If you can afford to replace your lens or are earning enough from your work to not worry, forget the filter. Also factor in the degree of malcordination that exist within you
Do keep in mind that one of the lenses the OP mentions is the 17-40mm f/4L, and that is a lens that requires a front filter to complete the weather/dust sealing for the lens.
There's a very nice article on Lenstip whose conclusion is that HOYA filters are the best, both overall and in terms of value for money (depends on the model you buy).
No problem with lens caps, but I never tried stacking them.
Right - but you have to look at the test data in the context of the utility of a UV filter on a dSLR. The Hoya filters scored better than the B+W because they more effectively block UV light (defined as 200-390nm). But modern dSLRs aren't sensitive to UV light, so that criterion is pretty much irrelevant in terms of current utility. The B+W filters actually score better (slightly) than the Hoya filters in terms of visible light transmission (which LensTip defines as 390-750nm, although the standard definition is 400-700nm). But the difference is only ~1%, which is practically irrelevant.
So, based on the LensTip test data, for a dSLR there's no optical difference between the B+W MRC and the high end Hoya filters. Personally, I find the MRC (and Nano) coatings very easy to clean, similar to the Hoya HD coating. The standard Hoya coatings are reportedly harder to clean. Also, the brass mount rings on the B+W filters are less prone to thermal expansion than the aluminum rings on most other filters, meaning it's less likely the B+W's will get stuck if stacked (but it can still happen, which is why having a set of $5 filter wrenches with you is a good idea!).