Could be a female camera that abides by sharia law.
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The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough. But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.
Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system. A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc. You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.
I went with the Phottix Mitros+ , which has the Odin built into it. It is probably as respected as it gets for non-OEM equipment. It really works well. It actually does 2 things which (as i read) the 600 cannot. It does 2nd curtain sync off-camera, and it adjusts the telephoto zoom remotely.
I just bought 3 flashes. Here is a neat starter set with one flash and one original Odin transmitter.
IMO, in general, rental fees are money wasted. There are exceptions, like kids' skiing gear that they grow out of each year. Yes, if you'll use a supertele once or twice a year, rental makes sense. But with use that's more frequent, buying is more cost-effective.My best purchase EVER in lieu of renting, despite having ZERO resale value, are my bowling shoes. They were worth twice the price even at half the performance.
C.D...Good points in general but in these times, with interest rates near zero, there's very little investment opportunity cost, which lessens your point. If I have $10k laying around earning .10%, why not buy a used mint 400 2.8ii for $10k, use it for two or three years, and then sell it for at least $9.5k. (as long as I've taken care of it)
If you buy a gently used great white, take care of it, and sell it in 10 years, you will have lost only a little money. renting a 400mm 2.8 a few times a year for 10 years would probably cost you at least $6-7k over the years, AND you don't get the enjoyment of owning the lens!
just trying to point out a different perspective.
take care, north
Ok! Mine is due to arrive from B&H on July 8th.I can't wait for their to be a sale on this....
check out the EF 1200mm thread. Ebay has it at ~$70,000.00 now.
Yikes! I would have a hard time spending that much on a car!!!
$70K on a piece of glass. No problem getting that approved by the Central Committee. Not hard at all.
This is idiotic nonsense, like the prices you see for art, or - postage stamps. Gee... http://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-27890106
In the end it's a question of demand vs availability. Do we really need a 1200 mm lens nowadays? I'd say no.
I'd suggest a Canon TC. As you rightfully pointed out, this means your new purchase is also good to go with your other Canon kit.
There doesn't appear to be much in it between the two when it comes to resolving detail:
But of course the 70-200 and 1.4 combo has more reach, and it gives you options with your 5D2 - 70-200/TC and 135/TC, whereas for you, buying the EF-S lens is a one horse trick.
The 2x TC will potentially resolve more detail than the 1.4x and cropping, but the lack of AF on either of your bodies with the 70-200 and the images the 135 would produce make it largely worth ignoring for any purposes other than shooting distance objects using the M with manual focusing.
Thanks! I never knew you could use teleconvertors for TDPs lens image quality comparison tool! Yeah theres not much difference, though the EF-S seemed to be slightly better in the centre. A little PP sharpening should sort that out. Yeah I think I already answered my own question but still good to hear it from someone else!
So you don't recommend the Kenko adaptor? Any reason for that? I feel like the Canon is over priced a bit. And for my purposes v2 should suffice right?
I had a lot of trouble wrapping my head around this too. I did read somewhere this explanation that made sense.Aye... that be true matey... but at equal distances from ye subject, thar full frame hast mo dof.
Cameras with smaller sensors have a larger DOF to a full frame because it is dictated by ACTUAL focal length, NOT EQUIVALENT. As an example on a compact @ F2.8 it's roughly equivalent to a full frame camera @ F11