May 20, 2013, 05:26:39 PM

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41
I was just thinking that you could probably batch the .DNG files not just in AE/ACR but in PS/ACR with with full PS power and various other plug-ins and have video frames processed with full on stills photography quality tools and all sorts of fancy, fancy processing and super advanced sharperning, NR, coloring tools.

Ding, ding, ding!

I'm mainly a stills photographer but I’ve been starting to get into timelapse and video over the past year.

You are EXACTLY right.  This is HUGE for people that are mainly stills photographers.  Just as you describe, you can process this raw video EXACTLY like you can stils.  Exactly.  This is driving the video people nuts, but it’s huge for me.  The workflow is a bit complex but not as hard and time consuming as you’d expect.  I’ve made one crappy comparison video (will post later).  Here is my workflow:

1)     Shoot video, staying under 2GB (it tells you in real-time how much space it’s hogging)

2)     Convert .RAW file into .dng files using raw2dng.  TIME: about a minute

3)     Import .dng files into Lightroom (this is  where my workflow is a bit different than most…) TIME: about a minute

4)     Process .dng files just like you would a raw from a camera…because that is exactly what they are. (I convert my Canon .CR2 files into .dng files anyway) TIME: how many images have you edited in LR?

5)     Export .dng files as full-res jpegs TIME: a couple minutes (I guess if you were really anal about quality but not about HDD space you could convert to .tif's)

6)     Import full-res jpegs into Quicktime 7 Pro as an image sequence (exact same way you make a time-lapse) TIME: one second

7)     Export image sequence as Apple ProRes HQ 422 .mov’s (if you don’t’ want to do any video editing you can just export these as h264-compressed .mov’s or .mp4’s instead) TIME: a couple seconds for ProRes, a couple minutes for h264

8)     Import Apple ProRes 422 .mov’s into Final Cut Pro X TIME: instant

9)     Edit… TIME: see LR comment, I suck at video editing

10   Export to whatever format you want TIME: a couple minutes

Canyon do this with PNG or TIFF? In theory You can get better quality if you output the final movie at full resolution. Although...if you're outputting in a lossy format anyway, it might not make a difference.

Of course you can!  See step #5!  I chose to edit/grade the video in LR, not in my video editing software, so jpg is just as good as .tif in my case.  If you want to grade it in your video-editing software, you should DEFINITELY export as .tif instead of .jpg.

For my workflow I doubt there would be much difference since I use LR to grade the .dng's and then I don't really touch them in FCPX...I also am quickly burning through HDD space  ;D
42
but it's a Canon L-series and should be giving you excellent IQ

I wouldn't draw such a straight conclusion (example: 17-40L wide open), for the current lenses I'd say the overall advantage of L is better build quality and (most of the time) sealing, for iq ymmv.

Linguistic note:  "It's a Canon L-series and should be giving you excellent IQ," is a statement with two separate clauses, not a dependent clause, as in, "It's a Canon L-series and so should be giving you excellent IQ." 

The 24-105L is a very good lens, espeically stopped down to f/8 which the OP mentions.  Here's a 100% crop with the 24-105L at f/8 on the 5D II (102mm, 1/60 s, ISO 100):
43
I was just thinking that you could probably batch the .DNG files not just in AE/ACR but in PS/ACR with with full PS power and various other plug-ins and have video frames processed with full on stills photography quality tools and all sorts of fancy, fancy processing and super advanced sharperning, NR, coloring tools.

Ding, ding, ding!

I'm mainly a stills photographer but I’ve been starting to get into timelapse and video over the past year.

You are EXACTLY right.  This is HUGE for people that are mainly stills photographers.  Just as you describe, you can process this raw video EXACTLY like you can stils.  Exactly.  This is driving the video people nuts, but it’s huge for me.  The workflow is a bit complex but not as hard and time consuming as you’d expect.  I’ve made one crappy comparison video (will post later).  Here is my workflow:

1)     Shoot video, staying under 2GB (it tells you in real-time how much space it’s hogging)

2)     Convert .RAW file into .dng files using raw2dng.  TIME: about a minute

3)     Import .dng files into Lightroom (this is  where my workflow is a bit different than most…) TIME: about a minute

4)     Process .dng files just like you would a raw from a camera…because that is exactly what they are. (I convert my Canon .CR2 files into .dng files anyway) TIME: how many images have you edited in LR?

5)     Export .dng files as full-res jpegs TIME: a couple minutes (I guess if you were really anal about quality but not about HDD space you could convert to .tif's)

6)     Import full-res jpegs into Quicktime 7 Pro as an image sequence (exact same way you make a time-lapse) TIME: one second

7)     Export image sequence as Apple ProRes HQ 422 .mov’s (if you don’t’ want to do any video editing you can just export these as h264-compressed .mov’s or .mp4’s instead) TIME: a couple seconds for ProRes, a couple minutes for h264

8)     Import Apple ProRes 422 .mov’s into Final Cut Pro X TIME: instant

9)     Edit… TIME: see LR comment, I suck at video editing

10   Export to whatever format you want TIME: a couple minutes

A question about #1.

Why stay under 2GB?

Thanks,

cayenne
Good question!

This issue is caused by the mac version of raw2dng not being able to convert files over 2GB in size.  On a PC you can go up to 4.28GB.  It's frustrating, but is an issue in the post-processing, not in the ML firmware.
44
HDR - High Dynamic Range / Re: Post your HDR images:
« Last post by Quasimodo on Today at 02:58:12 PM »

www.ComposingTheMoment.com


www.ComposingTheMoment.com


Beautiful pictures! I thought you would run into trubble with moving subjects like your water, but apparantly not.
45
but it's a Canon L-series and should be giving you excellent IQ

I wouldn't draw such a straight conclusion (example: 17-40L wide open), for the current lenses I'd say the overall advantage of L is better build quality and (most of the time) sealing, for iq ymmv.

Any ideas? Problem with the lens? Am I doing something wrong and missed a setting somewhere?

As the others have noted, the 6d shot is either out of focus and/or motion blurred (IS never prevents this to 100%). My advice: If you want to test a lens after buying shoot a test chart or at least another similar object with a tripod, and not a live scene out of the window, only then you'll get a real result how the lens performs and what you need to work around - for example use afma or expect corner or wide open softness.

Other thoughts: Dynamic range is about the same and the color rendition is also great for both cameras.

Yes, the dr of the expensive Canon dslrs is still rather mediocre, it's a known issue *if* you happen to shoot high-dr scenes.
46
I see better detail on 24-105 but the focus is not where you wanted to be so that's why OM-D for you it looks better.
47
Software & Accessories / Which SD-card for Eos 6D?
« Last post by RadioPath on Today at 02:42:08 PM »
Hi everyone,

thanks again for the advice regarding buying the 6D ( http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=14406.0 ). I found a good deal for it (body only) and want to pull the trigger. Just wanted to know which SD-card to buy:

1. I was happy with Sandisk for my CF-cards for my 400D; are they still a good company?
2. There are Sandisk Extreme and Extreme Pro Cards (45 MB/s vs 95 MB/s). Is it worth the extra cash?
3. If there are better options (both in terms of quality and value for money) please share

Thanks a bunch!
RadioPath

P.S.: Hope this is the correct forum, sorry if not.  :)
49

Maybe I should rent another lens. Any recommendations on a lens to really show what the 6D is capable of, IQ wise?

The 24-70 2.8 II is recognized as Canon's best normal zoom lens. 
50
Canon General / Seeking advice for corporate sporting event gear
« Last post by CANONisOK on Today at 02:28:57 PM »
At my office the other week we had a meeting about one of these 2-day “corporate Olympics”-type events happening in a few weeks. Organizers mentioned that they were looking for somebody to photograph our employees participating in the various competitions. Despite being a humble amateur, I volunteered to take pictures. I figured it would be a good opportunity to improve my photography on something other than my kids… and the pics won’t likely be any worse than those from years past (blurry cell phone pics, flat & lifeless P&S pics, etc.).

The competition will feature a wide variety of competitions: individual and relay running (short, middle, long), cycling, tug of war, swimming, basketball, volleyball, home run derby, etc.

I was hoping to get some advice from the group on what would be a good kit to prepare for such an event – especially when it comes to lens selection. My goal is to balance what equipment would keep me prepared for most scenarios, while not going overboard. I’d appreciate any tips from those who do this type of thing regularly.

I am definitely planning on bringing the following:

  • Lowepro Pro Trekker 300 AW
  • 5D Mark iii w/ battery grip (and four LP-E6s)
  • Joby Ultrafit sling strap
  • Manfrotto 695CX monopod w/ quick release head (and mounting plates for my small whites)
  • Speedlite 430EX II
  • Plenty of SD and CF cards
  • OP/TECH rainsleeves
  • Water, snacks, hat, sunscreen, batteries, etc.

Then there is the lens list that is more open for debate (I’ve listed them in what I feel might be order of importance):

  • 70-200mm f/2.8 IS ii
  • 100-400mm
  • 135mm
  • 24-70mm f/2.8 ii
  • TC 1.4x iii

My preference as of late has been shooting with primes, but I can imagine in this situation I would do best having the flexibility of zooms. It especially pains me to be leaving the 300mm f/4 IS at home, as I’ve started to really appreciate what IQ advantage it can have over zooms operating in the same FL. The zooms might be the most useful - but the primes probably have the ability to "wow" more than the zooms.

So, for those who have the experience, what are your suggestions for lenses? Unless I am mingling in the crowd of athletes between events, I can’t imagine I’ll use the 24-70mm much, and I’ve debated just throwing the 50mm in the bag instead for such moments. Along the same lines, I cannot thing of a scenario where I would need an UWA, so I’m planning on leaving the 16-35mm at home.

Secondly, is the need for a backup body. I’m thinking about renting a 7D or a second 5D3 for backup. Although it is not a paid gig, I’d definitely feel bad if something happened and my personal camera crapped out during the event. Is this a must?

Anyway, thanks in advance for any suggestion you all can provide. Thanks!
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