Because it is not trivial to process the larger amounts of data per second. Processors need to be fast enough and be able to dissipate the heat.
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Interesting, I've always assumed it was closed loop, since well, that's how I would have designed it, and all the pieces are there to close the loop. Perhaps the focus speed is hit too hard, but frankly I can't believe that since the second "look" would be nearly instantaneous.If it was closed loop, with a second look, we would be only a few steps away from a self-learning AFMA built in into the camera. Now that would be nice, wouldn't it.
That said, I'm no expert, I'm sure if it's true that focus using the phase detect is open loop, Canon has a very good reason for that.
[...], and during operation the sound was almost a low growl.It's life Jim ...
I wouldn't be concerned about it...
Yes!Only if you have a full frame! Some of us have a more slender boy typeWhy 'stop' @2.8. That's not fair '2' those more 'open-minded' or those who have had 1.2 many cocktails.Careful with those, corner sharpness will deteriorate, and you can expect increased vignetting
Why 'stop' @2.8. That's not fair '2' those more 'open-minded' or those who have had 1.2 many cocktails.Careful with those, corner sharpness will deteriorate, and you can expect increased vignetting
Thanks for all the great advice. That e-book might be very useful.As far as I know, changing the focusing screen is recommended for wide aperture lenses (f < 2.8 ), so I don't think it will help with the TS-E 24mm.
I was checking focussing screens .
Am I correct there are no Canon focusing screens for the 5D Mark III.
Is it even necessary / helpful?
Some great advice there everyone. Very informative and food for thought.As far as I know, changing the focusing screen is recommended for wide aperture lenses (f < 2.8 ), so I don't think it will help with the TS-E 24mm
Someone recommended changing the focusing screen.
Is that a good way to go as well.
Please note that when you are looking at live view, you are looking at F2.8. It will be tough to get all portions of the scene super sharp at 2.8, even with tilt. If you press your depth-of-field preview button to stop down the lens to your preferred aperture setting, you'll then see what the image will look like at that aperture. If you are set to F16-F22, I'll bet everything will be sharp.not 2.8, it is f/3.5 - that is the max aperture for the TS-E 24mm. But what you said still applies, of course
Consider the Sirui K range of ballheads, build quality similar to BH-55 at half the price.Really? I do have a Sirui K 30x and M-3004 legs (and like it), but have yet to get my hands on a RRS.