October 20, 2014, 06:24:00 PM

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Messages - jdramirez

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181
I have 2 mono pods and find them both to be excellent for their designed purposes. The small one is a Gitzo GM2541, rather pricey but very strong and ridiculously light - also I don't think it will ever need replacing. The other is a Sirui P424. Not quite as well made as the Gitzo but more reasonably priced, pretty light and holds anything - this is what I use for my Canon 800mm.
I am not a fan of heads on mono pods but where I need significant vertical movement I use the Sirui L10 head which is pretty good with lenses up to a 300 F2.8 + a pro body.
If the Gitzo is too expensive then have a look at the Sirui P324 (my P424 is simply more than you need) as it is a fine robust mono pod that is reasonably light and not silly money.
You may notice that neither of my mono pods have flip locks (neither do my tripods) there is a reason for that - I have used flip locks in the past and do not consider them suitable/trustworthy for tripods and mono pods. Both the Gitzo and Sirui twist locks are far superior and much easier to use, as well as being MUCH more secure.

Between the p324 and the p 424, there is only a $30 price difference... If that's the case, I'd get the latter.  Having said that... I'm an aluminum kind of guy. Carbon fiber is nice... it is lighter, but not at twice the cost.


182
Lenses / Re: Would you buy the 35L now, or wait?
« on: August 25, 2014, 05:32:55 PM »
I'd buy used... that's my goto move.  So if you buy it today for 900... you can sell it for around that in 1 or 2 years... because if Canon isn't going to rush to bring a new 35L to the market after the 35 art came out, then chances are they aren't in any rush. 

183
The last five times I've used my tripod...

At home, at home, at home, at home, at home.

The last time I used the troops outside was when I was doing some mediocre astrophotography in a corn field.

I did take it to a softball tournament, but it stayed in the car.

I think I'm more likely to take a monopod (with feet) to places and More likely to use it... though I'm not certain...




184
My problem with the manfrotto is the screw.. I don't like that small hollow attachment to get the screw size right for the ball head.  I have lost one of those before and I'm sure it would happen again. 

I really appreciate the response, but I think the seusei is the leader in the clubhouse.

185
I watched some youtube videos last night... and I think the manfrotto and the sirui are definitely the leaders in the club house.  I have to shower now... but I'll go into further detail later.

186
I have had two... the same one actually, but I think I lost the first one... the reason I think I lost the first one is because my house is a Mess with a capital M.  It very well could just be hiding under that pile of dead cats.  :/

It was a Dolica Monpodhttp://www.amazon.com/Dolica-WT-1003-67-Inch-Lightweight-Monopod/dp/B000VZS2EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408930250&sr=8-1&keywords=dolica+monopod and it served a dual purpose... monopod for me and a walking stick for my daughter.  I'll admit... it was light enough in weight... I could convert it to put a ball head on it (though i didn't like the stability), it was strong enough that it could hold my camera gear and my daughter's weight... and it was less than $20... so perfect for me.

I primarily used it to pan side to side for my daughter's basketball games... so it worked just fine.  The only complaint I had about it is that the rubber grip would slide down and I would have to move it back up.  Small complaint... meh.

I came into a bit of free money for buying and selling some gear in less than week.  So I thought I would go ahead and replace the Dolica that I sold for $10.

So here's my wishlist for the new monopod.  I want something sturdy, well built (preferably with the flip latches), compatible with both heads and bodies (so both types of screws), and this is the sticking point... I want the three feet @ the bottom so it will stand without me holding onto it... and they should be retractable.   

I saw someone else's post... I'm 69" tall, and the heaviest load I would put on is the 5d mkiii and the 70-200mm f/2.8 (at present).

I kinda like this... http://www.adorama.com/SIBSRP204S.htmlbecause of the panning grip and the claw feet... but it doesn't have a head... and I would like a bonus head if I'm spending that much money... it also doesn't have the flip lock...

and I like this http://www.adorama.com/BEA48FBS4.html... flip lock, claw feet, and it does have a head... but that big panning grip is annoying... so I would probably not use the head that often. 

and I guess this is my 3rd option, http://www.adorama.com/BG682B234RC.html but the stick feet look like they wouldn't be ideal to use and the head isn't a ball head... so maybe it will take some getting used to, but it does have the flip locks...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/434422-REG/Manfrotto_560B_1_560B_1_Fluid_Video_Monopod.html And then there is this one... which has a fluid base for easy panning that is adjustable... and the flip locks... and while it isn't a ball head... it does have a head that's a bonus... and it has the feet I like... but that sansui... it appeals...

So I'm thinking my best best is to get the monopod I like and just buy a separate ball head that I'm fond of... but that's more money and suddenly my bonus free cash is spent and now I'm spending money that I don't want to spend... So I would greatly appreciate if yall can point me in a direction on a monopod yall like and head... ideally in one purchase which would reduce the cost... huff.

187
EOS Bodies / Re: Update on the EOS 7D Mark II Spec List
« on: August 24, 2014, 08:22:24 AM »
I'm pretty much done with aps-c cameras... but I think this is sufficiently spec'ed... but not enough to really make me want to switch... or upgrade my 2nd body (which is an aps-c... so maybe not entirely done).

I like the 1080p @ 60fps... but I was kinda hoping for a 120fps option... probably @ 720p.  But no.  And you may ask... why?... because I take slow motion video of my daughter's softball swing... and a few of her friends... and when you slow it the f' down... you can see the mistakes... not so much @ 24 fps... but 60 is adequate... but I wouldn't mind even slower and smoother video. 

I'm disappointed about the built in RF... I have the ST-rf-e3 (or whatever it is called)... but I wouldn't mind if rf was a common feature in all high end canon SLR's from now on. 

I'm surprised there isn't 4k... but I wouldn't want that type of file size anyway... but I'm surprised.


188
If my target its stationary, I have no issues busting out the manual focus... but it is when I don't know what to expect... then I'll heavily rely on af.

I really like shooting in manual, I feel a connection to the cameras and photographers in the past...

189
FOR SALE Photo Equipment / Re: Canon 70-200mm f4L is
« on: August 23, 2014, 01:52:39 AM »
photo time.

190
I'll have more details later, but it is used but in excellent condition... maybe very good.  I'm not sure what to charge... I normally sell on Amazon... so they take 8%... I think this takes 4%... So let's say $950...

Manufacture code: October 2008
Hood: included
Circular Polarizer filter: included
UV filter: included
Front lens cap: included
Rear lens cap: included
Useless leather bag: included
Original retail box: included

191
Portrait / Re: Little girl looking at flowers
« on: August 22, 2014, 01:16:12 PM »
I expected it to be warmer... It has a blue tone... my phone maybe?

192
Photography Technique / Re: Photographer's Block
« on: August 21, 2014, 08:54:46 PM »
I agree, the type and amount of equipment really does not enter in to the question.

It does seem like you are getting two different types of advice.

Some say that if you have a photography block to go out and do other types of photography. 

Others say to take a break from photography for a bit. 

Interesting to see the different suggestions.

Bob Dylan had a long tour... he was exhausted... he was ready to retire and give it all up... so he goes to a cabin ++++++++++and is in relative solitude... BAM... starts writing crappy song after crappy song (to me)... but it is his most productive period... So sometimes purposely getting away without the intention... can make all the difference./

193
I did ask.. so I suppose I should take my medicine.

For one, what is the distance between you and what you are shooting? 

I was maybe 10 ft from the field, another 60-90 ft from the pitcher.

Shooting from the stands to the pitcher with a single 600EX-RT???

Yes.

especially a day game,

The first pitch was at 7... I didn't bother taking any shots until the third inning or so... so, let's say 8pm... so dark.

 but even in a night game, the stadium lights should be generally sufficient

I did shot some at iso 12800 and it was adequate... but nothing I would ever even wish to claim as mine.

Second.  You need fast telephoto glass.  F/4 with a 1.4 is slow,

Well... It was f2.8 with the 1.4 tc... so effectively f4.


Inverse-square law... s with with a 400 F/4 than a 200 2.8 with a 2x converter. 

A 2.8 to 4 is a full stop so you can boost shutter and not have to bump ISO.   A 200 f/2 is an awesome option for this and gives you even more light. 

Last I checked, the 200 f2... in my price range, but I don't own it nor do I want it at the present.

Flash at sporting events is a No-No.  Basketball and Hockey are two of the only sports I know that allows flash, but that is for the game shooters and the strob

That's fine.  I'll through out that my daughter plays softball and I tell her she has to maintain pin point focus.... ignoring the cheers, the jibes of the other team... etc... though I'll grant that good natured heckling from the stands doesn't affect one's eye sight.

I don't say this to be mean, but WHAT ARE YOU THINKING.

For one, what is the distance between you and what you are shooting?  Shooting from the stands to the pitcher with a single 600EX-RT???

Inverse-square law... To have any real affect, you are going to need to crank it.  Now if you had a monolight on a battery pack, that would be a different story but your flash is really not strong enough to make an impact, especially a day game, but even in a night game, the stadium lights should be generally sufficient

Second.  You need fast telephoto glass.  F/4 with a 1.4 is slow, not to mention the AF with a Teleconverter is deliberately slowed down.  You will get better shots with with a 400 F/4 than a 200 2.8 with a 2x converter. 

A 2.8 to 4 is a full stop so you can boost shutter and not have to bump ISO.   A 200 f/2 is an awesome option for this and gives you even more light. 

Flash at sporting events is a No-No.  Basketball and Hockey are two of the only sports I know that allows flash, but that is for the game shooters and the strobes are up in the ceiling and pointed down, not at eye level from the stands.  These are also extremely powerful strobes with very short durations so for the most part, people do not even notice.

194
As a spectator, I can say that its annoying to have someone using a flash.  In a daylight game, the flash will likely be at or near full power.  The little point and shoot cameras are not all that bad, but a pro flash can be blinding and leave me seeing spots.  They are not what I paid to see.

I can imagine what a player would think when he is trying to track a ball, and a flash hit him in the eyes.  Its a safety issue as well, he has to move quickly to avoid a wild pitch, assuming he isn't blinded.

I guess I didn't mention it, but this was a night game.  So stadium lights. 

195
This might be a little off topic, but baseball is boring.  I coach my daughter's softball team and I can't imagine being a spectator and waiting an hour between rooting interests.  The family likes to go... so we go... blah.

Having said that... I have shot around 1/500 of a second and I didn't like the outcome... to much motion blur in the face...

But maybe that is just a matter of taste. 

And the images are cropped... some heavily so... and some are underexposed which leads to extra grain, so I'm still working out the night game kinks. 

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