Gear Talk > EOS Bodies - For Stills
1DX new all-time low-light king?
sanj:
--- Quote from: nightbreath on July 18, 2012, 09:28:31 AM ---
--- Quote from: LetTheRightLensIn on July 17, 2012, 09:19:29 PM ---
--- Quote from: nightbreath on July 17, 2012, 03:15:22 PM ---I saw this, but it won't show me real-life possibilities that I can use. I'm interested in how far I can push image colors (change saturation, lightness, tones of specific color palettes) using each camera without blowing away the IQ.
I've posted couple of sample shots 4 articles above.
--- End quote ---
what ISOs did you use shoot them at (EXIF is stripped) and did you raise the bright parts or darken the dark parts or was that done with reflectors?
(nice shots btw)
--- End quote ---
ISO 100, pushing the dark or bright parts can be applied, but not by much. Having good image quality (well-lit saturated details all over the shot) is vital in our approach.
P.S. These are self-portraits :)
--- End quote ---
I like your photos! Which lens?
LetTheRightLensIn:
--- Quote from: nightbreath on July 18, 2012, 09:28:31 AM ---
--- Quote from: LetTheRightLensIn on July 17, 2012, 09:19:29 PM ---
--- Quote from: nightbreath on July 17, 2012, 03:15:22 PM ---I saw this, but it won't show me real-life possibilities that I can use. I'm interested in how far I can push image colors (change saturation, lightness, tones of specific color palettes) using each camera without blowing away the IQ.
I've posted couple of sample shots 4 articles above.
--- End quote ---
what ISOs did you use shoot them at (EXIF is stripped) and did you raise the bright parts or darken the dark parts or was that done with reflectors?
(nice shots btw)
--- End quote ---
ISO 100, pushing the dark or bright parts can be applied, but not by much. Having good image quality (well-lit saturated details all over the shot) is vital in our approach.
P.S. These are self-portraits :)
--- End quote ---
If you really like to save highlights and pull shadows in large dynamic range ISO100 shots, honestly the D800 is best at that, next best is probably D3x and then finally the D4.
1Ds3 might be marginally better than 1DX but not sure the exact difference, probably not enough to really matter but it might have just a little less banding, and both should be a little bit better than the 5D3 in that regard. All should be a little bit better than the 7D since they have less banding (although 7D are variable you might have a very good copy).
If you can do enough with the 7D to satisfy your needs in terms of dynamic range then just go for one of the Canon FF (1Ds3 and 1DX with somewhat less banding than the 5D3). If you feel like you want to be able to push and pull at least 2-3 stops more then Nikon is unfortunately where it is at (http://www.fredmiranda.com/5DIII-D800/index_controlled-tests.html).
nightbreath:
--- Quote from: LetTheRightLensIn on July 18, 2012, 02:58:57 PM ---then just go for one of the Canon FF (1Ds3 and 1DX with somewhat less banding than the 5D3).
--- End quote ---
So we came to my initial question :) However the more I think about this the more I understand that 1Ds is not on par with possibilities of new cameras. How would you determine camera sensor performance? You said you have more banding than other 5D Mark III copies, so I assume you compared black frames shot with the same shutter speed? Then just push exposure to +4 stops?
--- Quote from: sanj on July 18, 2012, 01:19:36 PM ---I like your photos! Which lens?
--- End quote ---
Fast primes give excellent results :)
nightbreath:
--- Quote from: LetTheRightLensIn on July 16, 2012, 05:11:52 AM ---Along these lines I've noted that my 5D3 has a bit worse vertical banding at low ISO than some otehr copies :(
--- End quote ---
It might happen that banding becomes more or less apparent from shot to shot, because of its volatility (also it can be affected by shooting conditions, I think). Did you compare several images or just one?
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