Hi again. I am planning to go malaysian Motogp in Oct so I figure I would go out and practise first on my 24-105 before I dive in and buy a 70-200 f4.
Since the 24-105 does not have the option to pick between Mode 1 and Mode 2 IS, make sure to turn the stabilizer off. It's always extremely difficult to pull off a pan blur at the angle the bike is approaching you in the shot you posted. That's because the bike is heading toward you, and the focal plane is constantly changing. Consequently, the angle at which the bike is traveling and the angle at which you're panning is only synchronized for a very brief moment in time. You would have much better luck by changing the camera angle so that you're shooting more of a side profile instead of front. The shot pwalderh posted is a great example.
A few more thoughts:
- The greater the focal length, the more motion blur you will achieve for a given shutter speed.
- xxD bodies, the 5DC, and 5D2 tend to lock focus on the center of the subject, so you have to manipulate your composition accordingly to make sure the front of the bike is sharp. IMHO, getting the headlights of a bike or car sharp is as important as getting the eyes of a model sharp in a portrait. Even if the rest of the bike is sharp, if the headlights are soft, it will look like junk.