Canon EOS 70D & EOS 7D Mark II Speculation [CR1]

[Richard8971]

OK, 7D, no flash, ISO 800,  1/664 sec, f8 with Canon EF-s 60mm macro. HAND-HELD, NO IS! Fast? Not hardly for the ISO setting (AND f8!!) and NO flash and NO IS and hand held!

This is after the Canon repair of course.

D

[briansquibb]

I dont have a 'before' picture because there has never been anything wrong with it.

Here is an example from my last shoot with the 7D.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D
Image Date: 2012-05-19 10:49:13 +0100
Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/9.0
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
ISO equiv: 250

IS on, panning mode - so shooting fast

[Richard8971]

I dont have a 'before' picture because there has never been anything wrong with it.

Here is an example from my last shoot with the 7D.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D
Image Date: 2012-05-19 10:49:13 +0100
Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/9.0
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
ISO equiv: 250

IS on, panning mode - so shooting fast

I just posted one with IS off. Do you have one?

D

[briansquibb]

OK, 7D, no flash, ISO 800,  1/664 sec, f8 with Canon EF-s 60mm macro. HAND-HELD, NO IS! Fast? Not hardly for the ISO setting (AND f8!!) and NO flash and NO IS and hand held!

This is after the Canon repair of course.

D

Read my definition of shooting fast. IS would have no effect after 1/100 so that is hardly startling

[briansquibb]

I just posted one with IS off. Do you have one?

I only use the 7D for sports so the lens are long so IS is needed - as in the example.

So you have seen my sharp picture are you now convinced my 7D is OK?

[Richard8971]

I just posted one with IS off. Do you have one?

I only use the 7D for sports so the lens are long so IS is needed - as in the example.

So you have seen my sharp picture are you now convinced my 7D is OK?

So IS is needed for sharp photos? (Now I am really confused) I used my 7 in low light were NO IS is possible (due to lens limitations, I.E. 60mm macro or 100mm macro) so no, I am not convinced, but whatever. My main point was to show the readers here that the focus issue of the 7D is REAL and that they SHOULD send their camera back to Canon if they have a problem and it is not up to you to tell them different. I only offer a second opinion on the matter, let the reader choose for themself what to do.

That's all.

D

[Richard8971]

Btw, with a bit of training I don't think it's that hard to tell motion blur from out of focus in most cases.

Whatever... tell that to the group I hang around with.

D

[briansquibb]

I just posted one with IS off. Do you have one?

I only use the 7D for sports so the lens are long so IS is needed - as in the example.

So you have seen my sharp picture are you now convinced my 7D is OK?

So IS is needed? I used my 7 in low light were NO IS is possible (due to lens limitations, I.E. 60mm macro or 100mm macro) so no, I am not convinced, but whatever. My main point was to show the readers here that the focus issue of the 7D is REAL and that they SHOULD send their camera back to Canon if they have a problem and it is not up to you to tell them different. I only offer a second opinion on the matter, let the reader choose for themself what to do.

That's all.

D

If you had understood my definition of shooting fast you would have seen that shooting with a 200mm lens on a 7D would need a shutter speed of at least 1/320 for no IS. As I was panning and wanted motion blur for the bg then I turned the IS to panning mode so IS allowed motion in the horizontal plane whilst reducing vertical motion. So I was shooting handheld at 1/250 with a 200m lens - no big deal as this is what many sports photographers do

Use of IS does not indicate an error with the 7D. The picture demonstrates that my 7D is very sharp - I am disappointed that you dont accept that.

[Richard8971]

Use of IS does not indicate an error with the 7D. The picture demonstrates that my 7D is very sharp - I am disappointed that you dont accept that.

But I posted a sharp photo (hand-held) without the use of IS. (Attached with a Canon BG-E7 grip mind you...) I am likewise dissapointed that you cannot provide one. Oh well. Goodnight.

D

[briansquibb]

Use of IS does not indicate an error with the 7D. The picture demonstrates that my 7D is very sharp - I am disappointed that you dont accept that.

But I posted a sharp photo (hand-held) without the use of IS. (Attached with a Canon BG-E7 grip mind you...) I am likewise dissapointed that you cannot provide one. Oh well. Goodnight.

D

So the use of IS for slow pictures masks the 7D AF problem? That is an interesting - is this Canon's official line - use and IS lens anf the problem goes away?

[Tcapp]

OK, 7D, no flash, ISO 800,  1/664 sec, f8 with Canon EF-s 60mm macro. HAND-HELD, NO IS! Fast? Not hardly for the ISO setting (AND f8!!) and NO flash and NO IS and hand held!

This is after the Canon repair of course.

D

Just curious, did you push the fill light on that file? It looks a little bright and noisy in the BG...

[jordanbstead]

When are people going to realize that IS doesn't matter above 1/125 if shooting with a lens 135mm or longer?  If you're shooting at 1/800th, how would you even manage to blur a photo with camera shake?  It's practically physically impossible.

[Tcapp]

When are people going to realize that IS doesn't matter above 1/125 if shooting with a lens 135mm or longer?  If you're shooting at 1/800th, how would you even manage to blur a photo with camera shake?  It's practically physically impossible.

If you are shooting at 200mm at 1/125 of a second? Yea, I think IS might be a huge help there! Not sure what you are getting at? If you are shooting at 1/8000 of a second, then I don't think IS would make a lick of difference, but under 1/1000 of a second? Depending on the focal length, and weight of the lens, IS can make a huge difference.

The general rule of thumb is your shutter speed should be at LEAST 1/focal length. So if you shoot a 200mm lens, your shutter should be at LEAST 1/200. If you really want to be safe, you should at least double that speed. That is why IS is so important.

[briansquibb]

The general rule of thumb is your shutter speed should be at LEAST 1/focal length. So if you shoot a 200mm lens, your shutter should be at LEAST 1/200. If you really want to be safe, you should at least double that speed. That is why IS is so important.

Dont forget the crop, so on a crop a 200 it should be a minimum of 1/320.

[Marsu42]

When are people going to realize that IS doesn't matter above 1/125 if shooting with a lens 135mm or longer?

When will people realize that IS is not only about reducing shutter speed? The main benefit for me is that it stabilizes the viewfinder, helping composition and enabling handheld hdr shots w/o too much difference between shots. And the most important thing at longer focal ranges: it helps tremendously to position the af point where I want it to be, so I'm getting many more keepers.