here are my suggestions:
I have 7 bodies including a 50D , 1DM3, 1DX and 5DM3 etc.
If money does not play a role - my suggestion of course would be a 1DX :-)
The 50D is better in terms of ISO noise than the 60D. (my reason for not upgrading to the 60D)
The 70D jpeg images have been reported to be better but the raws most probably will not. The sensor size is the same compared to the 50D but the resolution is way higher (20MPixel over 15 - there is almost no chance that ISO noise is way better on the 70D compared with a 50D for that reason alone)
1) depending on what you do with the resulting images (do you need very large prints?) - consider a camera that was made for things like indoor sports - like a used 1DMark III. It only has 10MPixel on a larger sensor compared to 15 MPixel on a smaller sensor compared to the 50D - this allows for ISO3200 with much better results in terms of noise. In additon the camera is faster and would help with sports that requires a better burst rate - Judo is not such an issue i think in that regard. I usually shoot handball, basketball etc. and need faster speed than your 1/400s from the sample you have posted.
Such a camera also has dual card slots and allows for recording RAW on one card and jpeg on a second card (in case you have no time for post production and need to deliver the jpegs immediately after the game)
2) use a grey card or things like the color passport and set the WB accordingly (custom set) in order to see right on your display what the images looks like but always shoot raw and use Lightroom to adjust the WB by using a picture with a grey card or color passport during post processing. As said, if you record both RAW and JPEG (on one card or dual card setting) - the jpegs would look correct in terms of WB.
3) things like color reflections (red skin) can be changed in Lightroom by using the adjustment brush just for areas that you like to correct (the face for example). No need to start PS nowadays for these little tweeks.
4) Noise reduction - the Lightroom Noise Reduction is good enough to start with - use 100% view and use the color noise reduction / details sliders in post production. Also, if you export to JPG from within Lightroom - enable sharpening - especially if you resize the image during the export. It also applies some noise reduction automatically during export. (this only works again in LR5.2 - LR5.0/5.1 did not work if you resize during export and left you with unsharpened jpegs)
5) flash - almost never an option since it is not allowed and is annoying for the players/fighters
6) forgot: i had the 24-70 Version I and it was never the sharpest lens. I own a 85 f1.8 and it's very sharp compared to the 24-70 and of course you could use f2 and have one stop more or you use f2.8 at a better quality. The lens is a good one for indoor sport.
« Last Edit: October 08, 2013, 05:53:58 AM by ykn123 »
35 f2.0 IS, 85 f1.2 II, 100 f2.8 IS, 135 f2.0, 200 f2.0, 300 f4.0 IS, 16-35 f4.0 IS, 24-70 f2.8 II, 70-200 f4.0 IS, 70-200 f2.8 II, 100-400 f4.5-5.6 II