September 19, 2014, 02:04:43 AM

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Messages - jdramirez

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Abe's of Maine, Samy's in California, Glazers in Seattle.  There are options, but they may not offer the same price point.

Abe's went out of business... their name was sold to a shady nyc company... they try and up sale you now.  Not cool.

Anything outside of Manhattan is just camping out!

Seriously, if another retailer does not collect the tax you owe, that doesn't mean you don't have to pay it.

Right. . And that time you ate a donut at the company you were visiting and didn't reconcile it with your per diem... that will get you straight into hell. 

Send it to a friend who lives in Jersey or conn... and go and pick it up on the weekend.  Done.

Lenses / Re: How many years before we see a 50L II
« on: July 24, 2014, 12:10:51 PM »
This is probably a better question for the retailers.  Had the sigma impacted the Canon's sales?  If not... then my answer would be not for a long time.

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 24, 2014, 12:07:18 PM »
'White box' is not used or anything like that, it's a 'kit lens' not in the kit anymore. Just be sure the warranty card is with it (which I'm sure Adorama would include!) and you'll be fine. I would think the lens hood would be with it, I bought one that way (of course, I worked at the camera store it came from!). And the bag, front and back caps.

The Warranty card does nothing.  For service, you need a receipt from a authorized dealer (Like Adorama).  You can toss the warranty card.

I know this is the case... but what is the warranty card... a vestige of years gone by?  I had a 1.3mp Olympus p&s and the usb connection went bad, so I called them and they said that my online registration was for marketing purposes alone and I needed the receipt... I was so angry that I never considered another one of their products...

But still

I'm a fan of bokeh... but when you have a single color backdrop behind your subject... shooting at a thin depth of field just seems like a dangerous game to play.  This is the shot... if only the eyes were in focus. 

Stopping down to f8 solves some of the thin dof issues... and since you can control the lighting, the images won't be under exposed... but then we don't want the images to sharp to show how fugly our subject is...

So I think... 100L for really sharp eyes, but 85 f1.2 for softer blurred skin, but maybe my in home studio isn't that big... so just go for a 35 L...

I make my decisions based on how I feel at the moment... some at f8... some at .11 inches of dof...

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 23, 2014, 04:02:04 PM »
One small thing about the 24-105, there is some small rubber band or something that goes bad after five years or so... so just be careful of buying too used...

On every single one? Isn't that a defect that Canon should fix before allowing them to be sold?

It is a design flaw... I usually refresh my gear every other year... so it won't affect me... but I'm atypical. 

Get the lens though... sell it in 4 years and upgrade or buy another. 

They can make an APS-C version of their 120MP APC-H sensor. Etc.

That would make for a 66MP sensor. Does any of Canon's lenses have the resolving power to match that?

Depends on who is buying... some people have more money than sense.

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 23, 2014, 02:29:09 PM »
One small thing about the 24-105, there is some small rubber band or something that goes bad after five years or so... so just be careful of buying too used...

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 23, 2014, 02:26:23 PM »
Well damn, I didn't even think to look on Canon's site specifically. I figured they'd be way more expensive. :)

Is a refurbished lens better than a new, white box lens, though? Doesn't refurbished mean that it was broken at one point and then fixed?

Not necessarily... refurb equipment is stuff that is returned to the factory for whatever reason, which can include buyers remorse.  They check out the equipment and make sure it's functioning up to spec.  I bought a refurbed 5DII a couple years ago that had less than 100 clicks.  I also purchased 3 refurbed lenses and 2 flashes, and never had an issue with any of it.  Certainly some of the refurbished units could have been broken and then fixed, but with a warranty of 1 year, there is much less risk.

A retail box could have been damaged as well, but the lens is still basically new.  So they check it... repackage it and put it in a white box.

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 23, 2014, 02:24:47 PM »
Buy a new one off ebay for 650, then buy a three year warranty from square trade.  You'll save money and have piece of mind. 

Abstract / Re: Lets See Some of Your Double Exposures!
« on: July 22, 2014, 09:34:14 AM »
Just figured out how to accomplish this on my 6D (I'm behind the times here) Looking for some inspiration...

I knew we could do this in Photoshop with layers... or long exposures with flash... but I didn't know this was an ooc function as well.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Where do you buy 5D Mark iii?
« on: July 21, 2014, 09:39:51 PM »
I bought mine from Amazon.  I won't go into the gory details, but I paid around $2600 after selling the 24-105 for around $700. 

There are deals to be had... and if the rumors are true, the 5d mkiv should be out in the first quarter of 2015.  So if you can wait, there will probably be a ton for sale used...

then there will be several packaged for a decent price.  Just depends on your tolerance for waiting.  I'm waiting to buy the 50 art... and that is just painful.

You'd think they'd put AFMA in it.  It counts as a good user feature but really it also helps Canon increase user satisfaction by letting owners fix any minor manufacturing boo boos themselves. 

Why wouldn't they do that?  Otherwise most people with slightly out of whack lenses or bodies just suffer with it and tell people their Canon just wasn't very sharp.  Maybe they buy a Pentax next time. 

Then others have to deal with the hassle of sending their body and one favorite lens off for adjustment at Canon which is no fun for either the owner or for Canon, and it is all avoidable if they'd just include AFMA.

If the ketchup companies are smart enough to add "shake well before serving" to their labels, so that the user is more likely to have a positive experience with their condiments, why would a camera maker leave out AFMA?

I think 80% of Canon rebel users primarily use the 18-55mm, a 75-300mm, a 55-250mm, and then the 50mm f/1.8.

So the max aperture range is 3.5 to 5.6 for the first three lenses... and the 50mm is really quite soft from f/1.8 to f/2.8ish... So you will tend to stop down the 50...

Would yall say that rebel owners who have a good f/1.4 (or a 100L which has a really shallow depth of field) lens is probably around 10%.  Maybe a 35L, the 100L, a 50L, etc. 

I'd think 90% of the rebel market don't have a need for it... and probably another 5% wouldn't use it.  I would want AFMA, but I suppose I'd be ok with afma being @ the X0D or higher.

I love the idea... but I don't want to pay twice as much for a lens because of the infrastructure and added tech.  That's why I lean towards a software issue.

I'm not concerned about the photos.... but reducing the functionality of the camera/lens to reduce its resale value if stolen.

If Canon incorporates this locking functionality across the board, thieves would have a fiduciary causation to avoid Canon gear. 

It's a good start, but a better solution would increase your chances of getting caught.  Put a cellular chip in the thing, but leave it powered down.  If someone fails to unlock the camera with a fingerprint or PIN, the cellular chip immediately goes live, and every thirty seconds, sends GPS coordinates back to Canon servers until the user unlocks it correctly.  To make it infeasible for criminals to disable this feature, use a self-contained microcontroller instead of the main CPU, powered by a supercapacitor deep inside the unit.

Software & Accessories / Re: Post processing workflow
« on: July 18, 2014, 12:31:01 PM »
I think I listen too much to people here... I expose to the right by a 3rd of a stop... so my images out of camera all look overexposed with little contrast and even less saturation.  But that is what post is for... fixing what I broke.

As long as you haven't clipped highlights then you haven't broken anything, just bring things back down in post and you should have a cleaner image - that's what ETTR is all about. I don't use it all the time, but it can help with some high ISO shots sometimes.

I think it's a shame that post processing sometimes gets associated with "fixing"; for me it's all about enhancing what's there.

I was being cheeky... but when I do ettr, the raw image is better to work with, but the jpg image out of the camera would look blah and over exposed... one of the reasons I don't bother with jpg.

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