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Messages - dr croubie

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16
Get a Sigma 8-16mm. At 15-16mm it covers full frame, at 16mm there's less than 1% pincushion, 15mm is almost dead-even.

17
Contests / Re: Lens Rentals Photo Geek Contest!
« on: October 23, 2013, 09:14:27 PM »
Yep, I've already entered 3 shots, but just from my archives.
I reckon I've got enough extension tubes, teleconverters, and bellows to stretch across an entire room when I get a chance to try it on the weekend...

18
Lenses / Re: Old lenses - really so bad?
« on: October 23, 2013, 09:13:00 PM »
Damn, I'd better throw out about 50 of my >30 year-old lenses, they're obviously not as good as my latest lenses.
Yes, the 70-200 II and 24-70 II *are* better than the ones you have currently, in most respects. But why exchange them if they do what you need? You'll be about $1000-$2000 out-of-pocket per lens, is that worth it for snapshots?

19
Fake would be in a studio or a zoo and trying to pass it off as if it were in the wild.  Fake is not setting up shots through painstaking planning. 

Interesting you say that, for I've had that exact experience. In the Adelaide Zoo about 10-15 years ago, walking around with a bunch of kids as part of some school-holiday daycamp thingy (something my then-gf roped me in to help with).
We get to the Siamang section, and there's a camera crew there, looking rather bored. Being the nut I am, I start talking to the camera crew. They say they're working for a new David Attenborough series (which turned out to be 'Planet Earth'). They'd just spent weeks in the wild trying to find these monkeys to film, and given up, filming in the wild is damned expensive. On a hunch they thought they'd try the Adelaide Zoo, there's a really good habitat for them there.
So there they were, and the damned monkeys were silent, and the film crew were rather annoyed. But then the kids started yelling at the monkeys, and we being the 'responsible adults' were ridiculously embarrassed, trying to shut the kids up. But then the monkeys started yelling back. So as it turned out, we turned it into a game with the kids. Got them to yell for a bit, enough to get the monkeys started, then get the kids to shut up for a few minutes (the hardest part) while the film crew could get their shots, and repeat.
I always like it when that series comes on, because I can still pick the bits that were shot in the Zoo (you can kind of tell, the sky is really blue and it's shot from almost directly underneath and the monkeys are looking straight at the camera). Nowhere does it say in that scene that it's in a zoo, but nowhere does it also say it's in the wild. It mentions the Adelaide Zoo in the credits (either in the 'filmed on location' bit or the 'thanks to' bit), along with a whole lot of other zoos and wildlife parks.

I know it's nothing like when Attenborough was the first white guy to set foot in some remote forest to collect specimens for the London Zoo (which is how he started), but finding something classed as 'wild' is getting harder and harder these days. So I don't mind if stuff is filmed in Zoos or whatever. The only time I'd mind is if it was a faked one of those 'look at how these monkeys have started using tools in the wild', which it wasn't. In the end, there's only about 5-10s of stuff filmed there, spliced in with 'real' jungle footage, so who cares?



edit: I should call them Siamangs and not Howler Monkey, before some nerd picks me up on it

21
I got rangefinder fever once. Bought a Bessa R3A, Nokton 40mm f/1.4, Apo-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5, and a few 100' rolls of Tri-X 400 for about $800 all up. GAS solved.

22
Gossen Digisix. Once you start using a handheld meter, you'll wonder why they still bother putting all those fancy TTL meters in cameras at all. (OK, it's not a spot meter, but the digisix is smaller than my shorty mcforty and does the job). Meters nominally 0 to 18EV, but does -9EV to +27EV with a trick, by comparison the 1DX only meters 0EV to 20EV.

23
Lenses / Re: How to clean lenses ?
« on: August 22, 2013, 07:39:14 PM »
Rocket Blower + Lenspen are an awesome combo. I use the blower to remove dust, the brush on the pen to get anything else off and the pens' carbon dust to clean the lens.

+1
Blower then Lenspen is the only way to go

24
PowerShot / Re: Canon Announces the Facebook PowerShot N
« on: August 22, 2013, 02:27:12 AM »
So someone steals your camera and they can instantly post photos of their genitalia straight to your Facebook wall!
Who wouldn't want to buy this?

25
Arrrrr Squidy looks cool, does it come in international (ie Australian) versions?

26
Depends, how directional are the torches, how big are the rings, how big in relation to the frame, what's the background colour?
In short, gold rings are reflective. You are going to see every part of your lighting setup and your studio and camera too if you're not careful with the lighting. Easiest way to not get reflections of the camera and studio is to make their reflections (in the rings) relatively dark compared to the subject itself, ie lots of light overpowering the room lights. But then you get lots of reflections of the lights themselves.
Also, having highly directional lights can blow out some parts and leave really dark shadows (although that could be what you're looking for). Solution is to get more lights to eliminate the shadows, or use softboxes to diffuse the light a bit. If you've got no softboxes yet, you can also get them from chinese fleabay for £5 each. They're made for speedlites, but nothing some Gaffa tape won't fix. And if the torches are too bright, you can add successive layers of tissues to cut it down more, or just move them further away.

With, say, 4 torches and 4 softboxes for £60 you might end up getting a quite versatile setup (at least, for macro, won't be much use for portraits).
I'd also be thinking about how to mount them, those Manfrotto gorilla-clamps (or whatever they're called) would be ideal, gorillapods and gaffa tape if you've got them, or the traditional stack of books and a few beanbags would make a very cheap setup.

27
Landscape / Re: Pricing of landscape photos?
« on: August 18, 2013, 03:14:25 AM »
Firstly, nice shot.
Secondly, before thinking about pricing, think about printing, as in where and how to get it done. You didn't mention yourself if you had a printer (and how good it is), or were you planning to go to a lab?
If you've never printed (big) before, the best thing to learn is that screens and papers look very different, you might go through a few paper-sample-packs before you find something that matchess well with what you're printing, especially as your buyers saw the shot on their screens. If you've got a printer at home, try out a few papers and profiles and whatnot to see what would look best, or ask your local lab if they can give you some smaller prints for a sample.
(I'm lucky, in that I've got an Epson R3000 which goes up to 13", if I want wider than that my local lab has the larger epson 4800 or something which uses the exact same inkset, so that it'll look the same just larger).

So if you want that big, unless you've got a 20" printer already, you'll be going to a lab to get it done. Start by asking how much it's going to cost you to get it printed. For example, my local lab charges $120 for a 60x75cm (24x30") print onto "fine art" (etching/museum rag/metallic pearl/etc), or $60 for a regular "photo print from digital". Then maybe double or triple that to cover all your work, gear, test shots, etc. (or if you're nice and doing it for friends, just give it to them at cost plus a few bucks)

28
Depends on your definition of "local publication" too. If it's just going to get printed on a raggy newspaper, IQ won't matter so go with the flexibility of a zoom. If it's getting printed double-page in a nice glossy mag then you might be better off with the legendary-IQ of the Distagon (although whether the 16-35 is good enough for a magazine print is debatable, depends on your camera, lighting conditions, tripod, etc, it could still be more than adequate)

29
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: New Canon Hi-pixel Medium format...?
« on: August 14, 2013, 02:33:46 AM »
Then you also have to make lenses that can project for MF image sensor. Let's say you use the 24mm v2 TS-E as an example (since I believe it does project the size of MF or larger). That's well over $2K. And we're not talking any AF at all. And if Canon chooses to go the leaf shutter route, the lens gets even more expensive.


You don't wanna know what MF lenses cost...
(I took Leica off that list because, well, they're Leica, but they're even worse.)

30
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: New Canon Hi-pixel Medium format...?
« on: August 13, 2013, 06:40:30 PM »
To be fair, the Mamiya RB/RZ are pretty freakin' big and unwieldy. Granted, with MF you often aren't swinging it around like you do with a 35mm format camera, but from the pics I've seen the 6x4.5 format cameras are much handier and easier to shoot with not from a tripod.

Much of a muchness, I think, depends if you're used to Waist Level Finders or Viewfinders, and what you shoot. I started on (d)SLRs, but like I said, I'm getting more and more used to WLF, for full-body portraits and street it's just easier. Headshots handheld the level-prism of the Mamiya is better. I got TTL metering prisms with all my MF gear to begin with, because I was used to my 3 & 7D, but the freedom of WLF and my external meter is very liberating.

I've just compared my MF cameras, the Mamiya 645AF is actually bigger than my 6x6 Hasselbladski (Kiev 88CM). The body is shorter (because of the smaller mirror and shorter flange-distance), but then the viewfinder sticks out further. The Mamiya is wider because of the grip, the Hasselbladski is more cubic. Height-wise the Mamiya's prism is smaller (because it's integrated probably helps), but only by 1cm, and that's comparing the Hasselbladski's 45-degree prism (the level prism is smaller I think, but I don't have one, and with the WLF it's shorter than the Mamiya).
Ironically, given my usage, last big shoot I did with the Mamiya was down the Great Ocean Road to Melbourne and back with a 45mm. 645 for me is landscapes (and conserving film 500km from the nearest shop that sells 120), and landscapes go on a tripod, but as I discovered, viewfinder on a tripod is rather unwieldy, give me Live-View or WLF any day. 6x6 is my street and waist-level full-body portrait machine, it just works better handheld for me.
So yeah, you're right, but the other way. It's not that 6x6 is easier on a tripod, it's that the 645 sucks on a tripod (at least for me, YMMV)

But yes, RB/RZ are bigger, I've never held one but I've seen them in shops, it's a whole world again up from the Hasselbladski size. Partly comes from the bellows focussing, partly from the larger mirror, partly from just the build quality (ever seen a 7D next to a 1000D?). But I know some people who shoot street with them, I've seen a GF680 used handheld, and hell, I've heard from a guy who shoots street with a Speed Graphic.

Anyway, just for a size comparison, here's some shots with standard lenses. Mamiya 645AF with Volna-3 80/2.8 (I don't have a Mamiya 80mm), Kiev 88CM with 45degree TTL-Spot prism and Vega-12 90/2.8, Pentacon Six with Kiev-TTL meter and Zeiss Biometar 80/2.8, Kiev 60 with Zeiss Biometar 120/2.8, and Eos 3 with Nifty Fifty. I don't feel any of them are more unwieldy than my 3 / 7D, once I put a zoom onto the Canons they're bigger than the MF.

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