You probably want around 50-100mm of focal length to get a shot like that. You will also likely need to take separate shots of the foreground and moon (after setting up your camera on your tripod, without reframing) in order to get both the tree and the moon sharp. You'll need to composite the two in post. You will also probably need to shoot the tree around late civil twilight (blue hour) to get it silhouetted properly.
To avoid failure, make sure you are set up for the moon WELL ahead of time, so you have some time to focus sharply on the moon, plan your exposure times, and be ready to take each image at exactly the right time. As the eclipse progresses, you MUST change your shutter speed and ISO to compensate for the darkening that occurs. You cannot simply set your intervolometer and let it go...otherwise you'll end up with an extremely deep, dark brown moon that is barely brighter than the black background of the sky, instead of a nice, bright, richly colored red moon. You have to think ahead, do some research, figure out what the EV of a full uneclipsed moon is and the EV of a fully eclipsed moon is, and extrapolate how bright it will be at each interval you want to image at, and write down what shutter speed and ISO setting you will be using.
From full through half eclipsed, you will probably just want to increase your exposure time, however as you get into the crescent eclipsed phases and into the fully eclipsed phases, you will want to start increasing ISO and keep shutter the same (otherwise, you have to expose so long that the transit of the moon blurs all the detail away).
So long as you know roughly what exposure settings you need for each phase of the eclipse, and what the longest shutter speed you can expose at without the movement of the moon itself causing blur, then you should be fine. Small changes in total exposure (i.e. between the first fill uneclipsed frame and the next frame where the earths shadow is just beginning to eclipse the moon) shouldn't matter...you can normalize the small differences in post. It's the bigger differences that matter, i.e. full to gibbous eclipsed, gibbous to half eclipsed, half to fully eclipsed, etc.
From an artistic standpoint, a lot of these composites only show the fully eclipsed moon in the reddish color. If your careful and clever, you can actually push your exposure really far to the right and make some of the crescent images just before total eclipse show off some of that same reddish color. That way you get more of a gradual transition from full uneclipsed moon, to fully eclipsed moon, rather than that sudden, harsh transition from white partially eclipsed to blood red fully eclipsed.