happen, if it's coming right for you, and you can't really predict the time, a 2 second burst at 6+ FPS gives you a much better chance at getting that winning shot as well.

63
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Crop vs FF for landscape photography
« on: December 14, 2012, 01:07:07 AM »
Incidentally, does anyone know if you can store AFMA settings in camera for, say, a 400mm f5.6 as well as a separate setting for the same 400mm but with a TC attached - i.e. are TCs recognised by cameras when storing AFMA settings?

I'm seriously considering keeping an EOS-M in my bag instead of a TC.  Similar to Corylus' comment of using the 40D when extra "reach" is required.  You also seemingly wouldn't lose the aperture advantage, though you'd sacrifice some ISO performance.  I fully expect Neuro to correct me if I'm way out to lunch.

64
How does the noise compare on something like a 60D with 17-55/2.8 IS, vs. a 6D with 24-70/4 IS?  If the 6D has to go up in ISO to compensate for the smaller aperture, will the resulting noise generally be more or less than the crop body at a lower ISO?  How about a 7D instead of a 60D?  In short, how does the low light benefit of going FF compare to the loss of a stop in aperture?

Thanks for any advice and help you can offer.

I upgraded to the 6D, and I miss my 17-55/2.8 IS.

You'll get a 1-stop advantage using the FF body from an ISO perspective, but it may take some learning to realize that you don't can't shoot at 1/8 anymore. 

If you go with a f/4 IS lens, you can still shoot at the slow shutter speeds, with a stop higher ISO.  That said, I'm looking at the Tamron 24-70/2.8 VC fairly closely and it might be a good fit.  I'd trade some sharpness to drop a stop in ISO over the f/4 IS.

Also: noticed you're like me with the tripod habit of not carrying it.  That's one of the reasons I like IS/VC/OS.  I'd seriously consider IS despite it narrowing the lens options.

65
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: [crop + 35L] versus [FF + 50 f/1.4]
« on: December 14, 2012, 12:51:51 AM »
I also have a 35mm 1.4 L, which I use extensively for pictures of the kids, mostly indoors with natural light, but also outside.  However, I don't own a 50mm lens yet or a zoom that covers the "normal" range for a FF camera.  My other lenses are:  70-200mm 2.8 II and EF-S 15-85mm.  I'll sell the EF-S lens with the 7D, so I need to decide between buying a 50mm or maybe a 24-70mm or 24-105mm zoom to give me more focal length versatility in the wide to normal range.  I'm not real impressed with the reviews of Canon's current 50mm options, so I would probably lean towards a zoom right now.  However, I realize I will give up quite a bit of low light capability going from the 35mm 1.4 to a zoom with a maximum aperture of 2.8 or 4.0.

Why not keep the 35L and crop the image if needed for low light?  And consider something like a 40STM for the more "normal range".  At $150 it's hard to go wrong, and you can always sell it if it isn't for you.

I find use for both the fast 35L and the 40STM.  If I'm stopped down to the f/4 range, I'd rather have the 40STM on the body.  For weight and IQ, at least to my eyes..

66
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon EOS 6D Rating by DXOMark
« on: December 13, 2012, 10:14:12 PM »
Nice to see that the 6D has a better DR score than the much more expensive 5D3 and 1Dx. Weakest point of the 6D is its AF system. But then again, people could shoot sports back in the days when cameras were manual focus only. Makes me wonder if we have become noobs because we need a great AF system (e.g. 5D3) to shoot sports nowadays...

I think the quantity of great sport shots has increased greatly over the manual focus AF days.  I would imagine in the olden days, people shot with relatively smaller apertures, and focused on the line of scrimmage.  I just looked back on Google to find photos from Super Bowls of old, and it appears that almost all of the images were taken of players near the line.  I would think the other shots were taken by focusing on a yard line for example, and waiting for the player to enter the zone of sharp focus, then shoot.

In this sense, I would think that having AF greatly improves the variety of sport shots.

I am fed up with all the people who think the only thing inside that magnesium alloy or polycarbonate shell is a CMOS image sensor, and that DxOMark Scores are the sole determinant of camera performance.   Normally those tend to be Nikon trolls.   :P

Agreed.  AF, FPS continuous, video options matter greatly to different real-world photographers.

You could give an NFL sideline photographer a D800 with it's super sensor, or a 1D3.  The D800 may have a better sensor, but that NFL photographer would certainly notice the 4 FPS difference (w/grip) or 6 FPS difference (w/o grip).

A starting-out wedding videographer could choose between the 5D2/6D or D600, the D600 may have a technically better sensor, but not having aperture control in video would be a dealbreaker for the D600.

Alternatively, a landscape or studio shooter, may prefer the D800 to the Canon's

67
How about with the OM-D? If we just compare against P&S then DSLRs don't seem so capable, there's mirrorless now.
Small, lenses weight nothing, it's fast, has quick and accurate AF, good IQ and DR.
The body is well built, it's weather sealed, and has a nice tilt screen.

Good point, I'm seriously considering an OM-D to use when my 6D is simply too large.  It may be worth including mirrorless in this thread, but no mirrorless is truly pocketable.

To answer the underlying question, I'd respond, different strokes for different folks.
Several people are more than happy enough to shoot with their archaic BlackBerry or old-gen iPhone cameras.  If they only want the images for facebook, or 4x6's good on them.  However, if you want to print memories in larger format, then the DSLR advantages kick in.

68
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D Top Focus Point Light Bleeding Issue
« on: December 13, 2012, 02:46:52 PM »
Confirmed on my 6D.

Not too concerned.  It's more of a minor annoyance.

Now that 604FF pointed it out I'm going to notice it every time though  ;)

69
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Only 1 lens
« on: December 11, 2012, 11:42:44 AM »
I'd keep the 5DII, sell both lenses and the 580, get a used 24-105L, a used 430 flash, and a used 50/1.8 II. I think that could net you $1500 and leave you with a very good kit for landscapes and portraits.

+1.  That's the cheapest and most versatile list I can think of also.  You can also skip on the 24-105L for the meantime if you really need the money but I can't think of letting go of your 5D2.

I'd do the same except maybe pick up the 40STM (~$150) instead of the 50/1.8 II (~$110).  That said, if you have the 50mm, you may want to keep it to save money though not as wide as the 40mm.  I'd also grab a used 70-300mm (<$300) to act as a tele.  This may enable you to skip the 24-105 (~$800).

On the full-frame you'd then have a wide/normal-ish 40mm or 50mm and you'd have a tele range, the 70-300mm.  If you had the money to upgrade, the Canon 70-200 f/4 is quite a bit sharper than the 70-300mm.

Alternatively, if you really want to start over, then I'd consider a 7D, with 15-85mm, and a 430ex.  You could probably pick up all of these for <$1300.  I just sold my 7D and 15-85 for $1,150.  It's sharp, just not fast.

70
The zoom button is killing me.  It's taking me forever to get used to.  The buttons that simply don't exist I got used to easily as they aren't there anymore.  The AF-pattern button is still there though, so I hit it out of habit.

When (and if) Magic Lantern runs on the 6d button remapping will be easier, and the zoom function is much better with ml for example the option to go to 100% with one touch.

The DOF preview button is also moved which is tougher IMO to press.

Canon marketing must have had a field day when they positioned that, nearly the same on the 60d ... I bet they had a contest for the most awkward position, and the guy with the winning design got a free 5d3 because he helped protect that model.

Good point with the ML remapping option should that become available.  As an ex-7D user I never had ML available.

I'm 99% sure that the DOF button is in the same place on the 6D as 5D3.

71
Lenses / Re: Best Value "Normal" Lens for 6d?
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:49:17 PM »
If you shoot in good light, or use strobes, I'd strongly consider the 40mm!

It's a great deal, and impressively sharp.  It is also a great size on the 6D.  It's been on my 6D almost non-stop since I received the 6D.

72
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Canon EOS 6D Service Advisory
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:21:57 PM »
    I for one actually would like paid firmware feature upgrades better than non at all - firmware is basically a software, and people who keep working on it after initial release deserve some $$$, that's how it works for the rest of the software world. I know this has been discussed before, but I still think a company doing more feature upgrades or innovations in formware would have a market advantage - the reactions to the 7d update proves that the customer base is more forgiving for big flaws when given small favors.

Interesting thoughts.  It might encourage the companies to innovate more with their firmware as new features are thought of, or put more effort into developing firmware faster.  I for one would have paid for the 7D's big update as soon as I could!!

It may also however, encourage a company to release crippled software knowing that they can charge for the "features" a month or two later.

73
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Skiing picture advice
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:13:50 PM »
Try to avoid falling  ;D

But seriously, consider bringing along a tough camera if you have one, for your real "action shots" i.e. if skiing backwards while videoing a colleague on a tough slope.  I use a Panasonic TS3 or a GoPro.

Also remember your extra batteries!  And keep these next to your body or as close as possible.

And one thing I can't recommend enough, bring good gloves.
  Get either a pair that has round elastics that go over your jacket arms so that you can easily rip off a glove to shoot with and have it remained tethered to your arm, or even better a pair of "shooting gloves" either for hunting or photography that have at least a flap to uncover your shutter finger, or better both flaps to uncover your thumbs and pointer fingers.

74
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Using 1DX in very low temperatures
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:07:17 PM »
Haven't shot with my 6D in that cold yet, but I know that my 7D could take it.  I don't think we've seen warmer than -10C in the last 2 weeks here!

I used the 7D more than a few times at -35C/-30f last year.  I just left it in my camera bag  when I came inside to slow down the warming process, which was probably more than I needed to do.

Here in Canada, we know that our fingers take cold less easily than our gear!

75
6D is a wonderful step up in image quality for anyone shooting crop.

6D +7D is an awsome camera set that will give you options on which camera to shoot for the right subject/goal.  So if you have a 7D and can add a 6D by all means do.

5DIII is most of the 6D and 7D combo and is the better choice if you don't already have the 7D.

Very good points that I agree with.

I decided that I'll keep the money I saved by going 6D not 5D3, and instead of spending it on a lens like most are suggesting, I'll keep it in the hopes that Canon sometime releases a 7D2.  That way if I ever have a hankering to shoot sports or animals I'll have a great camera for that.  I know that when I shot shuttle launches I'd be renting a 7D because the 6D's speed wouldn't cut it.  From 3 miles though, almost everything is par focal, so the AF wouldn't be an issue, just the burst speed.

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