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Messages - jdramirez

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Shooting a dance performance and rehearsals
« on: October 30, 2013, 08:15:24 PM »
I was planning to shoot with a 100mm f/2.8 IS on a 5D2 and 24-70 f/2.8 on a 7D or 1D3.  It's not my usual cup of tea but I agreed to take publicity shots for a college dance company.  I won't be shooting with flash during dances so any tips ahead of time would be welcome.

i'd  suggest shooting during a dress rehearsal using of camera flash..  probably two or three.

 I'd probably suggest shooting while on stage at maybe 70mm and f5.6...  but that is a guess.

Lenses / Re: Which setup would you have?
« on: October 29, 2013, 04:29:37 PM »
I think the problem with a  high iso  capable camera is that people use the high iso in lieu of lighting correcting....  exposing correctly.   I'm occasionally guilty of this myself

I had a set of the yongnuo 622c's... and I'm not sure if it was a problem from day one, but one of the devices didn't respond well with ettl and only worked as a manual trigger... but when I had the other on, I had full ettl control.  More of an annoyance than a problem.

I returned them... got a new set that works... so just be careful if you expect 100% consistency and reliability.

Lenses / Re: Which setup would you have?
« on: October 28, 2013, 09:04:39 PM »
Right now I am going to buy the 70-300 VC, I then will buy a prime(s) down the line...

I'll update the thread on how the performance is this Friday!

I think all of us said that f/2.8 is a minimum.  F/2 is better.  Do you really think more reach and less light is the right decision?

Lenses / Re: Hello Old Friend.
« on: October 28, 2013, 08:59:19 PM »
I want to go back to the 100mm f/2.8L is macro... but that will take some doing. 

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Have you ever purchase camera gear from BuyDig.com
« on: October 28, 2013, 03:27:33 PM »
I got a few things from them.  I didn't have any problems so I didn't contact customer service.

Lenses / Re: Which setup would you have?
« on: October 28, 2013, 09:10:42 AM »
What about the Tamron 70-200 VC?

 never used it...  can't say.

Canon General / Re: Technique...
« on: October 27, 2013, 11:13:54 PM »
Some people will hate this... but if I am shooting a fast moving target, I will shoot in the center of the frame using the most sensitive AF points and snap away... and then I crop after the fact.  Seriously... I don't need all 24 megapixels to make a great print... so I sacrifice a bunch to get the shot I want.

I do the same... It is a lot easier to work on composition and framing at home than out in the action...

Another rule of thumb is for shutter speed... go faster than 1/focal length. For a 200mm lens you need to be faster than 1/200 of a second....for 50mm, faster than 1/50th of a second.... and so on...

Another tip... lean on things..... rest your camera against a tree, on a railing, on a door... anything to help steady it for long focal length shots... if you are on a tripod set the shutter to delay mode to eliminate camera shake.... everything that works for the way you shoot is good.

To expand on yours... since you gave me a bit of inspiration... if you work in manual or aperture priority, think of the aperture and depth of field first.  If you want a shallow depth of field, open up the aperture and vice versa.  Think of that first before adjusting shutter speed and iso... but yes... get your shutter speed up to the 1/(focal length) at least. 

Know where your gear is the sharpest, but don't be bound by it.  If your lens is sharpest at f/8, but you want a shallow depth of field, around f/2.8... then go to f/2.8.  If everyone took shots at f/8, it would be really boring because most images would look like really sharp camera phone images with practically everything in focus. 

I am constantly leaning on things.  Don't be afraid to use your own body as support.  Put and elbow on the ground, or both elbows on your knees.  That tends to be more stable.  Also... press that view finder against your face.  The red mark will go away... eventually.

I have a wired and a wireless shutter release... don't be afraid to get redundant accessories... because they have their place in your bag... and when you need to use a 2 body set up and one body is around yoru neck and the other is 100 feet across the stadium... you are going to be glad you had the wireless one. 

Lenses / Re: Which setup would you have?
« on: October 27, 2013, 10:56:16 PM »
I still have my T2i!

Generally I will be shooting in our school's football stadium.

IMG_7289 by THGBrian, on Flickr

IMG_7234 by THGBrian, on Flickr

IMG_7188-2 by THGBrian, on Flickr

First two were shot with my friend's 70-200 mark ii and the last was shot with my 24-105. Anyway, I hope the pictures show how much the lighting varies at different times of the day. I'm not sure if I could get away with my T2i at 1/500. Plus, I wouldn't really want to carry that much gear around too....

Any recommendations?

I shoot some football and I would suggest not shooting from the stands or above the action.  It resembles a point and shoot camera and doesn't take advantage of the shallow depth of field you have when shooting at f/2.8 and 200mm.  So take your shots from ground level... take a knee because it is a slightly more interesting angle than standing, dont' lay down because if a ball or player comes your way, you won't be able to get out of the way. 

Try and predict the future.  Shooting the receiver jumping away from the camera is significantly less interesting than seeing the receiver jump towards the camera and you can see his eyes focusing on the ball.  If you are stuck in one place... I understand... but if you are allowed to roam the sidelines... I like to spend time ahead of the action so I can see it coming my way. 

Also... and I do this too to my dismay... if the action is happening on the other side of the ball, maybe you don't take that shot... because it is so far... and you would have to crop so much, but because of the distance, the depth of field is greater, so it doesn't POP!

As for the 70-300L... at an aperture of 5.6 at 300, you are losing 4x the amount of light that you might have at 200mm at f/2.8.  And that's a lot when you are shooting night games. 

and I still contend, that IS isn't important when you are trying to get 1/500 of a second shutter speeds or preferably 1/2000. 

and I thought I said this earlier... but crop more.  Isolate your subject... making them the only subject.  The goal post and the bystanders... I would cut them out.  and the group photo in the huddle... crop into the image and adjust your alignment a little... the blurring will be intensified and bring out the players a big more. 

If you don't want a 2 body setup... I understand. 

Are you allowed to use flash?  Maybe a high speed sync using a 580 exii or a 600 rt?  At a distance... there is a little less glare. 

I still vote for the 70-200mm f2.8L USM (non-is) and a monopod.  Night games are such a beech to shoot at f/4... even with the 6D...

Canon General / Re: Technique...
« on: October 27, 2013, 10:40:00 PM »
Some people will hate this... but if I am shooting a fast moving target, I will shoot in the center of the frame using the most sensitive AF points and snap away... and then I crop after the fact.  Seriously... I don't need all 24 megapixels to make a great print... so I sacrifice a bunch to get the shot I want.

Canon General / Re: Consumer DSLRs "dead in 5 years"
« on: October 27, 2013, 10:38:09 PM »
First of all, this is stupid.  I know people love to make 100 predictions and 1 of them comes true and then they say... I called that. 

I do that every year with the NFL... predict 32 different super bowl champions on 32 different sites... and then bam... I'm right and look like a god at least once place on the web.

Also, what is MILC? 

And then there's the 6D. If you can live with a more limited AF system for tracking moving subjects and focusing on off-centre targets, and the x-sync speed - or smaller and lighter is critical to you - it will give great images and at a significantly lower cost. And I think the reality for a lot of people is they can live with those limitations because, as much as they might like to have a camera with fancier specs, in practice their photography doesn't really need it. And Canon threw in a few bells and whistles too, such as wifi and GPS, presumably to help attract some of the upgraders - but I doubt there are too many 5DIII who are coveting a 6D just because of wifi and GPS. (I'm sure there are some 5DIII owners who'd be happy to have the features, I'm just saying I struggle to believe the majority of 5DIII owners would rate wifi and GPS as that important, at least in comparison to the advantages the 5DIII over the 6D.)

I considered both the 1DX and the 5D Mark III, but decided GPS was more important to me than AF performance or megapixels.  I haven't regretted that call, and I've found Wi-Fi to be a lot more useful than I would ever have guessed, too.  Either way, if Canon had introduced those features consistently across their line, I'd probably be using an upgraded 1D or 5D series model instead of the 6D.

(Okay probably not the 1D series, because until just now, I didn't realize they had switched from being a 1.3x crop to a full frame, and I didn't have much interest in a crop body that would still force me to upgrade all my EF-S lenses.  But still....)

So the question you should be asking is not how many 5D users consider GPS or Wi-Fi important (because they made that choice clear with their buying decision), but rather how many 6D users would have considered spending the extra money for the 5D or 1D series if they had not lacked those features.  The answer might surprise you.

for me personally, I had zero interest in both gps and wifi.  I'd rather have a magnesium core.  I had a truck, a chevy s-10, and it had a metal bumper... and i was hit a few times in the rear... and once at only 5 or 6 miles per hour, the guys hood and bumper looked ravaged while I didn't even have a scratch.  I know the polycarbonate core is strong, but give me the feel, strength, and reliability of a magnesium core... just in case.

Installing magiclantern will give you focus peaking wich will help by putting a redline on infocus subjects.
I love magic lantern... I really should install it some day.

 it would be nice if the af  points lit up when  the subject was in focus.   and then we could compose based on af  point location  and adjust the focus ring and stop when it lights  up.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Sigma 24-105 f/4 DG OS Gets its Price
« on: October 25, 2013, 11:00:57 AM »
Lots of trash talk going on here...

Sigma is facing a few problems with this lens, but so far I think they made the right decisions:

1) The EF 24-105's price is low, when purchased as a kit or as a used kit lens.
2) The EF 24-105's IQ is quite good.


1) The street price of this lens will soon be low enough to challenge the Canon.
2) Well, we will see  ;D

One thing to keep in mind:
Neither Sony nor Nikon offer lenses like this, so there might be a bigger market on the dark side.

I totally forgot about Sony and Nikon.   aren't I myopic.

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