December 21, 2014, 06:41:43 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jdramirez

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 175
1
Technical Support / Re: Alternating colour shift in sequences of photos
« on: December 20, 2014, 04:43:22 PM »
Yes, it's the color temp of the lights changing (flicker).  Enter the anti-flicker feature of the 7DII...
Or use slower shutter speeds such as 1/125.

Yes, that would work great for couches and walls, and people posing for shots.  Not so good for kids running around.
I think Neuro is right.

When I got the 7D2, one of the things I had to try was the anti-flicker mode. With it turned on, the burst were all the same brightness and the same colours.... when I turned it off, the brightness and white balance was all over the place....

So it actually worked?  Were those in raw or in .jpg?  I guess that is a feature we can look forward to in the 5d mk4... not enough to get my checkbook out... but I'm interested.

2
Technical Support / Re: Alternating colour shift in sequences of photos
« on: December 20, 2014, 12:48:46 PM »
Ok, thanks everybody, I was really worried there or a moment!

At my daughter's old school, the paint on the gym was a really good white so when I set the white balance off of the wall, it came out perfect more often than not. 

3
I'm an assistant coach... not a videographer.  If I was just videoing... I could and would zoom in and out... and adjust focus... and all that... but I'm at the end of a bench looking at the action, yelling at girls telling them to set picks, go up hard for a rebound, etc.  So i basically angle the camera so I can get much of the shot in the frame, so I can pay attention to the action on the court. 

So this might just be what I have to deal with.



IS isn't taboo on a monopod, I use it often with great success. Try it on and off and see what you like better.

I think that cropping 1080 video and then exporting at 1080 will result in low-def-looking video. I would try to avoid cropping in post as much as possible.

Lastly, your shutter speed can be a great tool to change the look of your movies and accentuate motion. You also may need to dial it in to prevent flicker if you are in a fluorescent-lit gym.

4
Technical Support / Re: Alternating colour shift in sequences of photos
« on: December 20, 2014, 08:43:22 AM »
Yeah, that happens... it's awful. 

The best way to deal with flickering lights is to shoot at 1/60 of a second or slower... and then all that flickering blends into one uniform white balance.

Having said that, 1/60 isn't really an option for ALL indoor shootings... so just deal with it in post.  I try to get close using a custom WB... and then I don't have to adjust that much in post.

5
sounds to me more like an editing issue, you could have a stanard definition template set up, final cut and premiere will rescale automatically to fit your 1080 footage into sd resolution..

you don't mention what you are cutting on, but just make sure your timeline is also set to 1080p 30fps.

The P bit is very very important in this application where theres lots of panning and subject movement.

I kinda wish there weren't so many exporting options with premiere.  I would like there to be just 4... 480, 720p, 1080i, and 1080p... and then maybe a 2nd column that has the file format, .avi, .mp4, etc.

But no....

6
Two things I noticed you did wrong. One was having IS on your lens turned on while it's mounted to a fluid head monopod. Having the IS on-on a stable platform will cause jerkiness. Second, your shutter speed should be 2x your fps. I.e. 24fps shutter speed 48, 30fps shutter speed 60.

That's true about the IS... I mostly forgot to turn it off but I'll make a point to do so next time.

And I have heard about the 2x shutter rate... though wouldn't that just increase the iso?  In my mind... I not not sure why double the shutter rate would affect the smoothness of the video especially since the the capture rate is 30fps.

Though this is the 2nd time I've heard that bit of advice... so I'm going to just take it for granted that it is true...

7
I'm not video'ing anything important... just my daughter's basketball games.  Here's the techinque I'm using... and I want to know if yall thinking going in the right direction or am I using too much of my still technique and ruining the video.

I'm using a 5D mkiii and a 24-105L with the IS on.  I set in the middle, but closer to one side of the court than the other... so I wind up shooting around 35mm because it is wide enough to capture the action in the close half-court.

I try and manually focus using live view and 10x magnifying to get a player in the middle of the court in focus... then I rely on a relatively expansive depth of field to get the rest of the players in focus.  I shot at f/8... but I'm not married to f/8... and I think f5.6 would probably work for what I'm doing. ISO was automatic.

Shutter speed is 30 fps, and the capture settings are 1080p @ 30 fps. 

I have the camera on a monopod with a fluid pan and I move the camera back and forth.  That was probably the best part of my video... the panning...

In post, I'm cropping the video to create highlights, so the basket is towards the left/right of the screen and then the the action is visible in the rest of the screen. 

So the blah video pixelation could be me cropping too heavily and then exporting in h262 (or whatever it is) @ 1080p... So I'll take the blame on that one... but I don't think I cropped THAT MUCH... And the uncropped video wasn't overly impressive either. 

So suggestions would be appreciated.  It's little girls basketball... so i don't want to buy a new lens for little girls basketball... but maybe a suggestion here or there would be most welcome.

8
Lenses / Re: DANGIT! I rented the 85 1.2ii
« on: December 19, 2014, 02:12:17 PM »
On Sunday, I videoed my daughter's basketball game, 5mkiii+ 24-105+ monopod.

All things considered, we did pretty well, the panning was smooth but the video quality was pretty bad. I have to figure out how to take video in high def and it actually look like it was in high def.

9
Lenses / Re: $600 burning a hole in your pocket?
« on: December 19, 2014, 11:10:29 AM »
I thinking the 35mm as well.  Maybe a 24-105L if eBay is reputable enough...

10
Canon General / Re: Advice on which DSLR to get
« on: December 18, 2014, 11:43:57 PM »
I have a 5d mkiii and it shoots at 6ish shots per second... and I use that feature about 3% of the time... so it does come in handy, but not enough to persuade me one direction or another.  I'd probably suggest a t3 or a t5 used... maybe $250 to $350... and then buy a decent prime lens... maybe a 35 f/2 is... or a 40mm pancake... and then tell her to learn... learn learn.... learn....

Oh... and if she outgrows it... sell the body for $200 to $300... the bodies keep their value well enough... and the lenses really hold their value well... 

11
Lenses / Re: DANGIT! I rented the 85 1.2ii
« on: December 18, 2014, 11:38:38 PM »
I love the lens, its super heavy, but for portraits, its amazing  :D

nice shots.  It's heavy for its size, but I'm also used to lugging around the 70-200mm f/2.8 mkii. 

It's funny... when I hold an 18-55mm kit lens... it feels like there isn't anything there... it's just gonna float away.

12
Lenses / Re: Buying Advice: What First Lens for a Full Frame?
« on: December 18, 2014, 01:50:55 PM »

Is the quality in optics noticeably better in the 50 1.4 compared to the 1.8?

I didn't think it was noticeable, but the 1.4 is a little better.  I'm not sure I'd anyone mentioned this, but the lenses are really sharp at f2.8, but wider than that and it gets soft... so just be aware that you won't be shooting wide open without paying a price.

That's both of them, not just the cheap one.

13
Lenses / Re: DANGIT! I rented the 85 1.2ii
« on: December 18, 2014, 01:45:04 PM »
Agreed.  The 50mm f1.8, 70-200 mm f2.8L mkii, and the 85L mKii are the only purchases where there was zero buyer's remorse.  I did really like my 100L, but over time I lost my preference for it.

It will melt 85mm f1.8 and 135L in second.

Your next best is 200mm f2 IS

I disagree that the bokeh you posted cannot be achieved with a 135L. You should try a comparison with yours :)
What the 85L can do is achieve that with a much wider field of view

I wish I had brought 135L and taken same shot to compare the two ::)

I'm going to skip the debate about bokeh between 85L II Vs 135L - we all know which lens has upper hand. The photo was to demonstrate how 85L II can be at f1.2 in low light. This photo was taken at f1.2 1/125 I believe ISO is about 2000.

With 135L, I'm more likely to be f2  1/160min ISO=????
Own both and the 135 gets used only when shooting fast moving subject and need to jump from MFD to infinity quite often.
Otherwise, 85 all the time. Both bokeh and focal length match my needs way better.

14
I meant to bring this up last night... Do you have insurance?  Homeowners might cover the theft. Also I have a policy on my gear, and it is General to the device... so I didn't list a serial number. 

So if you have an mkiii covered, this might cover you as well. 

15
Btw: Rusty, did you manage to record your serial numbers on Lenstag before this occurred? (https://www.lenstag.com)
I have some of my gears serial numbers listed there; if I wasn't so damn lazy I would even had them verified so that they would be useful if the fit hit the shan...

Good question.  Not on Lenstag but I do keep the serial numbers in case someone ever tries to pull a switch and return on me.

Can you contact CPS... see if someone who unknowingly buys it off ebay/amazon, or whatever... then they register it on cps... and bam, cps lets you know, you tell the police...

the buyer then has to mail it back to you... and they will then contact amazon/ebay or whatever and demand a refund... and the theft guy then gets his payment stopped... maybe even goes to jail.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 175