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Messages - Hesbehindyou

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61
Site Information / Re: In Sympathy for CR Guy
« on: July 18, 2012, 02:23:03 PM »
I hope to be a first-time dad in 7 months; my heartfelt condolences to you and your family.

62
I'm just writing this because I'm bored, rather than because of any actual experience in photography. I'm actually a civil war re-enactor and stumbled upon this site while looking for a new artillery piece.

Output suitable for :
 Advertising – web, brochures, magazine and ideally posters to about AO size. Photo sharing & Contra deals

Any current DSLR with do all of the above with ease (though not sure what you mean by photo sharing and contra deals), apart from A0 prints. This page is quite useful if you're worried about resolution of images for particular print sizes:  http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/printing/1_calculators.htm#Print

Quote
Location:
70% inside salon on tripod with good light – mostly close-ups. I have 3meters max to play with.
30% outside &/or on location, backstage and behind the scenes – hand held, mostly wider action or full length shots but also some head and shoulders too.

Autofocus and exposure systems of any modern DSLR will cope with this easily. Low ISO images will also look great from any current DSLR. A zoom lens will be helpful for getting a mix of wide/full length and head & shoulder shots when you are time limited (i.e. when lens changes mean lost shots). Primes still have their place, however.

Quote
I would also love to here people's thoughts on which of these commonly mentioned and slightly contradictory statements would be more valid for my situation and budget?
1.   All things being equal, a superior result will be achieved using a full frame camera.
2.   It is better to skimp on the camera and get the best lenses one can afford

1. Meh, the big advantage of full frame is high-ISO performance and the capability to get a shallower depth of field. These are both things that you won't be using.  For you the difference is subtle and full frame vs crop should be based mainly on lens choice (because of the crop factor) and of course your budget/return on investment.

2. You'll be using lenses stopped down to f8 or so, so almost all current lenses will be sharp enough (the better lenses retain more sharpness as they open up, but most modern lenses will be of similar sharpness to each other a couple of stops from wide open)

3. LIGHTING LIGHTING LIGHTING is the technical factor likely to make the biggest difference and composition/posing likely to be the thing that is most difficult to learn.

Lenses: traditional head-portrait focal lengths are around 85 to 135mm (or 53 to 85mm on crop camera). The rule of thumb is the bigger the nose the bigger the focal length ;-) (the second link gives a few sensible points on why certain focal lengths are used)
http://www.petapixel.com/2011/11/07/a-striking-look-at-how-focal-length-affect-head-shots/
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/focal-lengths-in-portraits-5687

Assuming it's for relatively light use (i.e. not a full time photographer) I'd go for a crop camera with 55-250 and a 60mm macro. Keep the 18-135 kit lens for when you need wider.  55-250 is sharp enough stopped down, and still good wide open. 60mm is razor sharp period. Relatively cheap, does the job well. Leaves plenty of budget left over for lighting and spending on fun stuff.

63
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Rebel T4i/650D on June 8, 2012? [CR2.5]
« on: June 04, 2012, 03:36:16 AM »
ultimately i just dont think it had a sensor performing the way it should.
At the same time I do not find the sensor in my to be "terrible" at all. I am quite pleased with sharpness as well as overall image quality I get ..
Maybe you really got a sub-standard camera.

He said he'd tried three. The usual error is comparing 100% crops.

64
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Mirrorless Information? [CR1]
« on: May 05, 2012, 03:45:13 PM »
Canon won't be able to arouse any of my interest in their products until they fix their low ISO dynamic range.

Yet you've posted 126 times in this forum. I'd say you're already interested!

To those asking for FF, it's a niche product due to the cost of the sensor (and possibly also the cost of making the lenses compared to those for smaller cameras).  It'll likely happen, but perhaps when the product and technology have been proved such that they can make a profit on what will be a high cost, relatively low volume model.

65
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Magic Lantern on the 5D Mark III
« on: April 27, 2012, 03:41:20 PM »
Having no knowledge of Magic Lantern, what can I except this to offer me for someone who doesn't shoot video?

I've quickly had a flick through and jotted down everything that didn't look like pure video.  Pretty much all of these can be enabled or disabled, and are effectively invisible when you don't want to use them. The default mode hides the lesser used stuff.

- Improved power saving features
- Flashlight (turns on the led light to the left of the jog dial)
- Shutter count
- Zebra stripes to show over or underexposed areas in live view
- Focus peaking to show in-focus areas in live view (think manual focussing fast primes)
- A 'magic zoom box' for checking focus in live view
- Crop marks or customer grids for framing in live view
- Ghost image - overlay a previously taken image in live view
- 'Defishing' previews a rectilinear image from the Samyang 8mm fisheye.
- Spotmeter - display brightness from a small spot in the centre of the liveview image
- False colour exposure aidl each brightness area is colour coded.
- Live histogram
- Waveform exposure aid, useful for checking overall brightness.
- ISO values in 1/8EV steps
- Aperture in 1.8EV steps
- Shutter in 1/8EV steps
- Adjust white balance in Kelvin
- Green-magenta white balance shift for fluorescent lights
- Blue Amber white balance shift
- Boost live view digital display gain
- HDR bracketing, up to 9 photos in 0.5 to 5EV steps
- Intervalometer for timelapse
- Bulb timer up to 480 minutes
- Use the LCD face sensor to trip the shutter
- Trip the shutter with noise (e.g. clap hands)
- Trip the shutter when exposure changes (e.g. lightning)
- Trip the shutter when the frame changes (movement)
- Silent pictures
- Weird 'slit' pictures
- Link mirror lock up with timer and remote
- Trap focus, takes a picture when subject comes into focus (MF only)
- Custom focus patterns for the focus sensors
- Rack focus
- Stack focus
- Focus distance and depth of field info
- Upsidedown mode for the display
- 'Sticky' depth of field preview button
- Shutter half press becomes 'sticky'
- Auto burst pic quality can reduce IQ to prevent buffer filling
- Display 35mm equivalent focal lengths to include the crop factor
- Review images: Compare images when reviewing photos (displays two images as one with, split diagonally through centre)
- Review images: Timelapse play - whizz through all photos taken incredibly fast)
- Review images: Fuse/overlay two exposures
- Faster zoom when reviewing images
- Quicker erasing (less button pressing).

Pretty much all of these can be enabled or disabled, and are effectively invisible when you don't want to use them. The default mode hides the lesser used stuff.

66
EOS Bodies / Re: Anyone sad about no T4i/650D announcement
« on: March 11, 2012, 03:05:01 AM »
I have mostly been a Canon-guy, I have had several PowerShots, my Rebel XTi, and an s95, so I do really like Canon.  I've never owned a Nikon, but I don't know what to make of this:
http://testcams.com/blog/2011/05/03/nikon-dx-vs-canon-aps-c-dynamic-range/

Do you all believe it?

The noise levels in the Canon look right - I get the same when I push things too far in post.  I don't have a camera with a newer Sony sensor so I do not know whether they Nikon's performance is kosher.  On the cause of it he said:

[he's talking about noise visible in heavily underexposed parts of a photo that have been pushed 5 stops in post. Rebel users will recognise it; red blotchiness coupled with a crosshatch pattern or grid. About 3 minutes in to the second video, though I recommend people watch all three]

"The crosshatch pattern is caused because the individual channels on the Canon body [think he's talking about the sensor] are not perfectly matched and so, outside of the difference of noise that you can see in those channels, the difference in actual signals and how they are read off the sensor is different and that's what creates this repeating cross hatch pattern of these vertical and horizontal lines.

Some of the noise levels for these different channels are dipping below the threshold of what the RAW processor in lightroom can actually produce to recreate the colour and that's what's causing the blotchiness in this case."

67
Lenses / Re: When to use IS and how many stop does it really save?
« on: March 05, 2012, 01:24:23 PM »
> IS is indeed over rated. The best solution is to buy faster glass.

The best solution is more light  ;)

68
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Even Nikon Prefers Canon...
« on: March 03, 2012, 08:56:37 AM »
you're right. nobody is going to buy it now because the guy they hired used canon and clearly that makes the d800 no good.

It's not that, it's a combination of the footage implying it was taken by the D800, and also the possible copyright infringement:

TSO Photography (who did some of the shots from that clip):
"A bit surprised to see Nikon using some of my video clips in the world launch of the Nikon D800 camera in Bangkok on the 7th without contacting me. Especially since Canon is one of my sponsors, and I use a 5DII."

69
PowerShot / Re: Canon PowerShot D20
« on: February 07, 2012, 02:29:59 PM »
f3.9?  Digic 4?  I guess it keeps the cost down, but I was hoping for a reasonably fast f2.x and Digic 5.  Anyone think they may be leaving the field open for a pricier, better specced model?  I hope so, as direct flash rarely flatters so I'd value a faster lens and better high ISO performance.

70
EF 100mm F/2.8 Macro USM.  Understanding that one of the primary differences between the "L" & non-L version is the Hybrid IS and that I use a tripod and light boxes - do you feel that the "L" version will produce noticeably higher quality photographs?

The L version is /likely/ to be sharper, but not by much.  The difference is insignificant.  Given your intended use it's an absolute non-issue.

Quote
would the additional range in F-stop be visually significant enough to entice me/you or would I have to make the jump to the F/1.2 to really get that benefit?

If you're often shooting wide open then you'll likely find a larger aperture lens more useful.  The f1.4 and f1.2 are a lot nicer to use than the f1.8, mainly because of proper focusing rings.  If going to full frame you'll get thinner depth of field equivalent to about one stop so I'd take this into account when considering an upgrade.

Quote
I was considering the EF 28-135 F/3.5-5.6 to cover a greater range for my walk-about lens - however I am open to suggestions.

I own the Tamron 28-75 f2.8.  28mm is not wide enough on a crop (though 50 or 55mm is also too short).  Your problem of being focal length limited will get worse when you go full frame - that 28-135 you're considering will now be nice and wide but feel a little short.  If you put a high value on quality my advice is to put up with lens swapping and either get closer or get the subjects to come closer.  I know this sounds flippant but it really is good advice! Use bait and perhaps a hide.  Develop a relationship with those squirrels so that they come to you.

Also, consider having the telephoto lens on as the default. Typically anything needing wider angles will be around long enough for you to change lenses etc.

Having advised against taking long range pot-shots at targets a lens worthy of consideration is the Sigma 50-500 OS.  Not wide enough for many purposes but that 500mm gets you real close, whilst 50mm is still a very handy starting focal length for a lens.  I'd rate image quality as okay-to-good rather than excellent, but it's a lens I'd love to own.

71
canon will get f£$ked by interviews like this one, well all is dommed now, good luck guys im jumping to the Nikon boat.

That is all a bit misleading.  A JPG is simply a converted RAW file, if you're getting two more stops of ISO performance in JPG, then you have to be getting that in RAW as well.

Sort of (by which I mean not really).  As well as being less noisy, Canon's in-camera noise reduction has been improved. One could get better results by shooting RAW and processing using 3rd party noise reduction software, but the gap between class leading 3rd party software and the in-camera software has been narrowed or eliminated.

72
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 70D... not a new question...
« on: January 26, 2012, 04:58:54 PM »
My question is: does it worth to a person who needs a camera like 60D this summer to wait for the 70D? and Is the speed of the Digic5 processor that much fast that makes people and photographers feel upgrading their old "Digic4-equipped" camera

Hmmm, on the one hand I'd wait because it /will/ be a significant upgrade, mainly in noise (allowing you to shoot in much less light) but also in processing power - I'm hoping for fun features like in-camera editing, in-camera HDR, focus peaking in live view etc.

On the other hand, when Canon introduces a new camera it's very expensive.  The new and old model then take a few months to fall in price... you may be in for a long wait for the 70D to be released only to find it's too expensive while the 60D isn't that much cheaper than it is now.

As for what I'd recommend Buy now. You (I'm guessing) have no camera and an economy that's about to be hit by more sanctions.  Buy now before inflation hits.  It'll be much cheaper and you'll be taking photographs months sooner.

p.s. irrelevant to your question, but I know three people that have travelled the world (independently of each other) and each found that the best, friendliest people on our planet are the Iranians.  I hope all goes well for you guys.

73
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why canon?
« on: January 26, 2012, 04:19:37 PM »
Getting good advice on web forums helped me choose Canon for the killer combination of price, features, quality and lenses.  Not the high-end stuff, but beginner stuff like the decent kit lens, 70-200 f/4 and 55-250.

What has locked me in is Magic Lantern. Features like focus peaking in live view, trap focus, intervalometer, focus racking... awesome.

74
EOS Bodies / It's gotta be full frame, not APS-C
« on: January 25, 2012, 02:44:47 PM »


I appreciate that most already presume it's full frame.  For anyone still undecided:

If we take a look at the pic above he's zoomed all the way in and the bird's head only just fills the screen.  With hot weather, APS-C and a 600mm lens it's not often you're focal length limited with a relatively big bird - heat haze makes it undesirable to shoot with the intention of cropping and becomes the dominating factor.

It's also possible the bird is both long-legged and on stilts and he wanted to capture the whole creature, or that it was early in the morning.

75
Come on... Someone forgot his preproduction iphone in a bar... Sigma lost a lens... If there shows up a Detailed review in the next time its just viral advertisment

Milking it for all they can would certainly get enough free publicity to make the loss of the lens easier to bear. Wouldn't surprise me if someone lost a lens at the next trade show either.

What I can't understand is that they're not exactly vocal about what's happened - tweets (they do tweet), an entry in the news/featured items on their webpage, a facebook page devoted to recovering the lens & including CCTV stills of the chap making off with it etc would keep all the magazines and websites in a frenzied Sigma-coverage....

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