Hi there - as the author of this short review, just a quick reply to Viggo's observations about correcting exposure in post-production. It may well be a weakness in my technique that I'm not able to guarantee spot-on exposures when working largely candidly for 14 hours in constantly changing and usually far less-than-ideal light on wedding days but I'm always grateful to be able to have the flex to bring back some highlight or shadow detail when I've not managed to nail things in-camera. Sometimes it's just a tweak, sometimes it can be a stop or 2 but the joy of modern cameras is that we have that flex when we need it. Clearly, when you have control of light and subject placement, such flexibility is rarely needed but it can be a life-saver for a candid wedding photographer. I wish I had Viggo's capacity to correctly expose every image but I'm simply not that good and having the technology to now be able to deliver an image to the bride and groom that perhaps previously would have been unrecoverable is wonderful.
Thanks for taking time to address my "rant". First off, I don't at all don't understand why all cameras underexpose so much by default. And as far as I know, the 1-series are the only camera where you can offset 0 ev in camera to solve the issue BEFORE shooting. And this is what I mean, I don't take especially great care in exposing correctly, I have done that within a day of getting my new camera, I simply shoot a grey card and bracket until I see 50,50,50 values with the eyedropper in Lr, I then add around 0,5-1.0 stop default to that. I turn down the screen brightness to where it doesn't look very bright when it really isn't. I also dial down one point on the contrast slider at my Picture Style. I turn off all in camera adjustments such as DLO and all of that. Although I never shoot jpeg, all of this is to help me getting the best possible preview in the field, for what the exposure will look like in Lightroom.
When that is adjusted at home when I have the time, I shoot, and hardly chimp, but do check the histogram with the first couple of shots in any given situation. I shoot Av with auto iso and limit my shutter speed to whatever suits. I shoot and get to know the camera with where clipped is clipped. I realized back in the day when I ALWAYS had to add a stop in post that I didn't want that, and tried my best to solve it on a permanant basis.
Andy, this is nothing personal and I appriciate your review and your shots are superb! Again thanks, for your reply.
Viggo, I too thank you for sharing your approach to preparing ahead of time for best exposures! And also for acknowledging, and reminding many of us, that in camera meters can change a bit from lens to lens. I first noticed that with my 135mm f/2--and it is a great practice to check the histogram especially after switching lenses.
Glad to be of help! I'm just here to learn and enjoy photography myself, and I learn something eeeevery day.
On a sidenote I just started using the Expodisc for wb, and it changed my photography for ever. I spent 90% of my editing time trying to get proper wb, and being colorblind, failed miserably. Auto WB sucks bigtime, and now I can also use the Expodisc as a lightmeter for my B1, even in HSS, where no lightmeter works