September 18, 2014, 02:14:22 PM

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Messages - jdramirez

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I'm not concerned about the photos.... but reducing the functionality of the camera/lens to reduce its resale value if stolen.

If Canon incorporates this locking functionality across the board, thieves would have a fiduciary causation to avoid Canon gear. 

If you are going to risk your freedom... you want to get the most return on your risk...

I think a stolen car has more value for the parts alone... I'm not sure you can say that about a camera body.

I try to understand this subject.
It makes sense to lock your mobile since it contains a lot of private information - like contacts (some people store a lot of add. info with those contacts), social media, photos, email etc

Your has a memory card with photos only. Let's say the camera get stolen. The thief will open the memory card slot and has access to the photos. A pincode does not prevent it.
A pincode that prevent the use of the camera? You think that the thief will bring it back? He may throw the camera or try to sell it for parts. But you will not get it back.
A thief knowing that stealing this kind of camera doesn't make sense because it has a pincode? Most will not know that and try to steal it anyway.

Even if you have a pincode (or fingerprint scan) it doesn't bring back camera or photos. Yes, would make sense to encrypt the storaged photos so a stranger would have difficulty to access them. But encrypt photos while they get stored on the memory card will slow down the burst speed - not something we want.

A good insurrance will help...(not bringing back your photos though)

I'm a big believer in the secondary market... so that's my concern.  If I buy a lens that is paired and coded with a pin, the first time I want to do is pop it on my body and test it out.  If the buyer doesn't know to release the lens or they lose the CD... then that could pose a problem. 

Maybe a USB key that you can input software... and then a Sigma style dock... or via usb through the body to unlock. 

I think a USB key that you keep @ home in a lock box would be the figurative and literal key to this plan being feasible. 

Software & Accessories / Re: Post processing workflow
« on: July 17, 2014, 09:40:36 PM »
I'm a big believer in keeping things simple and having enough control in camera so that post is kept to a minimum. I'm a fine art photographer and I shoot mostly in cities. I sell my work online and will probably sell in the neighbourhood of 500 images this year. Here's my workflow. First off, I'm still using Photoshop 6.0, it's old but it does everything I want it to. As soon as I open the image I hit 'autocontrast', then I crop the image, resize it and finally sharpen it. That works 99% of the time.

I think I listen too much to people here... I expose to the right by a 3rd of a stop... so my images out of camera all look overexposed with little contrast and even less saturation.  But that is what post is for... fixing what I broke.

they could even rebrand l lenses as well as ls lenses.. the L would still stand for luxury and the s would stand for security

Two more things - would we get a discount on our insurance?  Also, I'd be all for a Kingston-style lock on the bodies, like they added to the series II supertelephotos.
Speaking of insurance... I don't ever want my mkiii stolen... but if it were to happen... maybe right after the mkiv comes out...

Lenses / Re: Safari 300 2.8 Mkii or 200-400 1.4x
« on: July 17, 2014, 01:18:19 PM »
Just go to a zoo.  ;-)

Software & Accessories / Re: Post processing workflow
« on: July 17, 2014, 01:15:11 PM »
One of these days I'm going to document my workflow (it's a long overdue project I said I'd do here on CR), but at the end of the day, other than learning how to use the software, each person's style is different. 

Also, I regularly read about people spending 10, 20, even 40 or 50 hours editing one photo.  Assuming they are telling the truth, that sounds INSANE.  My most complicated edit/retouch has never taken more than 2-3 hours.  I really wonder what these people could possibly be doing.

When I was thirteen, I would spend a few hours a week looking at a photo... Jenny mccarthy specifically.

It sounds like a Magic Lantern request ;D.  Personally I'd never use this - I find the minor delay between turning on my camera and shooting to be bad enough as is!

Just put a fingerprint scanner on the power switch like the iPhone!  I've NEVER had a problem with that!   ;D
for a 5K+ worth of gear I would, please bring it on.

Our lenses would be stolen and sold or traded for crack... and if someone really wants crack, they will steal our bodies too because they don't know any better...

I don't mind the delay... but it would be nice if the criminals were told in advance that the mkiii and the 1dx aren't worth stealing.

Lenses / Re: Safari 300 2.8 Mkii or 200-400 1.4x
« on: July 17, 2014, 09:01:46 AM »
I'm my mind's eye I am envisioning a Jurassic park style vehicle, but without a roof.  A monopod and then getting off the vehicle only ever so often.  It's there going to be much walking out hiking on the safari. 

Weight would be a concern, 300mm MKII 2350g vs 200-400mm 3620g

Add the 860g 5DMKIII and the 1530g 1DX... then the rest of your lenses...

70-200mm 1490g etc etc

Have you thought how you will carry all the gear/mount it on safari?

I would be taking a 300 F4 or 400 5.6 or the 70-300mm or 100-400mm for good balance between IQ and weight.

But its a hard choice between the 300mm and the 200-400mm. If it were me and I could take all the weight I would take the 200-400mm but 5000g in one camera combo is going to be hard work to transport. But the 300 with tele converts is a good combo.

400 DO removes itself because its IQ is no better than a 100-400mm and is £3000 more.

I was in a thread about someone going to Africa and the obligatory word of warning was given about theft of gear...

It occurred to me... what about locking or bodies with s code the way we do our phones.  Photographers need immediate access to their gear, so doing so each time it powers up isn't an option... but what about every 24 hours?  In the morning, enter the code and it won't require the code to be entered until the next twenty four hours...

If the body has wifi, you can back up the code to Canon interwebs and if you forget, you can have an email sent to your account.

Would this deter theft at all... certainly might deter resale value... to get the camera working again, a thief would have to connect it to the computer and re flash the firmware to the device... which might be too much work for a thief.

I guess they could sell it for parts.. Huh...

Lenses / Re: Safari 300 2.8 Mkii or 200-400 1.4x
« on: July 17, 2014, 08:43:37 AM »
I know we need our cameras asap... So we wouldn't want to unlock it each time we turn it on like a phone... but what about daily locks?   In the morning we have to enter a code to unlock the camera functions.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: SanDisk Sale at B&H Photo
« on: July 17, 2014, 08:13:47 AM »
How far off are 1 TB CF cards?

Too far off for my budget... like a decade far off. 

Reviews / Re: Long-term Review | Canon 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
« on: July 16, 2014, 06:50:50 PM »
I played with it for some time at B&H.
The AF is certainly fast enough, even on a 5Dc (especially with focus limiter).
The bokeh, however, was not that great.

I owned the 135L for about a week... So I really wasn't able to run it through its paces.  I wanted the 85L, but then I didn't... ditto with the 200mm f2... the reason I bring those lenses up is because the bokeh for each has been referred to as magic. 

I have used the 70-200mm f2.8L is miii and the 100L.  I personally lean towards the 100L. In bokeh... and in regards to sharpness, the 100L is the clear winner. 

So my point is that there may be better bokeh, but it isn't a slouch.

Software & Accessories / Re: Post processing workflow
« on: July 16, 2014, 06:39:27 PM »
I play with light room... for instance, I had a shot at 24mm and I was maybe three feet from my subjects.  I normally remove the distortion... but in this case, distortion added to the aesthetic of the image.

Also, with lr, you can just copy the setting of a previous image to the new image.  Much was the same, the light, the subject, the distance to the subject, the focal length and aperture... but when I used the last button the new image was dramatically different from it's cousin.  So I had to fix that individually.  My point is that similar isn't identical. 

Also... I have a really bad habit of over contrasting and over saturating my images... So I go back later and check them and fix them.  So that's probably my most important step... making sure I don't go off the deep end.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: SanDisk Sale at B&H Photo
« on: July 16, 2014, 03:40:59 PM »
I love my card, but I have a f'd up card reader that desks my info... So that obviously needs to be fixed.

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