Topic: Press shutter once to take picture, it stays closed, press again and it opens (Read 6322 times)
This and many other features always get left on accidentally. I always do it with the damn self timer. Need it, set it camera goes into bag. An hour/day later bigfoot appears in front of you, you grab the camera and shoot! Damn it whats it doing?
That's why my C1 setting is always a tripod setup - timer, MLU, etc.
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Yes - configuring C1/C2/C3 for your various different shooting scenarios (even if MLU is not part of one of them) is an ideal way to avoid the surprise of taking the camera out of the bag and it not behaving as you'd expect. As long as you select the right C mode for what you're doing, you'll never get any nasty surprises.This and many other features always get left on accidentally. I always do it with the damn self timer. Need it, set it camera goes into bag. An hour/day later bigfoot appears in front of you, you grab the camera and shoot! Damn it whats it doing?
That's why my C1 setting is always a tripod setup - timer, MLU, etc.
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Good to hear the problem's solved.
This is now getting off topic, but I'd like some advice/comments please. I've never actually used LiveView in any real way. So here's what I need to know:
I want to go out and photograph star trails, you know the kind, several hundred shots stacked to make to final image. Now if I set my camera for 30second exposures, continuous shooting and lock my cable release, it'll obviously keep taking shots until a) I tell it not to or b) the battery runs out.
The question: If i use LiveView to focus and avoid all those nasty tremors and slaps, will the screen stay on all the time and drain my battery? Can I tell it not to stay on?
I'm shooting a 7D.
Good to hear the problem's solved.As the 7D has a top display, so while taking the photo in live view, the rear screen will display nothing.
This is now getting off topic, but I'd like some advice/comments please. I've never actually used LiveView in any real way. So here's what I need to know:
I want to go out and photograph star trails, you know the kind, several hundred shots stacked to make to final image. Now if I set my camera for 30second exposures, continuous shooting and lock my cable release, it'll obviously keep taking shots until a) I tell it not to or b) the battery runs out.
The question: If i use LiveView to focus and avoid all those nasty tremors and slaps, will the screen stay on all the time and drain my battery? Can I tell it not to stay on?
I'm shooting a 7D.
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Good to hear the problem's solved.What you should do is switch to manual focus, focus manually via life view and then turn off the LCD during actual shooting. You don't need life view or mirror lockup for long exposure, so off the LCD which will preserve battery power and reduce the heat generate by the LCD (improve noise performance).
This is now getting off topic, but I'd like some advice/comments please. I've never actually used LiveView in any real way. So here's what I need to know:
I want to go out and photograph star trails, you know the kind, several hundred shots stacked to make to final image. Now if I set my camera for 30second exposures, continuous shooting and lock my cable release, it'll obviously keep taking shots until a) I tell it not to or b) the battery runs out.
The question: If i use LiveView to focus and avoid all those nasty tremors and slaps, will the screen stay on all the time and drain my battery? Can I tell it not to stay on?
I'm shooting a 7D.
As the 7D has a top display, so while taking the photo in live view, the rear screen will display nothing.The ideal way of taking Star trail is to use a single long exposure via bulb mode, but using DSLR, we can take the digital way... by taking many part of the trail using shorter exposure and then combine them together to form a single trail... the different is not obvious if you plan it carefully, the lens is wide enough and you don't 100% pixel peek. The advantage of this method is that you can limit the noise and you still can take a long star trail if your sky is quite light polluted.
However, astro photographers normally uses stacking in combination with a motorised equatorial mount - that way each shot will be of the same bit of sky with no motion blur of the stars, and the stacking software puts the frames together to reduce noise and increase the detail of the stars.
Star trail photos are made with very long exposures - just put your camera in bulb mode for that type of shot.
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| Slow motion camera shutter - Canon 5D 2,000 fps | Small | Large |
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I always use live-view myself and the self-timer if not using a release. The thread just reminded me I saw the following vid on YouTube of a 5D shutter in operation filmed at 2000fps I thought was fairly interesting:That is revealing! Not just interesting, very revealing! So, from an engineering perspective, after I saw the video for the first time, I wondered why the stars I shot last week looked like Nike logos when I did not lock the mirror. Well, you need to understand that in the second half of the clip you see that the mirror bounces. Now understand that the camera is sitting on top of at least three and a half to four feet of Aluminium (or Carbon fiber - which I believe would be more flexible so even worse...). So as the first slap of the mirror pushes vibrations down the tripod, there is movement and that would cause shake...
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