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Is there a primer for HDR from 5D3? How to bracket shots? PP?

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if your going to use photomatix then the in camera hdr processing of the 5diii is pretty much useless unless you sort of want a preview of what things could be, but the control photomatix gives you it's not going to really match the few presets the camera provides.  Just shoot brackets and don't worry about the in camera hdr.  For those of us who think hdr is a bit of a gimmick and don't want to spend the time merging photos and pp in photomatix or any other hdr software then the in camera option is a nice feature to have, but probably not used all that much.
Here's an example of a 7-bracket shot with a 5D3:

If you have questions, Indy is a good teacher.

Hey Cayenne,

Just, IMO,…I rarelly use in camera HDR processing with my 5D III.  Part of the fun is gathering your exposures and working with them in post.  I would agree that Photomatix is probably the best,…I also use Nik HDR Efex Pro,..they both are great.  Nik software plug-ins are great.  In camera settings, I use AEB with 1 stop exposure between each shot.  You can set this to take either 3 shots, 5 shots, or 7 shots.  Look on page 316 of the user manual to customize your AEB setting. ( I think this page is correct,..hopefully someone will correct me if I’m wrong,…thanks in advance…)  I actually set this to one of my custom settings on my mode dial with a 2 sec delay for quick access.  There are a lot of great sites on the net and YouTube to learn how various people handle their HDRs.


--- Quote from: on December 14, 2012, 11:12:39 AM ---Here's an example of a 7-bracket shot with a 5D3

--- End quote ---

I just cannot help noticing that you could have taken the same tripod shot with a Rebel 550d and Magic Lantern which allows for unlimited (+automatic) bracketing like 20 +- 0.5ev shots :-o ... at the resolution of the flickr shot no one could tell the difference.

Throwing in my two cents worth:  Photomatrix is fine, but IMHO NIK far surpasses using control points to finely tune any and all points of the image that you choose.  Unless you are very careful and know what you are doing, Photomatrix tends to make the yellows stand out, slightly overwhelming the eye with yellow.

The ghosting is what causes that awful white haloing in skies.  With NIK HDR Efx Pro, I found it easy to reduce the ghosting to nil, simply by choosing the lowest number.  I do use both programs and many cameras, as well as Photoshop CS6 Extended.

There is no 'right' or 'wrong' way to do HDR.  It is all in the eye of the artist, or what you previsualize as your finished image.

I have not found a single camera that produces HDR that is anything but ho-hum.  The high end Nikons give you a 2 to 9 bracket right on top of the camera.  If you are using a tripod and are very careful, you can start off with a 9 bracket starting at -0-, and I do not recommend doing full stops at using a nine bracket.  That will produce almost all white at one end, and all black at the other end.  Start practicing with 9 bracket 1/3 stop, balanced at zero.  Then learn to shoot for your taste.  I prefer deeper, darker images for the most part, so my bracket will often start at -1.3 as the zero point, depending on the subject.

IMHO the ideal HDR does not scream HDR at the viewer...instead, it allows the photographer to bring into view tones and variations that are missed even by the human eye.  The tones are there when you shoot, you just don't see them.  Furthermore, having all the tones at your fingertips, you can then lighten and darken to suit either using NIK, or NIK Viveza, or even just the burning and dodging tools in your software, be it Photoshop or Gimp or whatever.  Instead of making those dodged spots gray, you will actually be lightening true colors and tones.

Last but not least;  about layers.  Layers for the HDR shooter are wonderful.  I have noticed many fine amateur photographers take beautiful images, compile an HDR finished product...and never bother to either brush the effect out of blown-out windows or mask the windows so that just the darkest of the frames has the windows showing (cut, paste to a top layer).  That is when it reeks HDR and PP.  The very best HDR, IMHO, makes the viewer wonder if it is...or if it isn't...HDR.

Don't be afraid to experiment.  It isn't as if you are paying for film or paper.  You are learning what you love, enjoy the journey.


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