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Messages - comsense

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EOS-M / Re: Just got my EOS-M! First impressions...
« on: July 12, 2013, 07:51:49 PM »

I likely won't ever be reaching for my iPhone (5 as well) when this camera is with me.

I also have an iPhone 5 and it certainly does not compare as a camera to the EOS-M. 
Both of you need to read my post again.  For sake of time and sanity I am not going to explain to you that 4fps does not compensate for long lag time between the shots and enable capture something at the very exact moment you want.
I did not/am not saying that iPhone is better than M (or compare them; it will be foolish to say/do so). Also note that I am happy with my purchase as well as image quality of M. I also said that for still objects or landscapes it works very well and none of what I say about speed is applicable. My comments are applicable to situations like:
1) Your kid doing something cute which you want to capture almost instantly.
2) Some event/occurance you saw while driving or stopped at light (as a passenger of course) that you want to record instantly.
Also, I am not saying that you will get no photo. Just that your abilities will be limited and you might miss that moment all together. And I am not saying anything new. It is universally accepted that this camera is kind of slow.
Don't get fixated on pixel density and fps and all and swear that you would never touch iPhone. There will be time when it will be faster (note faster is not equal to better) for you to whip iPhone to take a shot while accessing M, switching on and fumbling with its quirks will actually miss the moment. Remember, how apple bypasses even lock so that you can shoot almost instantly (even my 1 yr old figured out how to do it, which is a huge problem as I am tired of deleting random photos from my phone :-). For those moments and and others when you have nothing else, iPhone is not bad camera. Provided you are talking about photography as an art or tool to capture beautiful moments and not a scientific project of resolution and sharpness. Don't dismiss any tool, however small or insignificant it may look to you....

EOS-M / Re: Just got my EOS-M! First impressions...
« on: July 12, 2013, 03:18:47 PM »
Being skeptical, I thought all those armchair reviewers with high expectations has created enough hysteria to hurt sales resulting in great camera being sold at $300.
Upon using it for 15 minutes, here is my first impression:

Situations where this camera (+ 22 f/2) is awesome:
Combination of Small form + Low light + patience

For people buying it as a sole high quality camera:
Bound to be frustrated (esp. if shooting RAW) due to shot capture time and time between shots. iPhone 5 is way better in this regard than EOS M.
See, missed moment = no shot
so low quality iphone shot is better than no shot.
And you WILL miss shots with this.

For people buying as a backup:
Even if you got $300 deal, you will need to plunk couple 100's for accessories to be able to make it usable to the level that you have 1 shot every 3-5 seconds or more!!!!
Much better to buy a used 60D instead.
Now, I am not going to bother to spend any dime on accessories at all.
IMO, its oxymoron, as with anything except pancake M lenses, you loose for form factor. So what are you achieving by plunking $$$, a seriously crippled 70D alternative for same price and form?

Am I happy with my purchase:
Absolutely YES. It can create some great images for certain types of photography or if you have patience and time. While you will miss some images, its still better as
no camera = no images and this is definitely daily pocket/bag-able.
That said if I require speed I am likely to reach for iphone rather than risk with this.
I would be really furious if I had bought it at full price. So, its easy to understand why this thing did not sell.
IMO, Canon should fire the the person who approved the premature marketing of this product resulting in dent in brand image. Its not ready even now! EOS M II should have been a launch version!!!

Lenses / Re: 50 F1.4 durabilty question
« on: July 09, 2013, 08:00:07 PM »
FWIW my EF 50 f/1.4  was perfect and like new when I made the mistake of selling it as a 12 year old lens to replace it with a Sigma 50 f/1.4. Bad move. I should have kept the Canon!

Mind you I never dropped the EF 50. Drops and falls are weird things. Massive drops can result in miraculously little damage...yet I dropped a 70-200 f/2.8 on a 1D MkIIn body and both lens and body were write-offs. The strap slipped off my shoulder and fell onto relatively soft carpeted floor. Weird...People can fall off a cliff and walk away with cuts and bruises or slip on a banana skin and die.

Yes, hoods are terrific shock absorbers and should be used at all times. 

Very true. Depends on the Fall

Can anyone confirm this, or shed some light on it. I'm surprised that canon used the weakest material on what was once one of the most popular lenses.
Its design not materials. Plastic can be very hard, sturdy and cheap.
Let me tell you a story about newer but even cheaper lens, 18-55 that came with rebel kit about 10 yrs ago. I accidentally dropped it from my bag while taking something else out of my camera bag from passenger door (just luck that nothing more expensive fell out of it). It rolled under my car to other side and landed under the wheel of minivan backing out of the parking lot fully loaded with hefty people. Yes a minivan ran right over it. I was dead sure that I have a plastic pulp on the other side. To my surprise, the lens was bit scriffed, the metal mount was bit bent but otherwise looked OK. Glass was clean and even filter was not broken. I just tossed it in camera bag, only to notice again months later. I straightened the mount as best as I could and tested the focus and image quality. I know that f/3.5 does not put high demand on tolerances but still!! It worked as well as it should. $90 lens almost entirely made of plastic survived the weight of minivan !!!
So, I think we have so many broken 50 f/1.4 due to old design of plastic gears packed in light shell.

Canon General / Re: Debranding a 5DIII
« on: July 09, 2013, 04:05:20 PM »
I'm aware that most of you will probably think that the idea of even attempting this is ridiculous, but
No the idea is not ridiculous but need to me looked with right logic. Only conceivable reasons to do this:
1) Avoid theft: would not work - Any normal thief given an opportunity would not be repulsed stealing an unmarked big camera with big glass   
2) Avoid attention: Would do the opposite - How many people look at photographer and scramble to read the model # on their camera. Most like the few who frequent forums like this. And even an unmarked rebel would raise the attention level of this group to moon.
3) Style and statement: There can be no arguments against this one. Except, be careful not to damage $3K camera!!!

EOS-M / Re: How do you carry your EOS-M?
« on: July 09, 2013, 01:48:57 AM »
Cases for every small thing. You are a case study for case management of cases  ;D ;D
Yes, I have a case or two...   ;D

Holy Case!! That's some organization :o :o
I do agree with your caseology though. It should not be an inch more than what you need for an occasion and readily accessible  :) it's no good fumbling around in the huge case for small package and miss the moment !!!!

EOS-M / Re: How do you carry your EOS-M?
« on: July 08, 2013, 08:37:17 PM »
Ok, so my EOS M + 22mm f/2 kit arrived today, but my Dashpoint 20 is still en route.  However, last night i had a mini epiphany, and it turned out to be a good one.  When I switched my Speedlite setup from a 600EX-RT and two 430EX II's to three of the 600's, I bought two more Lowepro Quick Flex Pouch 75 AW cases for the 600's, and was left with one of the Lowepro Quick Flex Pouch 55 AW cases for a 430EX II that I no longer had.  So last night I thought, I wonder if the EOS M will fit?  (As a side note, I use a Lowepro Lens Exchange 200 AW as an ideal case for transporting my disassembled RRS PG-02 LLR gimbal head, and a Lowepro Lens Case 9x13 for my RRS BH-55, so I don't mind using a case intended for a flash to hold a camera, instead.)

It turns out that the EOS M with the pancake lens mounted fits very nicely in a Lowepro Quick Flex Pouch 55 AW.  There's a small internal pocket that will hold a battery and spare SD card, there's room for a strap to be rolled up inside the case, and the case has a Sliplock attachment and a tuck-away all-weather cover.  There's a snap closure in addition to the zipper, for quick access when actively shooting.
Cases for every small thing. You are a case study for case management of cases  ;D ;D

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Weak LP-e6 battery
« on: July 07, 2013, 11:58:51 AM »
And the myths defeat the science, logic and common sense again  ::)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Weak LP-e6 battery
« on: July 06, 2013, 03:21:51 PM »
I try as far as possible to completely discharge the LP-E6 in camera (so it will no longer power the camera) before I recharge it, though I'm not sure if this really makes much difference to battery life/ recharge performance.

If anything, that's worse.  Li-ion batteries are better used frequently but lightly. Frequent full discharges will actually reduce overall longevity.
Some myths are impossible to break. Re-posting something I had posted earlier here. Neuro, timescales are very important here. It's good to let your camera/laptop die if you are going to put battery back on charger soon enough (less than months; conservatively few weeks; absolutely paranoid - days)....
If using your battery till your camera/laptop dies was so bad, there will be some note in the product manual (not every corporation is evil trying to sell as many batteries as possible). Or even better, Canon/Apple would make your device shut down before the threshold that effect the overall battery life. Its not something hard to do. What you are talking about is called deep discharge. If you store the depleted Li-Ion battery for long term (months), it may discharge below threshold and open built in safety circuit that would brick the battery. So its absolutely safe to use the battery till your camera is dead if you are going to put it back in charger immediately or soon enough.
However, since the charge cycle is additive (meaning discharging the battery to 50% and recharging to twice would count as 1 cycle instead of 2) you can recharge it whenever you want without worrying about depleting cycles. Now here is a catch - After 30 cycles or so, repeated partial discharge could create a digital memory leading to faulty power gauge. So still the best practice would be to let them deplete to near complete discharge (not deep discharge) i.e. using till camera is dead but charge them back immediately. Always store them at full charge or at least 50% or more.
Single data point statement aka blog wisdom: Have used all Li-Ion batteries this was and my batteries always outlast the device or live way past stated optimal cycles (One laptop battery lasted record 5+ years with good amount of use).

note...same setting was meant as ---same location (IE the setting of the image, not the settings of the cameras!
Have you heard the phrase 'comparing apples with oranges'?
You can actually control those 'settings of the camera' and make photo of either kind from both of them!

And even the scene can change a lot even though you think they are 'same setting'. Cloud, some stray light or reflection entering the scene and changing metering, to name a few.

Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 26, 2013, 11:08:53 AM »
Do I notice the differerence after calibration - yes - shots look slightly sharper but I am not sure even a +4 AFMA will produce a very noticable difference on the wide end

'Looks' slightly sharper with +\- 1 is definitely a placebo effect. It should not make any difference in non test chart shooting situations and very little even on test charts.


Sorry to plug these, but no one else besides photographers even care  8)
Nice try on self promotion, bit vain though. Looks like even photographers don't care!!!

Thanks for your kind feedback ;D
I try. Would be more honest next time since you are taking it well  ;)

By all means, tell me what you really think  ;D  (P.S.  I owe you a debt of thanks.  By writing a snarky comment about my self-promotion, you restored attention to the thread and allowed me a bit more self promotion  ;)
That was my purpose  :) And my comment was not snarky. You would be delusional if you think you are doing favor on mankind. Its nice to do promotions, many people do it here. Yours is bit vain for my taste. But good as far as it get attention to your photography  :) See I added 1 more post and kept the thread on page 1.


Sorry to plug these, but no one else besides photographers even care  8)
Nice try on self promotion, bit vain though. Looks like even photographers don't care!!!

Thanks for your kind feedback ;D
I try. Would be more honest next time since you are taking it well  ;)


Sorry to plug these, but no one else besides photographers even care  8)
Nice try on self promotion, bit vain though. Looks like even photographers don't care!!!

Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 19, 2013, 02:15:25 PM »

When a lens requires more than about a 5 point adjustment, the improvement is noticeable, and 10 points or more is flat out obvious.

Good point. Example of useful information FoCal (can also DIY but much easier on FoCal) can provide for those who want to know their equipment. What is error range of AF on a given camera? That in turn would decide what AFMA change would bring noticeable difference. However it is important to note that it is hard to measure AF error objectively for cross comparison as it depends on contrast on/near sensors and available light. This is one reason why some advocate using real shooting scenario rather than charts. In simple words, charts would reduce the AF error beyond that is possible in real world shooting, making you obsess for adjustments that wont be relevant in real world.
Now, if you have time and patience, it would not be a bad thing at all to fine tune you equipment even at a test chart level.

Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 19, 2013, 01:58:15 PM »

One 'quick-and-dirty' test is to compare contrast-detect (live view) AF with phase-detect (viewfinder) AF.  Set up on a tripod, take a few shots in Live View, then a few shots with standard AF.  If there's a noticeable difference in sharpness between the sets of images with the Live View images winning, AFMA would be a good next step. 

Couldn't agree more. This is my absolute must after I buy a new lens or try new combo.

I think its also relevant to add here, that for situations where DoF is super thin (and hence optimal AFMA most necessary) finding a contrasty signal for AF sensor to latch on (mostly in sub-optimal light) is most critical. Would definitely increase razor sharp keepers (provided everything else is in tolerable range).

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