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Playing with water drops

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DCM1024:
Lovely photos and something I want to try. Thus far I have only used stationary water drops. I would be interested in learning more about your setup.

kirispupis:

--- Quote from: bvukich on November 12, 2012, 12:38:47 PM ---
--- Quote from: kirispupis on November 12, 2012, 10:24:53 AM ---
* I bought polarized filter paper for my flashes and have a polarizer for my lens.  I just need to brave up and cut it ($50/sheet) and use it on the side flashes to see the effect - which I hope removes some of the glare I spend time in PP removing
--- End quote ---

The CP on your lens makes total sense, but why polarize the flash output?  I've never heard of that before and I'm quite curious.

--- End quote ---

If you want to remove reflections on some surfaces caused by flash, you need to polarize both the flashes and the lens.  I bought the material for my MT-24EX for photographing metallic-like bugs (notably beetles) that have a lot of gleam, but I have enough to cover several flashes too.  I'm not sure how it will turn out here as I am not dealing with metal, but I need to to this for other types of photography (like jewelry) anyways.

kirispupis:

--- Quote from: DCM1024 on November 12, 2012, 01:25:13 PM ---Lovely photos and something I want to try. Thus far I have only used stationary water drops. I would be interested in learning more about your setup.

--- End quote ---

Here is a guest blog I did some time ago with my initial setup and some of my first shots - http://www.ronmartblog.com/2011/12/high-speed-drop-photographygetting.html

I have changed my setup since considerably, but I still use the same table, stands, tripod, and bar.  The following are differences between the two setups.
- I now drop things to a DIY light table.
- I use three siphons instead of one - and I built my own contraption to hold + adjust them.
- I use three flashes instead of two.  I can support up to seven flashes and have plans to buy four more.
- I have a lot more solutions for backgrounds now.

I will likely do another guest blog when the full setup is done.  Besides the polarizing change and flashes, I need to buy new light stands as the current ones have a hard time with the weight.  I use Chinese flashes.  My current ones are the 565 but the four new ones will be the 568.  Ironically the Chinese flashes have been more dependable than my Canon ones.  The miniport on my 580EX II broke so I now fire it via hotshoe.  My 580EX has a sync problem so I can no longer use it for high speed.

On the side I also purchased the new high speed shutter from Cognisys and am in the process of building a contraption to use it.  I plan to use it for insects in flight.

As you can tell, most of my budget now goes to high speed photography.  I'm rather glad Canon hasn't released any interesting lenses in awhile.

bvukich:

--- Quote from: kirispupis on November 12, 2012, 01:57:31 PM ---
--- Quote from: bvukich on November 12, 2012, 12:38:47 PM ---
--- Quote from: kirispupis on November 12, 2012, 10:24:53 AM ---
* I bought polarized filter paper for my flashes and have a polarizer for my lens.  I just need to brave up and cut it ($50/sheet) and use it on the side flashes to see the effect - which I hope removes some of the glare I spend time in PP removing
--- End quote ---

The CP on your lens makes total sense, but why polarize the flash output?  I've never heard of that before and I'm quite curious.

--- End quote ---

If you want to remove reflections on some surfaces caused by flash, you need to polarize both the flashes and the lens.  I bought the material for my MT-24EX for photographing metallic-like bugs (notably beetles) that have a lot of gleam, but I have enough to cover several flashes too.  I'm not sure how it will turn out here as I am not dealing with metal, but I need to to this for other types of photography (like jewelry) anyways.

--- End quote ---

Hmmm... that does make a lot of sense logically.  What better way to increase contrast in highlight/glare areas than to prevent most of them from occurring in the first place.  Polarize the source to get optimal light, then clean up the remainder/oddities at the lens.

Do you make the filter over the strobe rotatable, or do you just move the whole strobe and/or object?

arioch82:
Can you explain better how are you doing the different color drops? do you use different liquids?
They look great , thanks for sharing :)

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