September 21, 2014, 10:48:11 PM

Recent Posts

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The Samsung does 420MP/Sec.

The Samsung is also saving 12-bit files during continuous shooting vs. the full 14-bits in single shot mode.

So what?

You keep telling us that DR (and by extension 12bits vs 14bits) isn't important except to a small number of people so therefore this difference that you've highlighted is also relatively unimportant. Or do you wish to become one of your own DRones and insist that the extra bit-depth and thus DR is all of a sudden important?
Hi,
   IMHO, when I buy a camera that have 14-bits RAW, I expect to have 14-bits RAW also when shooting at 15fps, so I'll be very mad if I buy this camera and found this to be true especially the Samsung specification didn't even specified that it's 12-bits RAW when shooting at 15fps...

  So now the question is: Does the Samsung NX1 really shoot 15fps only at 12-bits RAW?? If yes and they didn't mentioned it, I think Samsung going to be in big problem when buyer find out because shooting at 15fps was the "WOW" feature and one of the selling point that Samsung keep mention it!

  Have a nice day.

I'm curious, though. When you shoot at high FPS, are you also at higher ISO, like 800, 1600, 3200? You aren't going to get the same tonal range at those ISOs, meaning the use of 14 bits isn't much of a benefit, if any at all.  Not just on the DR front, but on the tonal range front...you don't have the tones or the color fidelity at high ISO to justify 14-bit data anyway. The use of 12-bit files is a bummer for lower ISO settings, but if your most likely to be shooting at higher ISO anyway, it really isn't that big of a deal. It's more efficient...smaller data files, meaning you can fit more on a memory card. At 15fps, that could be a real bonus.
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Lenses / Re: Do you keep all your boxes?
« Last post by weixing on Today at 10:47:06 PM »
Hi,
    Yes... I keep all my original packaging and invoice or receipt. There are some reasons why people prefer buying used item that had the Original packaging and IMHO, the most important reason is to reduce the risk of buying a stolen camera or lens. When the seller had the original boxes, it's less likely that the camera or lens is a stolen item... some buyer will request a copy of the original invoice or receipt for proof of purchase.

   Have a nice day.
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The Samsung does 420MP/Sec.

The Samsung is also saving 12-bit files during continuous shooting vs. the full 14-bits in single shot mode.

Which probably isn't as big an issue as people think it is. First, Canon doesn't get the full benefit of 14-bit RAW. They lose at least two bits to noise at low ISO. The main thing they gain is finer tonality.

At high ISO, it's a wash. The lower saturation point implicitly reduced tonality. If you figure that your more likely to be using a higher ISO than a lower ISO at 15fps, your not going to be gathering enough data to take advantage of 14 bits anyway.

The only time the use of 12-bit is going to be a real issue is when shooting at a high frame rate at ISO 100 and maybe 200.

I think it would be interesting to see Canon offer a lower bit depth option if it meant we could get a higher frame rate in the 7D II. If you shoot at higher ISO when using higher framerate, it's more efficient.
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EOS-M / Re: EOS M Accessory question
« Last post by dcm on Today at 10:39:13 PM »

The Dashpoint 20 is a good fit for the M+22.  I use a hard case for storage and travel with my M system now.  I use the Think Tank Mirrorless Mover 20 to carry the M, 2 lenses, batteries, etc when I'm out and about.  I also have a 3" aluminum rod tube to carry my M, 2 lenses, and accessories when I'm hiking/backpacking.

The Dashpoint 20 has arrived, and I love it!
What is a rod tube?!?

Sorry, custom aluminum tube for fly rods that I had made to carry my M safely in a backpack when I was getting one made for a new Tenkara fly rod.  Here's the post
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21824.msg427946#msg427946

Here's the local shop that made mine - http://www.landmarkflyrodtubes.com/
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: POLL: What's more important, gps or wifi?
« Last post by dgatwood on Today at 10:32:19 PM »
In 2014 I only consider Canon cameras with all 4 radio modules built-in. No excuse tolerated.

* WiFi (b/g/n and ac)
* GPS
* NFC
* RT-EX radio flash commander

Since Canon is not willing and/or able to .. I will not buy anything from them. It's that simple.

Agreed.  I'm more than a bit fed up with Canon's absurd little game of haphazardly putting different random subsets of features in each of their cameras.  It can't be expensive enough for this approach to make sense.  Just put all the radios in every device already, and declare yourselves to be the first camera company to have GPS, Wi-Fi, and RF flash control in all your cameras.

(I don't particularly care about NFC.  All that does is make it slightly easier to pair the camera with some cellular phones.)
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Which Canon L Lens for 7D Mark II?
« Last post by dgatwood on Today at 10:26:46 PM »
I am about about to upgrade from my Canon T2i to the 7D Mark II.

Makes no sense. If you want a real difference in the outcomes, go FF and save the money you'd first waste on a 7D2.

Agreed.  You don't need an insane amount of reach for weddings, and you don't need ultra-fast focusing (unless it's a very unusual wedding in the middle of a basketball court during the game or something).  What you do need is great low-light handling.  A 6D would be a much better choice, IMO.

And although the 6D's AF system gets a bad rap, it really isn't that bad.  I shot a bunch of shots at a basketball game with mine just for fun, and although it didn't nail focus on every single shot, it nailed enough of them that I found it to be more than good enough (or at least good enough for someone who wasn't getting paid to get a specific shot).  :)
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: POLL: What's more important, gps or wifi?
« Last post by dgatwood on Today at 10:12:51 PM »
Hopefully Canon and any other camera manufacturer is implementing the possibility to switch those gimmicks OFF.

Of course you can switch off wifi & gps (the 6d has even a wifi indicator on the top lcd which is a complete waste of space). The catch with the 6d and probably 7d2 is just that gps stays on on camera off to continue the track log - so you have to remember to switch it on/off manually each time (or use Magic Lantern).

AFAIK, the camera doesn't actually save a track log unless you tell it to do so.  But it does continue to have the GPS hardware update its position on a regular interval, in part because the GPS ephemeris data is only valid for a certain period of time (typically four hours), and if it gets stale, reacquiring a GPS lock takes much, much longer.  And, in part, because actually acquiring a GPS position, even in hot start mode, would unnecessarily delay writing photos out to flash (by 1–5 seconds, depending on hardware), and they probably don't want to bother going back and rewriting the images after GPS data becomes available (even though they really should).
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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Which Canon L Lens for 7D Mark II?
« Last post by neuroanatomist on Today at 10:05:44 PM »
  • Night Sky Photography
  • Head Shots
  • Weddings
  • Maternity
  • Couples
These two list above points to the full frame 6D for sure.

In fact, all of them point to the 6D being the better choice. 


I guess my problem is that in light of the 7DmII and the 5DmIII I feel like I am getting robbed on features and the AF system just seems substandard at this level.  Of course the price point for the 6D is right. 

That does seem to be Canon's strategy.  The 6D delivers excellent IQ particularly in low light, the 7DII delivers top AF and speed.  If you need both, that's the 5DIII...and it actually costs a bit less than the other two combined.


I do have 4 and 6 year olds that will be getting into sports and ballet which a 5DmIII would do well but I think the 6D would be questionable.

Low light action is best served by excellent AF and a FF sensor...and fast lenses.  None of that is cheap.  In gymnasium lighting, I often need ISO 6400 or 12800 to get a 1/640 or 1/800 s shutter speed to freeze motion...and that's with an f/2.8 lens wide open. 

With the exception of your kids activities, the 6D is the ideal choice.  Although the 6D's AF isn't up to the level of the 5DIII or 7DII, good technique can help there.

I really think a FF body is a better option for your needs; but...you initially asked about lenses, and they're important too.   

Important lens characteristics include:

  • Night Sky Photography - wide angle, fast aperture (but for the moon you want the longest lens you can get, and it can be slow)
  • Head Shots - short/medium telephoto, fast aperture
  • Weddings - standard zoom, f/2.8 preferred; telephoto zoom, f/2.8 preferred
  • Maternity - standard zoom, f/2.8 preferred; short/medium telephoto
  • Couples - standard zoom; telephoto zoom (neither need be fast, you'll be stopped down to at least f/4 for sufficient DoF

To have the optimal lenses for a diverse array of subjects means several lenses (which is why I have 5 zooms and 9 primes!).  The aperture suggestions above are based on ambient lighting; if you're going to set up a home/portable studio (backdrop + stand, flashes or monolights + modifiers), you'll be stopped down a fair bit and slow lenses are fine.  Don't forget that some of the non-L primes deliver excellent IQ, and with session work (headshots, maternity, couples) you'll have time to move so the flexibility of a zoom isn't critical.  The 85/1.8 is one of the best values in terms of IQ/$.  The Samyang 14/2.8 would likely work well for night skies.

Given your budget and needs, do consider refurbs (assuming you're patient but quick, desirable refurbs come up periodically and sell out fast).  A refurb 5DIII is $2700, a refurb 24-70/2.8 II is $1700.  You could start with f/4 zooms, and move to f/2.8 versions later.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Which Canon L Lens for 7D Mark II?
« Last post by timmy_650 on Today at 10:00:52 PM »
Get the 6D I have one and it is great for what you want. It isn't really lacking for what you want to do. Yes 5d markiii is a better camera but for the money i would rather have the 6D and put the money in lens.

I would say 6D ($1400)
Samyang 14mm ($350)
canon 24-105 f4  ($650)
Canon 70-200 2.8l is ($1400)
$3800
under 4k with some waiting for sales and buying used.

for kid sports the 6D works fine for me, i would rather have a 5dm3 but it works ok.
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Lenses / Re: Does it matter anymore who makes the sensors?
« Last post by dgatwood on Today at 09:56:10 PM »
I'm unconvinced that innovation would being stifled - whether Sony was the single source or not, I assume they would want to sell more sensors. This means their customers need to offer better imaging performance which - to the extent that the sensor dominates things - means the sensors need to develop.

To play devil's advocate, if they have no one to compete against, then they could much more easily drive sales though planned obsolescence, and make higher profits without all those pesky R&D expenses.  :)


Being held to ransom - well that's what contracts are for. So that's nonsense too.

Assuming innovation doesn't stop, those contracts get renegotiated for every subsequent sensor.  The problem with buying parts from a highly vertically integrated company that competes against your products is that they have every incentive to charge more money to their competitors than to companies that don't compete against them, to make up for some of their losses.

Right now, Sony isn't the only company building sensors and making them available to third parties, so there's competition in that market.  If that ceased to be the case, Sony would probably crank up the price for Nikon and other companies whose products compete with Sony's products.


There is risk because Sony could close their fab plant... Struggling companies do not close or sell business units that make money. If it's a profit centre, it is safe. This feeds back into my first point - to continue making money, Sony needs to continue selling sensors which means more innovation.

The bigger risk is a manufacturer choosing to focus their R&D on parts for a different, more profitable area.  For example, right now, Sony's sensor division reluctantly builds big sensors for companies like Nikon, in part because they use them in their high-end camera gear.  But Sony could decide to scrap or sell off that division tomorrow, and to focus their sensor R&D on cell phone camera parts whose high volume makes them a better, more reliable profit center than broadcast video gear.  If that happens, Nikon would be seriously screwed.


On the different "look" offered by various cameras - I think this is bogus too. Most on the forum will know how to change the colour mapping. (If not, download Lightroom and move the sliders around or look for a preset.) Secondly, a lot of Canon's "warm look" arises from the lenses. If you switch to Zeiss glass, suddenly your images are quite cool.

I agree that it's mostly math.  There's a caveat, though; in some cases, there may be differences that can't readily be compensated for, particularly between sensors that have different combinations of color components, where entire parts of the color signal are not captured at all.  This is particularly likely to be a problem when dealing with fluorescent light or, to a lesser degree, LED light.
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