Gear Talk > Software & Accessories
Alternate uses uses for solar eclipse filters
squarebox:
--- Quote from: PeterJ on May 09, 2012, 03:34:03 AM ---
--- Quote from: squarebox on May 08, 2012, 08:04:55 PM ---Is there any use for a ND100000 filter outside of taking a solar eclipse?
The only thing I could think of is doing a super long exposure in the city to remove people.
--- End quote ---
I bought a Thousand Oaks Optical solar filter on a recommendation from here, it was the kind made from a blank polymer and it worked well for a partial solar eclipse. However with the idea of using it for other purposes I took it out in the back yard and manually focused a 70-200 on a rose bush, worked out the rough exposure change, fitted the filter and took a few shots around my estimated exposure time.
I seemed to get the exposure right but the colour reproduction was beyond bad, so bad you couldn't tell the difference between primary colours and the loss of contrast between features meany it was actually hard to tell what it was a photo of. No doubt it would depend on what the filter is made from but if you're considering a new one you'd want to check into it and not assume it will be OK for general photography. I didn't keep that photo but did like the results from that filter with the sun:
--- End quote ---
Thankx Peter, that's the kind info i was wanting to hear. I'm wondering if that is an issue with polymer. Hopefully, a dedicated camera filter won't have the same issue, but I will keep a look out for this and report back with my results as I just ordered a ND100000 filter was expensive as hell to.
Neeneko:
I picked up an old B+W ND113 a while back and have been using it for long exposure stuff. To be honest, anything over the 10 stop ND filters I would not recommend. The exposures are long enough that the image gets ruined by dead/stuck pixels in the sensor.... though on a cool day or maybe with a higher ISO camera then I have this would not be an issue.
On a bright day though it makes for some very nice cloud shots.
wockawocka:
If you want to photograph all the buildings in time square without traffic or people it would do for that.
Out interest though, at ISO1600, F4 how long would the exposure need to be?
Neeneko:
--- Quote from: wockawocka on May 09, 2012, 08:42:13 AM ---If you want to photograph all the buildings in time square without traffic or people it would do for that.
Out interest though, at ISO1600, F4 how long would the exposure need to be?
--- End quote ---
With good light, maybe 30 seconds.
Unfortunately for this type of photography you generally want to use F11 or F22, which I have found results in exposures closer to 3-5 minutes, at least for the 17 stop filter.
TrumpetPower!:
--- Quote from: jabbott on May 09, 2012, 12:15:11 AM ---One option is to stack ND filters to reach the desired optical density.
--- End quote ---
THIS IS A RECIPE FOR DISASTER.
If you're exposing either your eyes or your camera to dangerous sunlight such that you need protection in the first place, photographic filters of any kind and in any combination will NOT provide said protection.
Now, you certainly don't always need protection when the sun hits your eyes or the front element of your camera. However, it really doesn't take very much to overdo it, especially when you're adding optics to the mix.
If the camera or your eyes are going to be pointed at the sun for more than a second more than once or twice, you need some sort of real protection. For your eyes, that means welding glass or eclipse glasses or the like. For your camera most especially if you yourself will be looking through the viewfinder that means either comparable protection or covering the front element (with the lens cap, etc.) when you're not actively making an exposure.
For the eclipse next weekend, I'll have two cameras going. The 5DIII will have the TS-E 24 (possibly with the 1.4x or 2x TC), and the 5DII will have the 400 f/2.8 (with the biggest TC left over). The 400 will have a Baader filter and will double as a viewing telescope. For the 24, I'll frame the shot early, almost certainly well before the sun enters the frame. I'll then hang a hat or something over the front of the camera. When things get interesting, I'll remove the hat, remotely trigger a rapid-fire bracket, and hang the hat back on. Lather, rinse, repeat when the light changes enough to make it worthwhile. The whole time I'll have eclipse sunglasses either on my nose or perched on my forehead, depending on whether I'm looking at the sun or not.
I most strongly encourage others to do likewise.
Cheers,
b&
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