My astronomy / trig is not so good but think at 360 degrees per day which is 1440 minutes it should move 360 / 1440 * 5 = 1.25 degrees which should be OK if I anticipate the direction and get the first shot near the edge, or could go portrait for 3 degrees and crop later. Then again that's not taking into account the size of the sun, so might be something to try in advance once I have a filter.
I checked your numbers BTW, they are OK. The Sun is only 0.5 deg in diameter. But where do the 5 min come from? The eclipse should start at least 30 min before sunset. I haven't figured out the exact circumstances, but I imagine there being an opportunity here for a nice partially eclipsed sunset image. Without a filter when the sun is close enough to the horizon, just like you normally would shoot a sunset. Trying in advance is a good idea, in particular if you want to find the best spot for the sunset.
One idea is to find the exact spot where the sun will set (e.g. by checking the day before - remember, this location moves with time so don't attempt to find it too many days in advance) then go back and compose the image well before sunset on the eclipse day and make a time series that shows the sun entering the frame and then setting partially eclipsed. For best result, use manual mode and an exposure that you determined on the previous "trial" sunset. Focus on something distant using live view and manual focus. Start your time-series 10-15 min before sunset. Don't forget to post your results here
I have the NDx400 filter, and it's not really dark enough for day time photography of the sun - you can
do it, but only with the shortest exposure time and smallest aperture (resulting in resolution loss due to refraction). As a comparison, the Thousand's Oak solar filter I previously referred to attenuates light by a factor of 100,000, or 16.6 stops - enough to safely look through. Because your particular partial eclipse is at sunset, it shouldn't be a problem for you though.