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Messages - dr croubie

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1
As noted above, it depends on what you want to do with the images once 'scanned'. If it's just consumer-grade film, and/or you're just going to post them online shrunk to 2MP or so, go right ahead. If you want to inkjet print them up to A3 or something, that'll also work with better films and cameras.
But if you want to print them bigger like A2, you'd better get a real scanner, and even bigger than that and you're better off printing optically (enlarger and darkroom), as long as they're not slides.
If you're trying to extract maximum detail from a really good film, you're much better off printing optically. There's a recent test here (near the bottom) comparing resolution of mostly B+W films and Velvia/Ektar, most are resolving in the range of 100-130 lp/mm, even a D800(E) with the same lens (Zeiss Makro-Planar 50/2) only gets 85 (95) lp/mm.

2
Lenses / Re: Affected with GAS, Gear Acquisition Syndrome
« on: July 14, 2014, 07:09:21 PM »
Nah. I want MOVEMENTS! Shift, shimmy, and tilt! I want to shoot landscapes with "infinite" depth of field (tilt), cliff faces (rise), local architecture (all sorts of movements). This is a bucket list thing. I might hate it after a year of putzing with it. I might be seriously hooked - a 30 x 40" print from a first-rate 4 x 5 color transparency is an awesome thing, and I have always liked analog B and W DIY.


That's how it starts, I've now got two 4x5 monorails (with 6x7, 6x9, 6x17, and 70mm roll-backs), an 8x10, two 4x5 Travelwides on their way, plus a whole bucketload of lenses, 65/90/135/180/270/465/600, and my latest (and oldest) addition, a 12"/21"/28" Turner Reich Triple Convertible uncoated Anastigmat. Hey, if it was good enough for Ansell Adams it's good enough for me (and this entire setup still costs less than a 5D3+lens kit).

But after a year or two of scanning film (epson v750), all I can say is, get an enlarger. But an 8x10 enlarger is huge, so all of my 4x5s, 6x17s and 8x10 are contact-printed with my 6x7 colour-head.
BTW, www.apug.org is where all of us film weirdos hang out, if you start there you'll really learn what GAS can be...

3
When Zeiss Glass does warm the heart…or at least, the cultured human cardiac myocytes in the lab this afternoon.    ;D

I'd be more concerned that you've got a piece of equipment called (what looks like) HAL 100 on your desk.
Only a few more upgrade cycles and you'll be at 9000.

4
Canon General / Re: $4 Million Photograph
« on: February 24, 2014, 05:07:33 AM »
Spend years building up a name for yourself, then sell it to someone who then sells it for a shiteload more than you'll ever get...

5
EOS Bodies / Re: Patent: EF-M 18-40 Pancake
« on: January 20, 2014, 06:43:43 AM »
A 'pancake' lens that's 64mm long and (at least) 58mm wide is not really my definition of a pancake.
Also, a lens that is 64mm long at one end, 62mm at the other end, and 56mm long in the middle, that you have to somehow try to get to an intermediate focal length where it's smallest to pack away, is just a damn annoying lens.

6
EOS Bodies / Re: Why do you want a FF Mirrorless?
« on: December 16, 2013, 08:40:20 PM »
1 year on, I thought I'd resurrect this thread, now that we have the A7R available.
Whose predictions came true?

7
Technical Support / Re: Best Possible IQ
« on: December 10, 2013, 05:39:03 PM »
You want "the best", or "the best within budget"?
For backs, there's the IQ180, but there's also the new IQ280. The main advantage of the 280 over the 180 is that the 280 doesn't crap out on long exposures, get one of them for 1min+.
Going the Hasselblad route, there's the H4D200MS, it's a 50MP sensor that shifts itself by 1/2 a pixel in between 4 shots and stitches them internally to a 200MP image.
Or there's the Leica S2 and Pentax 645D. Both are 'only' 40MP, but for anything less than A2 size you can just as easily use a 35mm 20MP sensor.

Bodies, there's the Mamiya / Phase One 645DF, or any Mamiya 645 with a D in its name (ie all but the 645AF). If you're tripod-mounted you probably won't need any of the functions that come with the newer bodies.
Or there's the Alpa 12FPS, a camera designed to have higher IQ by having less shutter-induced shake (less than even a leaf shutter).
Hasselblad, Leica, and Pentax you're stuck with the bodies that you get.

Lenses, the Leica S2 has Leica quality glass. 'nuff said.
Hasselblad, you're getting their name-brand stuff too (used to be made by Zeiss, now by Fuji, either way, it's damn nice).
Phasemiya, there's the 28mm LS which is very sharp but possibly too wide for you, the 'new digital' 35mm I haven't tried but I definitly wasn't impressed by my 'C' copy of the old version.
Alpa, you can use their extremely nice (with pricetags to match) LF 'alpagon' lenses (rebadged Rodenstock Apo Sironar HR). Or you can get it with any mount you like, even EF.
And on all of those bodies you can use lenses with a longer flange via adapter, like Hassy V, Pentacon 6, Bronica, Rollei 6000, Pentax 67, etc etc...


Or realistically, a 6D with a 24mm TSE or 35mm Sigma/Zeiss is going to be more than enough for a simple book that doesn't cost $5 per page to print at stupid resolutions...

ps, a 25-35mm lens on 'FF' (24x36mm) equates to a 38-55mm on '645' (56x37mm once it's cropped, I'll presume you're cropping more panoramic than 3x2).
But don't forget digital 645 sensors aren't as big as 645 film, depending on the sensor you get you may have to get a wider lens to account for a smaller sensor...

8
I get confused when i get handed a P&S camera by some total stranger to take their photo - but not as puzzled as them when I ask if they'd mind turning off the automatic flash for me as I don't know how!

I actually get mildly offended when they feel the need to point "this one is the shutter button". OK, I may also have trouble turning off their flash depending on what menu it's hidden under, but I think I can work out where the shutter is...

9
Here's a story that I related some time back…

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=10915.msg195871#msg195871


My peeve is when I have my 5DIII and the 70-200 f/4 IS and a guy pulls out a 1Dx with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS and says: "That's not a camera....THAT'S a camera.


I'm just waiting for the day when someone does that to me with my 7D+70-300L, so I could pull out my Toyoview 4x5.
(until, of course, someone comes past with their Ebony 8x10, then they'd get their comeuppance in turn from someone with a 20x24, at which point this guy drives past and we all hang our heads in shame.)

I've never been an ambassador of "gear doesn't matter"


I've always been an ambassador of "gear doesn't matter". I've got great gear, and don't take anything worth printing...

10
The one I get all the time is "wow, you can still buy film?"

11
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Everyone Needs a Pancake
« on: November 15, 2013, 12:02:41 AM »
With consideration of inflation, what would that be?

My mum went to Japan in 1967 and bought a Spotmatic with Takumar 55/2, 35/3.5, and 135/2.5.
When she got her K5, I googled and found some website that converted historic PPP prices, that spotmatic kit converted to about twice what the K5 cost (and it's lasted a good 50 years, too, money well spent)

12
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Everyone Needs a Pancake
« on: November 14, 2013, 05:25:07 PM »
Forget "white box" pancake.

Me wanty "white" pancake.

13
EOS Bodies / Re: Is this a Canon EOS 3?
« on: November 12, 2013, 05:31:01 PM »
Yes.

(and props to the guy using eye-control focus on the Sigzilla...)

14
Without knowing the answers to Menace's questions, the easiest advice is:
Bodies always drop in price, glass is forever. Take the cheaper body and put the extra cash towards some nice glass (or if you've got enough glass, maybe lights, tripods, or a trip somewhere to photograph something nice)

15
EOS Bodies / Re: Why are DSLRs so Big?
« on: November 04, 2013, 05:49:31 PM »


Be thankful it's not a Graflex RB Series D


My 7D is tiny by comparison.

But then, put my 7D next to my Agat 18K and that's a whole other size down again (for the same image-area too)

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