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Messages - dr croubie

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Street & City / Re: Worlds Largest Pano
« on: April 10, 2013, 06:20:00 PM »
Largest, or most pixels?
Until they print that one of London, this is still the largest 'photograph' ever.

Street & City / Re: Bratislava
« on: April 10, 2013, 06:16:32 PM »
Noone's got any photos of the East Side of the river? :)

OK, so it's not exactly a rumour, it's a definite thing if they get more supporters, so I'm doing my bit by sharing.
As you all might know, i've gone a bit film nutty lately. I've been shooting 135 and 120 film a lot, and I've been spending some time over at the APUG forums. Two things there recently caught my eye.

Firstly, is that Velvia (the best landscape film available, the one that killed Kodachrome) went out of production in large sheet sizes, followed quickly by being back in production. I was so happy about that, that Fuji are still making a concerted effort to support their film division, that I was almost contemplating buying a LF camera in celebration.

Secondly, and by strange coincidence very soon after, I see this:
It's a kickstarter project for a travel-sized LF camera, smaller than your average DSLR.
Two versions, 90mm f/6.8 with focussing helicoid (which translates to FF 25mm f/1.8 if you crop the LF to a 3:2 ratio, 21mm if you crop FF to a 4:5 ratio), and a 65mm f/8 version, pre-set at hyperfocal (18mm or 16mm depending on how you crop to compare).
Scan it to a mere 2400dpi (i've scanned velvia to 3200dpi and can't see grain) and you get a 120MP image. Even at 1200dpi you get a modest 30MP image. Take that, D800.
And the best part is, it's only $99 plus a lens (lens is probably about $200). Film's not even expensive either, $2 a shot or so (As in, you could get about 1500 frames in for the same price as a 5D3+lens).

I'm in for the 65mm version, although I may swap to a 90mm (or get both) depending on how easy it is to get a lens. They're already $57k out of $75k, if they get to $85k then everyone gets a free pinhole (which will save me needing a lens for a while).

So, who else would like to support this? Even if not, share it around your friends, you never know who'd be interested...

I've heard a lot about how good the Canon USA repair centre is, and how crap Nikon USA are. But then that's only there, different centres in different countries are all going to be different.

Nice to know Canon AU are one of the good ones, if I ever need them...

Lenses / Re: New patents for Canon fast primes
« on: April 06, 2013, 05:59:38 PM »
Patents do not guarnatee production.  Sometimes they are done to hold IP.

Shure, but these patents show typical lens designs which penetrate the market since a few years: Standard lenses with a negative front element. This is well known from wide angle lenses for (D)SLRs which use retrofocus designs to give enough space between last lens and image plane.

If I read the patent correctly Canon has decided to use a retrofocus design instead of a double gaussian design to avoid problems with longitudinal CAs: The retrofocus design gives more variability to introduce more lenses/alternative lens geometries to adress longitudinal CA correction without compromising other parameters.

Longitudinal CAs are the main problem with high aperture lenses which aren't easily removed during post processing - I am shure that these patents have a good chance to flow into real products!

Just my 2ct - Best, Michael

Which is also what Zeiss announced a while back, with their 50mm f/1.4 Distagon (Distagon is their retrofocus, normally found in 21-35mm, or 40-65mm on Medium Format).
Either canon's going down the same path, or they're at least going to patent some to block zeiss.

Lenses / Re: 300mm F/2.8 non-IS... worth it?
« on: April 05, 2013, 06:06:32 AM »
I don't think that the FBW adds more chance of breakage per se, it's just that once it's dead, it's really dead.
I haven't looked at prices, but if they're roughly the same i'd be doing the Sigma 120-300.

Lenses / Re: Why can a Sigma 10-20mm fit on a "FF" Body?
« on: April 05, 2013, 06:04:29 AM »
Last two posts pretty much summed it up, only canon makes it so that their EF-S lenses physically won't fit on an FF body, SigRonKina and RokiBowYang all let them fit. Nikon, not only do they let their DX lenses fit on FX bodies, the FX bodies also auto-crop to a DX (APS-C) sized frame.

FYI: I've put my Sigma 8-16mm on a FF body, and at 15-16mm it not only covers the entire FF image, it beats the EF 16-35L too...

Best landscape film is Velvia, RVP50, RVP100, RVP100F, it's the film that killed Kodachrome and then Ektachrome. But being slide film, it has a fairly limited dynamic range. I'm not sure what's being made in what sizes anymore, they canned the 4x5" sizes in everything, then just brought them back at a huge price increase, and 35mm only comes in 36 rolls, no longer in 24s (not that anyone ever shoots 24s). I presume the 1V is like my 3, you can do a mid-roll rewind (set a custom-function to make sure the film tab stays out after rewind).

For people, I hear good things about Portra, but I don't shoot people with film.

For B+W, I'd suggest Efke KB25 and some nice wide-open f/1.2 glass. Except I think Efke's also just gone the way of Kodachrome (or was it just Efke's 4x5 sheets? It's hard to keep up).
So for me it's now Ilford Pan F 50 for slow, Delta Pro100 for finegrain normal. HP4 125 or Tmax100 for daytime street, Tmax400 (sometimes pushed to 800) for nighttime street and events. Ilford Delta P3200 for nighttime event but only on 120 MF cameras.

You've got the black point set up too high, just like pushing shadows from a raw-file, you'll end up with noise.
Here's some screenshots of what I do, different equipment probably, but this illustrates what I do using my Epson v750 on ImageScan! for Linux under GIMP with the epkowa driver (ymmv).

Set the gamma to max (5, lowest contrast), White point to min (brightest), set the blackpoint to the lowest where it looks 'black' enough, but doesn't muddy everything else:

Set the gamma to min (0, highest contrast), set the whitepoint to just above where it clips highlights:

Then set the gamma until it looks good:

Once it's scanned, check the curves and do a final tweak:

You can see here that the white-point was maybe set a bit high when scanning, so i've pushed the whites up a bit in the curves. If i was particular about this shot, i'd go back and re-scan with the whitepoint down a bit to get more info and stretch the info a bit more.

Here's a 100% crop at 1600dpi, absolutely no noise in the black (in the shadows or film border):

 (I only scan 120 film at 1600dpi initially, keeps the filesize down to 10MP or so. Once i've decided what's "good" I'll do a proper wet-mount scan at 3200dpi for a 40MP file, sharpen and whatnot on that one).

OK, so no points for artistic merit, first on the roll to check the light-reading. Also, I have 'Unsharp mask' in the scanning software turned definitively OFF. I'll sharpen my own stuff using this method (or a similar variant). auto-software sharpening increases grain and noise, and dust-redustion and everything fancy is also off.

Canon General / Re: Think I need a 12 step program
« on: March 30, 2013, 03:18:56 AM »
3 bodies, 6 lenses, 2 leather rolling camera bags in just over 12 months- is there any help out there? Already plotting my next body and lens purchases....


I just got my 17/18th lens and 4th camera last night, in the last 6 months.
A Pentax 67 105/2.4 to fit my Mamiya 645AF, a Bessa R3A, and a Canon 135/3.5 LTM lens to go on it.

I got 99 problems but lack of cameras ain't one...

EOS Bodies / Re: Favorite or Preferred Film body?
« on: March 29, 2013, 09:12:12 PM »
Also, it's really sad that I may have to sell my beloved Bessa L soon. It's a great travel/hiking camera with my 21mm f/4 Skopar and Velvia 50, or jam in some FP4 125 and it's also a great wide street kit.

Of course, the only reason to sell is because I've just scored a Bessa R3A off ebay, with the 1x VF it's the most accurate RF behind a Leica M7, and also I've got a mint Canon 135/3.5 LTM lens in the post. I foresee some sneaky street-portraits with Tmax 400 in my future.

Maybe i'll just keep both bodies, the Bessa L is only $100...

EOS Bodies / Re: Favorite or Preferred Film body?
« on: March 29, 2013, 06:56:11 PM »
The only reason to get a 1V over a 3 is for slightly better weather sealing, and the extra fps when you've got the Power Booster grip attached, or you want to run IR film (eos 3 fogs IR, 1V doesn't). I've got a PB-E2 on my EOS 3 for vertical framing, but I've never used HSC, only ever one shot at a time, I don't want to burn through a roll of film in 3.5 seconds. Also, EOS3 has the eye-control, 1V doesn't (it's great for street with my 40mm and Delta Pro 100). Both have the same 45pt AF of the 1Ds3 and 1D4.
Otherwise, both are roughly the same, spot-linked metering on the 3 is another plus that my 7D doesn't have.
And the 3 is $100-200, 1V goes for $400+.

Or if you don't want as high build quality or AF, just get an EOS 5 for $20...

Software & Accessories / Re: Film and polaroid scanner
« on: March 25, 2013, 05:11:32 PM »
I can't get the v750 new here in Australia, v700 is the best they let us have, and that goes for $700. For that money I got a slightly used (still covered in the plastic-tape on the silver panels) v750 including shipping from Europe.

Buying new though, one thing you do get is Silverfast bundled in (well, I got the CD too, but I can't register it because the previous owner already did). v700/750 can do up to 8*10 transparencies, not that I'll ever need to, but a bed of 6x4=24 135 frames, or 6 6x6s or 8 6x45s is a fairly regular occurence. I can't speak for the software, I use it via GIMP on Linux, v700/750 is all that's supported so that sort of forced my hand as well.

Fluid mounting is a good way to get really accurate scans, I got the Wet+Dry-mount model from, $100 (haven't bought the fluid yet though). The Epson holders are good enough for 135 film, just to scan and see if it's any good, then I (intend to) wetmount and scan again for the 'good ones'. But 120 film in the holders just sags, so i Drymount those straight up, and will wetmount later the good ones (I've got about 10 rolls still to go from my recent holiday, just initial scanning to triage).

As for shop scanning, I had one roll done and never again. I saw they've got a Flextight or some other ridiculously good drum-scan model, so I paid for a roll to be done. turned out absolutely crap. They'd sharpened the hell out of it (ISO400 B+W film pushed to 800) so all there was was grain. Control over the output was worth the $700 alone to me .

Canon General / Re: A Camera Walks Into a Bar, Scary Review
« on: March 24, 2013, 07:12:30 AM »
Maybe i'm just a measurebater, but goddamn. Have a look at that image with the x100s, 6d, and IQ140. How freaking good is the IQ140?

Carl says it's NUTS how sharp this is.

Look at the reds too, the x100s looks as bad as my 7D (I'll believe that it's a raw-conversion problem though), 6D is smoother, but IQ140 is a red-cream machine... (interested to know what lens was on the PhaseMiya)

Speaking of which, PhaseOne may be the perfectionist at pouring beers, but did he mention that PhaseOne is not exactly like the rest, he's one of the last of his species, and they only survive by eating each other to grow stronger? His latest victims were apparently an israeli guy and a japanese chick...

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Focus confirmation on Samyang lens?
« on: March 21, 2013, 08:05:10 PM »

I used superglue and it worked fine.

Except that I unscrewed the lensmount from the lens first, so no chance of getting glue on the elements. I did get a bit of glue on the contacts of the AF chip, nothing that a bit of IsoPropyl Alcohol can't remove (and I used to work in Electronics Repair, so I knows what i does).

Easiest way, of course, is to just sell the lenses you have, buy the same thing in Nikon Mount, then buy pre-made Nikon-EF adapters with AF Confirm Chips already on.

I definitely recommend the Lithuanian adapters, that's what i've glued onto my Samyang 35 and various others.

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