need advise on what speedlite?

[Chris Burch]

You can do a LOT with speedlights.  I own 5 speedlights (600, 580ii, YN560ii) plus 3 Einsteins and I use the speedlights all of the time.  The only time I use eTTL is with my on-camera flash.  My remote speedlights are always manually triggered only, so that means I can ignore all of the frills of the 600 and just use flashes with similar output and sufficient power to achieve the look I want.  That said, I could easily replace all of my speedlights (the remote ones that is) with YN560-II's at $74/ea and would barely notice a difference from $500+ Canon versions (same power output).  The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.  Get a set of inexpensive triggers (I recommend the Phottix Stratos II, but you're already invested in YN models), and you now have a multi-light off-camera setup with tons of possibilities. 

For your on-camera flash, keep a Canon flash because you'll want the eTTL and multitude of options.  For remotes however, there just isn't much need to spend a lot.

[Anthonyhnj]

You can do a LOT with speedlights.  I own 5 speedlights (600, 580ii, YN560ii) plus 3 Einsteins and I use the speedlights all of the time.  The only time I use eTTL is with my on-camera flash.  My remote speedlights are always manually triggered only, so that means I can ignore all of the frills of the 600 and just use flashes with similar output and sufficient power to achieve the look I want.  That said, I could easily replace all of my speedlights (the remote ones that is) with YN560-II's at $74/ea and would barely notice a difference from $500+ Canon versions (same power output).  The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.  Get a set of inexpensive triggers (I recommend the Phottix Stratos II, but you're already invested in YN models), and you now have a multi-light off-camera setup with tons of possibilities. 

In the end I winded up with 3 yn560's with the yn622's as my triggers. Im pretty happy with it so far. Once i get more familiar and increase my skill set, I eventually will get monolights.   
Thanks to everyone for all their help and guidance.

Anthony   

[Jamesy]

The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.

I am thinking about augmenting my two 580exII's with a couple of YN-560 or YN-568ex2 combined with my YN-602 and 622c's and get rid of my old Nikon SB-28's for background.

- What is the issue with the sleep-mode with the YN's?

[smithy]

The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.

I am thinking about augmenting my two 580exII's with a couple of YN-560 or YN-568ex2 combined with my YN-602 and 622c's and get rid of my old Nikon SB-28's for background.

- What is the issue with the sleep-mode with the YN's?

The issue I have with sleep mode on my YN-568ex is that when it goes to sleep, you have to fire a shot first before it wakes up.  So you miss the first shot.

[Jamesy]

The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.

I am thinking about augmenting my two 580exII's with a couple of YN-560 or YN-568ex2 combined with my YN-602 and 622c's and get rid of my old Nikon SB-28's for background.

- What is the issue with the sleep-mode with the YN's?

The issue I have with sleep mode on my YN-568ex is that when it goes to sleep, you have to fire a shot first before it wakes up.  So you miss the first shot.

The wake-up can happen from the camera position though, right? You don't need to physically touch the flash, correct?

[Chris Burch]

Thought I replied, but guess I never finished...

The YN-560II's and probably other YN models have a sleep and auto power off feature.  You can set the sleep to off, but the power-off will still happen at 30 minutes in the M mode (the only one that will accept a flash trigger) or 60 minutes in the S1/S2 modes (optical trigger only).   Once it shuts off you have to physically hold the power button down to turn them back on.  That means you need to ping them at least every 30 minutes to keep them alive.  I used Stratos II triggers that have a wake-up function, so I just need to do a half-shutter press to refresh the YN's or just take a shot.  It's only a problem if you stop shooting for a while or turn off a particular zone for a while.  The last gig I used them, I had 2 different rooms with remote speedlights and I stopped transmitting to the zones for the room I wasn't in.  I tried to remember to periodically turn the other zones back on and refresh them, but at some point I missed the window and lost one of the YN.  I had to schlep up to the second floor balcony where I mounted it to turn it back on.  Not a show-stopper, but something you may have to keep track of.

[Jamesy]

@ Chris Burch - thanks for the explanation - my 580exII's have an auto-off that I disabled some time ago and I have never had an issue with them powering off - a 580exII has a physical on/off switch and Canon do not allow functions that contradict lever/button positions. The YN's have push buttons so it makes sense that they can change the state over a period of time.

For the most part 30-60 minutes before they tank should not be an issue for me. I am considering two 568ex's but may also take a look at the YN-560II's because I already have a couple of TTL flashes.

Do you use the 560's with 622c's? That would be my setup.

[smithy]

The YN's do have an annoying powersaver feature, but it's manageable.

I am thinking about augmenting my two 580exII's with a couple of YN-560 or YN-568ex2 combined with my YN-602 and 622c's and get rid of my old Nikon SB-28's for background.

- What is the issue with the sleep-mode with the YN's?

The issue I have with sleep mode on my YN-568ex is that when it goes to sleep, you have to fire a shot first before it wakes up.  So you miss the first shot.

The wake-up can happen from the camera position though, right? You don't need to physically touch the flash, correct?

That's correct - I never have to physically touch the flash.  But then you need to consider that I'm not leaving them for more than 10-15 minutes, so I haven't experienced a 'deep' sleep like the type that Chris Burch has described.  Or maybe that issue has been resolved with the 568ex?

BTW, the 622c is an excellent trigger - amazing really when you consider the price.  I was using a Pixel branded trigger before, and couldn't get a shutter sync faster than 1/125th (on my 5D3).  With the 622c I can sync at 1/200th easily and with HSS have shot at 1/2000th.

[Jamesy]

BTW, the 622c is an excellent trigger - amazing really when you consider the price.  I was using a Pixel branded trigger before, and couldn't get a shutter sync faster than 1/125th (on my 5D3).  With the 622c I can sync at 1/200th easily and with HSS have shot at 1/2000th.

Thanks for your input.

I too get super clean frames on my 5D3/622C combo at 1/200 and shot a HSS shoot at 1/4000 and never missed a frame with 400+ exposures. They just work...

[Chris Burch]

I use Phottix Stratos II for my remotes lights because I don't need the TTL functionality.  I love the Stratos -- great range and very reliable.

[Jamesy]

I use Phottix Stratos II for my remotes lights because I don't need the TTL functionality.  I love the Stratos -- great range and very reliable.

I have heard great things about the Stratto's and they are also compatible with the Odin's - nice touch. Had the 622's not come out I may very well have jumped on them.