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Messages - Hesbehindyou

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46
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5d2 vs 6d
« on: November 19, 2012, 03:54:18 PM »
@HobbyShooter
We all know that the AF is better than the 6D, just look at the specs. We all know that Nikon is on 180nm and Canon on 500nm so they have better high iso.

Really... using older (read inefficient) process yields better High ISO?

I'll re-write it for him with context added:
"We all know that the D600's AF is better than the 6D, just look at the specs. We all know that Nikon is on 180nm and Canon on 500nm so they [Nikon] have better high iso."

47
Lenses / Re: Bring 120-300 OS or buy 55-250mm ?
« on: October 27, 2012, 05:05:39 AM »
I've travelled with both the 55-250 and the Sigma 100-300 f4. I now take just the 55-250. Why?

- Gaining 55-99 is more valuable than the relatively subtle difference between 250-300, even with a standard zoom - particularly when with others one doesn't always want to change lenses.
- Weight
- Size
- Weight again
- 55-250 IQ is absolutely adequate
- Rarely needed the f4 of the 100-300
- IS on the 55-250 was useful
- 58mm circular polarisers are cheaper
- Weight and size again

Hope that helps.

48
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: How does the 5d mk iii think
« on: October 06, 2012, 05:21:37 PM »
Problem stated by OP: Camera is using slower shutter not higher ISO

Real problem:  OP is letting the camera do the thinking instead of the person holding it

Solution part 1: get it the hell out of P mode  ::)

If you want to control DoF, don't care about shutter speed as long as it's above a certain minimum, and prefer the ISO ramp up instead, set Av mode, ISO to Auto, and in the menu where you set ISO range, set the min shutter speed you want.

To OP: Most people shoot in Av most of the time, just set to whatever aperture gives sufficient depth of field and raise ISO if you need a faster shutter speed.

To everyone else: I've never seen the point of P mode. Are there any situations in which it's better than the other modes?

49
Canon General / Move along, nothing to see here.
« on: October 06, 2012, 12:49:18 PM »
Except, just like the US canon gateway library thing they did... they got me interested right up until this...

5.2 When you upload or submit any content to our Services, you grant Canon (and those we work with) a non-exclusive, worldwide right and licence to freely use, host, store, reproduce, publish, modify, create derivative works (for example, versions of your content created to ensure your content works better with our Services) and edit your content solely for the purposes of providing you with the Services. The rights that you grant in this licence shall be free of charge, perpetual and capable of sub-licence. We may exercise all rights in the content in all jurisdictions to the full extent for the full period for which any such rights exist. This licence may continue even when you stop using our Services but may be revoked when you delete content or your account unless such content has been shared with others who have not deleted it.

Canon for US had something like this where you can make slideshows and such with your pictures... but it says once you make a slideshow with their services, they are granted rights to republish, modify, etc...  I love canon cameras but dont love them that much...

Except when they have "...solely for the purposes of providing you with the Services.", to me that sounds basically like them playing lawyer CYA so that users who use the service, upload their photos to it, can't turn around and sue them claiming copyright infringement.

Yes. They can't do *anything* with the photo if it's for a purpose other than the image management service, i.e. they or a 3rd party cannot sell or use your photo for anything that's not *solely* related to providing *you* with the service. They can't even use your images to publicise their image management service.

50
EOS Bodies / Re: Funny thing happening across the camera world
« on: August 27, 2012, 07:30:24 AM »
Either Canon is really good at keeping secrets, or they are asleep at their wheels.

We can be sure that they're pretty good at keeping secrets. Canon's habit of having several competing prototypes helps muddy the waters too.

51
Canon General / Re: No story here or have I got my maths wrong?
« on: August 12, 2012, 03:50:17 AM »
I think it's exchange rates. Canon deals in Yen, not dollars, so it's yen to pounds and yen to dollars that we have to look at.

5D mark III
B&H Photo (US) $3,464
Jessops (UK) £2794 minus 20% VAT = £2235

Tax-free price converted to Yen as of 12th August 2012
B&H Photo (US) 271,048 Yen
Jessops (UK) 274,093 Yen

UK premium is 3045 Yen, or £24.

The strength of the yen doesn't affect any dollar / pound conversion. If it did, the currency markets would have made me the world's richest man by now.  ::)

That's why I converted them both to Yen. It's why I didn't do a dollar pound conversion as others had and why I said "Canon deals in Yen, not dollars, so it's yen to pounds and yen to dollars that we have to look at."

Quote
Also, removing 20% VAT from £2,794 equals £2,328.33, not £2,235.

Not on my calculator.  2794 x 0.8 = 2235.20.

52
Canon General / No story here or have I got my maths wrong?
« on: August 11, 2012, 05:23:14 PM »
I think it's exchange rates. Canon deals in Yen, not dollars, so it's yen to pounds and yen to dollars that we have to look at.

5D mark III
B&H Photo (US) $3,464
Jessops (UK) £2794 minus 20% VAT = £2235

Tax-free price converted to Yen as of 12th August 2012
B&H Photo (US) 271,048 Yen
Jessops (UK) 274,093 Yen

UK premium is 3045 Yen, or £24.

53
Sports / Re: Post Your Panning Shots!
« on: August 02, 2012, 06:26:16 PM »

It's a RC powerboat, not the full sized thing. 1/125. ISO was 200 because I forgot to change it down.

54
Site Information / Re: In Sympathy for CR Guy
« on: July 18, 2012, 02:23:03 PM »
I hope to be a first-time dad in 7 months; my heartfelt condolences to you and your family.

55
I'm just writing this because I'm bored, rather than because of any actual experience in photography. I'm actually a civil war re-enactor and stumbled upon this site while looking for a new artillery piece.

Output suitable for :
 Advertising – web, brochures, magazine and ideally posters to about AO size. Photo sharing & Contra deals


Any current DSLR with do all of the above with ease (though not sure what you mean by photo sharing and contra deals), apart from A0 prints. This page is quite useful if you're worried about resolution of images for particular print sizes:  http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/printing/1_calculators.htm#Print

Quote
Location:
70% inside salon on tripod with good light – mostly close-ups. I have 3meters max to play with.
30% outside &/or on location, backstage and behind the scenes – hand held, mostly wider action or full length shots but also some head and shoulders too.


Autofocus and exposure systems of any modern DSLR will cope with this easily. Low ISO images will also look great from any current DSLR. A zoom lens will be helpful for getting a mix of wide/full length and head & shoulder shots when you are time limited (i.e. when lens changes mean lost shots). Primes still have their place, however.

Quote
I would also love to here people's thoughts on which of these commonly mentioned and slightly contradictory statements would be more valid for my situation and budget?
1.   All things being equal, a superior result will be achieved using a full frame camera.
2.   It is better to skimp on the camera and get the best lenses one can afford


1. Meh, the big advantage of full frame is high-ISO performance and the capability to get a shallower depth of field. These are both things that you won't be using.  For you the difference is subtle and full frame vs crop should be based mainly on lens choice (because of the crop factor) and of course your budget/return on investment.

2. You'll be using lenses stopped down to f8 or so, so almost all current lenses will be sharp enough (the better lenses retain more sharpness as they open up, but most modern lenses will be of similar sharpness to each other a couple of stops from wide open)

3. LIGHTING LIGHTING LIGHTING is the technical factor likely to make the biggest difference and composition/posing likely to be the thing that is most difficult to learn.

Lenses: traditional head-portrait focal lengths are around 85 to 135mm (or 53 to 85mm on crop camera). The rule of thumb is the bigger the nose the bigger the focal length ;-) (the second link gives a few sensible points on why certain focal lengths are used)
http://www.petapixel.com/2011/11/07/a-striking-look-at-how-focal-length-affect-head-shots/
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/focal-lengths-in-portraits-5687

Assuming it's for relatively light use (i.e. not a full time photographer) I'd go for a crop camera with 55-250 and a 60mm macro. Keep the 18-135 kit lens for when you need wider.  55-250 is sharp enough stopped down, and still good wide open. 60mm is razor sharp period. Relatively cheap, does the job well. Leaves plenty of budget left over for lighting and spending on fun stuff.

56
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Rebel T4i/650D on June 8, 2012? [CR2.5]
« on: June 04, 2012, 03:36:16 AM »
ultimately i just dont think it had a sensor performing the way it should.
At the same time I do not find the sensor in my to be "terrible" at all. I am quite pleased with sharpness as well as overall image quality I get ..
Maybe you really got a sub-standard camera.

He said he'd tried three. The usual error is comparing 100% crops.

57
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Mirrorless Information? [CR1]
« on: May 05, 2012, 03:45:13 PM »
Canon won't be able to arouse any of my interest in their products until they fix their low ISO dynamic range.

Yet you've posted 126 times in this forum. I'd say you're already interested!

To those asking for FF, it's a niche product due to the cost of the sensor (and possibly also the cost of making the lenses compared to those for smaller cameras).  It'll likely happen, but perhaps when the product and technology have been proved such that they can make a profit on what will be a high cost, relatively low volume model.

58
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Magic Lantern on the 5D Mark III
« on: April 27, 2012, 03:41:20 PM »
Having no knowledge of Magic Lantern, what can I except this to offer me for someone who doesn't shoot video?

I've quickly had a flick through and jotted down everything that didn't look like pure video.  Pretty much all of these can be enabled or disabled, and are effectively invisible when you don't want to use them. The default mode hides the lesser used stuff.

- Improved power saving features
- Flashlight (turns on the led light to the left of the jog dial)
- Shutter count
- Zebra stripes to show over or underexposed areas in live view
- Focus peaking to show in-focus areas in live view (think manual focussing fast primes)
- A 'magic zoom box' for checking focus in live view
- Crop marks or customer grids for framing in live view
- Ghost image - overlay a previously taken image in live view
- 'Defishing' previews a rectilinear image from the Samyang 8mm fisheye.
- Spotmeter - display brightness from a small spot in the centre of the liveview image
- False colour exposure aidl each brightness area is colour coded.
- Live histogram
- Waveform exposure aid, useful for checking overall brightness.
- ISO values in 1/8EV steps
- Aperture in 1.8EV steps
- Shutter in 1/8EV steps
- Adjust white balance in Kelvin
- Green-magenta white balance shift for fluorescent lights
- Blue Amber white balance shift
- Boost live view digital display gain
- HDR bracketing, up to 9 photos in 0.5 to 5EV steps
- Intervalometer for timelapse
- Bulb timer up to 480 minutes
- Use the LCD face sensor to trip the shutter
- Trip the shutter with noise (e.g. clap hands)
- Trip the shutter when exposure changes (e.g. lightning)
- Trip the shutter when the frame changes (movement)
- Silent pictures
- Weird 'slit' pictures
- Link mirror lock up with timer and remote
- Trap focus, takes a picture when subject comes into focus (MF only)
- Custom focus patterns for the focus sensors
- Rack focus
- Stack focus
- Focus distance and depth of field info
- Upsidedown mode for the display
- 'Sticky' depth of field preview button
- Shutter half press becomes 'sticky'
- Auto burst pic quality can reduce IQ to prevent buffer filling
- Display 35mm equivalent focal lengths to include the crop factor
- Review images: Compare images when reviewing photos (displays two images as one with, split diagonally through centre)
- Review images: Timelapse play - whizz through all photos taken incredibly fast)
- Review images: Fuse/overlay two exposures
- Faster zoom when reviewing images
- Quicker erasing (less button pressing).

Pretty much all of these can be enabled or disabled, and are effectively invisible when you don't want to use them. The default mode hides the lesser used stuff.

59
EOS Bodies / Re: Anyone sad about no T4i/650D announcement
« on: March 11, 2012, 03:05:01 AM »
I have mostly been a Canon-guy, I have had several PowerShots, my Rebel XTi, and an s95, so I do really like Canon.  I've never owned a Nikon, but I don't know what to make of this:
http://testcams.com/blog/2011/05/03/nikon-dx-vs-canon-aps-c-dynamic-range/

Do you all believe it?


The noise levels in the Canon look right - I get the same when I push things too far in post.  I don't have a camera with a newer Sony sensor so I do not know whether they Nikon's performance is kosher.  On the cause of it he said:

[he's talking about noise visible in heavily underexposed parts of a photo that have been pushed 5 stops in post. Rebel users will recognise it; red blotchiness coupled with a crosshatch pattern or grid. About 3 minutes in to the second video, though I recommend people watch all three]

"The crosshatch pattern is caused because the individual channels on the Canon body [think he's talking about the sensor] are not perfectly matched and so, outside of the difference of noise that you can see in those channels, the difference in actual signals and how they are read off the sensor is different and that's what creates this repeating cross hatch pattern of these vertical and horizontal lines.

Some of the noise levels for these different channels are dipping below the threshold of what the RAW processor in lightroom can actually produce to recreate the colour and that's what's causing the blotchiness in this case."

60
Lenses / Re: When to use IS and how many stop does it really save?
« on: March 05, 2012, 01:24:23 PM »
> IS is indeed over rated. The best solution is to buy faster glass.

The best solution is more light  ;)

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