babiesphotos canada, why do you need shallow DOF when shooting lively toddlers from up close? That's just impossible to nail sharp focus on the eyes very often. I would close down to at least f/3.5 or something, when shooting near them. Pull back to 7 feet or so and then maybe try wide open, then crop later?
siegsAR, I'm sure the 7D's AF is faster than the 6D's. But again, I don't care. What we seem to have here with the 6D, is a supremely good file generator. Again, I am bumfuzzled that the luminance noise in the range between ISO 2000 and 10,000, seems to be far less than the 5D3's. I like to shoot in low light. In bright light, I certainly see no noise of any kind in the lower ISO range, but I guess technically there must be some. My hand hurts, I have shot 1000 pictures in less than a week...getting to know the camera and have become addicted.
I also bought the Canon 40mm pancake lens, and I just cannot believe how sharp to the corners it is, wide open on the 6D. The color is a bit subdued, not up to "L" standards...but certainly it seems to exceed all other "non L" Canon glass I have tried/owned. The contrast is fantastic. The AF is faster than I thought. But, I must agree with those who have said it is a tight fit on the body...be careful when mounting. The key is to slowly screw it on, don't force it quickly. This aspect does make me wonder why it needs to be that way, but optics wise, for $150 it's a long term keeper. I even like it far better than the "nifty fifty" f/1.8 I sold last year. It seems to AF faster, and I prefer the field of view of 40mm, to 50...for general shooting on a full frame. Barrel distortion also seems not too problematic.
Today I tried my Voigtlander 58mm f/1.4 on the 6D. Its color, contrast, and sharpness, are truely world class. It and the 135 f/2L, are my sharpest lenses. I like its color better than the 135's, which can be on the cool-ish side. The 135 is better in all other aspects, though, with smoother bokeh than every other lens on earth, it seems to me (the 200 f/2L might be smoother still, is obviously more extreme...but there's that problem with the double images within the background bokeh). Being a fully manual Nikon-mount lens, the Voigtlander seems to light the AF points accurately, as it did on my 50D (via the adapter with "dragonfly" chip or whatever it is). Alas, the Nokton does vignette on the full frame, where it did not on the 50D. It goes away above f/2.5 or so, so nothing unusual. It also has what looks to be some spherical aberration at the full-frame corners, but it's not bad. I've seen far worse. It certainly has none of that within the crop frame, where other 50 primes have. I also managed to coax some rather unusual lens flare out of it, while pointed into the sun but at an angle. It goes away when the angle decreases (when the sun is more directly shining into the lens). Also problematic is getting remotely accurate metering once you start closing down the aperture...but then that's true of any manual-aperture lens. No lens is perfect I guess. If I had to rely on the 50mm range for busy event shooting, I would just decide between the Tamron and the Canon ii 24-70 zooms, and be done with it.