Rumors > Lenses

Pano question for 24TSE

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MARKOE PHOTOE:
I'm using a Really Right Stuff pano head assembly with the BH55 head and 5D3 and Canon 24TSE lens. 

Has anyone used a similar combination in the field by shifting the lens in both directions and then rotating the camera on the pano head to create a wider field of view?

neuroanatomist:
You'll still get parallax, if that's your question.  The way to avoid that is equal and opposite shifting of the lens and camera - in effect, it means moving the camera not the lens.  There are actually lens collar mounts for the TS-E lenses that facilitate that, such as this one. 

DavidRiesenberg:
You can always do it manually, mounting the camera on a rail. Not as accurate as neuro's suggestion obviously, but good enough for a lot of situations.

tron:
I was thinking of the hartblei collar alot (Let me add that I learned its existence through this site a few months ago :)  )
but I think it is very expensive considering that it costs as a top panoramic head.

So I would like opinions. I guess that as always the answer to the question if it is worth the cost is depends on what you use it for!

But I was wondering if it would be possible to not only produce a composite image by shifting  the lens but also
by rotating the collar. Which raises the question: Have the collar creators taken into account the nodal point?

Since it supports 2 TS-E lenses I somehow doubt it. But I am not an expert on that hence this question.

paul13walnut5:
When I had my 24 TS-E I used it for a couple of parralax free panoramas, but only on the basis of a static body and shots the the shifted and rotated lens.

I had a couple of issues:

As you shift you gradually lose sharpness and increase vignetting, which is easy to correct on a single image from one lens, but is very difficult to counteract on a composite image with lots of sweet spots and lots of zones of fall-off.

Using filters became impossible for the same reason.

The process was pretty slow, so there was often cloud, people, tide movement etc.

I enjoyed far more success using a 28mm lens (on APS-C format - so a 42mm for FF) and a basic pano markedhead.

I have a video tripod with a levelling bowl, which makes also makes these images work a lot better.

I wouldn't use a TS-E lens if you have any thought at all about moving the camera.  The TS-E lenses were designed specifically so you wouldn't have to move the camera (i.e. keeping the image plane level)

I would opt for a Voigtlander 40mm f2.  Or a zoom that you trust at approx 42mm.

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