here are examples with the PCB ABR800. fun strobe unit. perfect for the budget minded portraitist.
« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2013, 07:33:59 PM »
This link might help.
Small flash style accessories really do lack the power to do very much, though they can be fun. One thing they are very good for is controlling contrast by filling shadows on axis, once you have done the narrow dof thing then that really is their best use.
Here is an example of the narrow dof on axis "look", done with one of the cheap $200 options (I forget which!).
Again, thank you.
I looked at the link and the links from there, among the video.
Hmmm... I love the look you have on this shot. The other ones posted further down are great too, but I see that they cast shaddows (not that that in itself is wrong when going for that).. Why would one use a ring flach instead of a beaty dish (in studio). My impression is that you can get the same effect with a deep beauty dish, but also because of the deepness and the curve of it eliminates the shaddows behind the subject much more? Or are these really two different things for different looks? Is the main benefit of the ringflash that you can have the lens through the light, thus giving other angles of light?
Please forgive me my ignorance.
Your are not quite right, the difference between mine and the ones with shadows is the proximity of the background, a ringlight will make a shadow all around the subject unless the background is far enough away to fall into dark, it still makes the shadow you just can't see it, which isn't difficult with shoe mount flash powered lights. Look at the shadows in agierke's first shot, the head is much closer to the background so the shadow is smaller, his hands further away so the shadows much bigger, mine the background is so far away the huge shadow just merges with the underexposed background.
You can use a ringlight like a beauty dish, just take it off axis, but you can't use a beautydish like a ringlight, you can never get it 100% on axis. All lights make shadows, the angle they are to the subject is what gives us the three dimensional impression. Now the next important thing is falloff, my example has very pronounced falloff, that is the luminosity of the cheek and neck are very different, the light is so close to the subject that there is a difference in illumination. In agierke's third shot the subject is far enough away from the lightsource that the falloff doesn't come into the equation, she is evenly illuminated.
They are both very distinctive ringlight "look" shots, but quite different.
If you can only afford to get a ringlight or a beautydish, get a beautydish, they are more versatile. They can't do a true ringlight look, but they are much more efficient than a ringlight attachment and it won't take you long to realise power is king. The ONLY benefit of the ringlight is your ability to shoot through the circle of light, like I said in my first post, once you get bored of the "rinlight look" the true advantage of the ringlight attaxhments is on axis contrast control, fill.
I think fing lights for portraits are creepy! Unless you are going for a vampire effect. Wait a minute, can you photograph a vampire...Only in live view. Since vampires don't reflect in mirrors, the viewfinder will be blank on an SLR.