I use rotolights for my video work, but they require a very fast lens, and a close working distance, they are very much a get me out of a dark hole solution, and I wouldn't recommend them for stills photography, unless tripod mounted / still life etc.
Most of the LED solutions I've seen have been similar, low output etc.
For stills I use an old and very cheap Centon MR-20.
My camera has a PC socket, so theres no issue with trigger voltages, but I can confirm I've also used it on a rebel via an adaptor without incident. Your call.
Cost me about £30 new, has two modes, auto (a sensor on the flash, not TTL) or manual.
I prefer to shoot manual and juggle my aperture.
It does give that ring light and weird shadow halo thing that is de-rigeur at the moment. I shoot portraiture so rarely that I've never thought to upgrade to anything better for this very specific look. I would usually have my 430EX either off camera on an L grip synched via a TTL cable, or if the environment allows, entirely off camera on a stand (both my cameras support wireless speedlite control)
If you are playing with the ring flash look then the centon will give you usable power (and thus more choice of perspective) and will also allow you a much faster shutter (up to your cameras max synch) and lower ISO.
I would go for conventional ring flash, and if you are confident using manual expsoure settings get a cheap centon (also sold under vivitar brand) or there are intermediate options with auto TTL by the likes of Murami (?) and then a bit more for the Sigma option, and then of course the canon versions, but it becomes £30 vs £350.
One on ebay just now: item number 350698781079 for reference.