August 21, 2014, 06:55:34 AM

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Photography Technique / Re: Photographer's Block
« Last post by Menace on Today at 03:53:49 AM »
Boudoir... offer some free service and tape it down to your leg and really deviate from the norm.


Artistic nudes in BnW :)
Canon EF Zoom Lenses / Re: Canon EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x
« Last post by Eldar on Today at 03:52:03 AM »
Good to see someone posting with this lens again. Looking forward to many more Jim! (also good to see that someone competes with me on cat images ;))

I have not used it much this summer, but I did (unsuccessfully) hunt puffins on a far western island in the north of Norway. No birds, but an unusual use of the lens, to shoot a sunset. This is over the dark and beautiful profile of the island Træna. Beyond that, there is nothing but water until you hit Greenland. The cliff to the right is a good climb and it is 338m high.

5DIII, 1/160s (handheld), f5.0, ISO2000
The moisture obviously is very quick to get in, but takes a lot of time to get out.[/i]

That's the worst part of inadequate sealing. There is an answer though; get an original 5D. The moisture is quick to get in but comes out just as easily  ;)
No it isn't, that is a perfect example of a camera collector, a person I have great respect for.

I well understand the collecting mentality, and I have been a strong supporter of a slightly different variant of people here who want the best simply because they want the best.
Private, I was just being funny - but yes, the Leica collectors have their place, as do collectors of all types.

R1-7D, I meant this as a side joke, not about you, and I hope that was clear.  Also, I haven't been able to find my FoCal report yet, but I need to look in one other place.  I remember it being sharp at f/2.8 and then dropping off considerably at f/5.6 which didn't make any sense to me.


No offence taken. My response is soley to Private, who I'm not sure really appreciates my situation, which is different than what he's talking about.
Photography Technique / Re: Photographer's Block
« Last post by justaCanonuser on Today at 03:18:44 AM »
Wes, I know your problem so well, I frequently have this crisis, too. I personally get through such a block by drawing more, in particular in the street (see attached example from my sketchbook). This helps me to get a fresh approach. Plus, I sometimes switch back to 35 mm film. This can be so liberating because you do everything in the moment when you shoot, and that's it (if you do not develop your films in your own lab). I've just ebayed an EOS 3, to add a Canon film SLR to my old Nikon FM-2 (I have much more Canon lenses now), and I look forward to using it first time on a street photo tour I've planned this weekend with friends. Gonna be fun, because I will be the only one who can't chimp on an LCD screen what I've catched (or not). So, I'd recommend you to do something completely different or, if you like to stick with photography, something very experimental to get over this block.

Fyi all: When my 6D was at Canon service, it obviously self-repaired so that's was the reason why they didn't charge me anything :-p. They did a perfect job at cleaning the camera inside out though and replaced the top dial plate that had fallen off, so I'm a happy camper.

Conclusion: Even if your camera is "broken", it might still be worthwhile to let it dry even for a week before deciding to have it serviced if you have to pay for it yourself. The moisture obviously is very quick to get in, but takes a lot of time to get out.
Photography Technique / Intentional "wrong" afma for creative backfocus?
« Last post by Marsu42 on Today at 03:10:37 AM »
I was always wondering if this is possible and would like to ask around for experiences: Afaik the servo af simply focuses to the front of the object, at least my 60d/6d do. Now there would be the possibility of intentional backfocus for ...

a) using the optimal dof because focusing on the very front results in a 1/3-1/2 dof thick layer layer of sharp air
b) getting an animal's eyes (or even human's?) in focus because otherwise the nose (or whatever front part) is in focus

Obviously the problem is figuring out the correct afma value, did anyone try this and succeeed?

Imho it's pity today's dslrs are still so dumb you cannot tell them "please focus 1cm behind" because the lens does return an approximate distance information. With Magic Lantern, you can use extended afma values of -100...+100 (Canon fw only allows for 20), but they don't have access to the af module yet.
EOS-M / Re: Image stabilization and touch shutter Q
« Last post by Zv on Today at 03:08:05 AM »
Thanks guys, I wonder if the IS is always on even when you're composing the shot or just right before the shot is taken.

I'm at work just now but I'll have a play about with it later and try and find out!
can you post a detailed description of how to use and process dual iso? ive tried it but the results are not good

Well, you could have a look at the ML site but for a fellow CR regular here it goes :-)

1. obviously: inststall ML
2. probably less obvious: enable "dual_iso" module in the ML menu

3. in the expo menu, enable "dual iso" and set the 2nd iso to use. I usually set the camera to fixed iso 100 and set ML to either 800 (=2.5ev gained) or when push comes to shove 1600 (=3.0ev gained). Then I expose for the highlights, i.e. I dial down ec to -2 or -3 until the highlights aren't clipped anymore - check the ML raw histogram for that.

4. you end up with an interlaced file DUALxyz.cr2 (if you've set the prefix option in the dual_iso menu). You then have to run a post-processing utility "cr2hdr" on the file to get a non-interlaced 16bit raw dng you can import into your postprocessing software.

Get cr2hdr.exe here (Mac/Linux also available somewhere):

The drawbacks of using dual_iso are:
a) it's harder to check for focus in camera because the image is interlaced
b) it's impossible to check for colors because they are screwed before processing with cr2hdr
c) postprocessing hassle, esp. time required for cr2hdr processing
d) dual file storage because you want to keep around the original cr2 in case cr2hdr receives further improvements
e) results usually needs manual wb (esp. tint) setting even though cr2hdr tries to autodetect it
f) if you use it regularly, you really wish you'd have a Nikon with native 14ev @base iso

All in all, I tend to use dual_iso very often, it simply saves me all the 2x brackets I used to do before and had to assemble with a hdr software, accepting the problem with frame differences like moving leaves or grass. I cannot believe how limiting it was to be stuck with the 10.5ev of my old 60d now that I can use 14+ev to capture shadows and bright sunlight in one frame.
Animal Kingdom / Re: BIRD IN FLIGHT ONLY -- share your BIF photos here
« Last post by scaptic on Today at 02:52:55 AM »
Bald Eagle flyby...
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