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Author Topic: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8  (Read 9425 times)

Cgdillan

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All of them are at this link: http://www.stockhammedia.com/photo/concert-photography-album-1/
All posted here are 5D mkIII with Canon 70-200 2.8 non-is. a few in this album on my site are 60d and the really wide stuff is t2i. Let me now what you think! my first concert stuff. Difficult lighting









« Last Edit: June 28, 2012, 06:11:34 PM by Cgdillan »
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wickidwombat

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i like that lens flare on the first shot,
1 thing about the 70-200 f2.8 IS II is it is amost impossible to get a shot like that as it pretty much stops all flare so you cant get some creative flare like that. A nice benefit of the older lens IMO
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Cgdillan

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i agree =-) love old stuff =-)
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

RLPhoto

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Too much flare for my tastes. :P

cayenne

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Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

asmundma

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#1 his face is too little exposed. #2 the mic hides his face. #3 too much flare. #4 need more colur, more saturation.
The laste one is nice, but you may crop it somewhat..
Sorry for .......
1DX, 5D3, 5D2, 24L, 16-35L II, 24-70L II, 24-105L, 100L  f2.8, 70-200L 2.8 II IS, 85L f1.2, sigma 50, 2x600RT

Cgdillan

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Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

I shot aperture priority with 70-200mm at f/2.8 at iso 3200-6400. auto white balance. if there are a lot of tungsten lights then use tungsten white balance. I ended up switching most of my shots to tungsten wb in lightroom. I had to set the exposure compensation -1 stop or else the shot would have been over exposed due to all the black in the background. each shot you focus on take 2- 4 times to bring up your possibility of getting a sharp shot. evaluative metering mode. i would probably rely on your 85mm if it is tight enough as you will really need to push your iso up if you used the 24-105. you could use you 24-105 at 4.0 with "is" turned on and iso 6400-12800. you will still get great shots since the mkIII is SO great with high iso. hope that helps! i didn't have much issue with silhouettes since the black in the background made the camera want to come up in exposure.
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

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Cgdillan

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#1 his face is too little exposed. #2 the mic hides his face. #3 too much flare. #4 need more colur, more saturation.
The laste one is nice, but you may crop it somewhat..
Sorry for .......

I appreciate you critique. I personally like the shadow on the face in #1 and the effect of it was more focused on the lighting and flare. #2 i wanted this shot as it is kinda of interesting/off-putting with the combination of the look on his face and the mic covering his nose. #3 i agree. lots of flare but matter of opinion on how much is used. but i still appreciate your input. #4 i feel would make the flare too strong and apparent if there was more saturation since the entire shots has a green overlay. #5 i liked the idea of having the singer suspended in empty space. and i wanted to keep the aspect ratio the same. But your thought are something to think about as a customer may have different opinions then mine. the rest of the of the shots are here: http://www.stockhammedia.com/photo/concert-photography-album-1/ if your interested =-)
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

wickidwombat

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Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

shoot manual keep your shutter at 1/100 if possible at f1.8 or f2 your are probably going to be in the iso 4000 to iso 8000 range tweek your iso to suit if its really dark you might need 12800

the 17-40 at f4 you would probably need to be at 1/50 and 25600 iso but subject motion might be an issue at such a slow shutter speed

i was shooting f2.8 with the 16-35 at 12800

dont be afraid of a little highlight clipping as you can recover that but make sure you are not under exposing your subjects

forget aperture priority it will not be good
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Cgdillan

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Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

shoot manual keep your shutter at 1/100 if possible at f1.8 or f2 your are probably going to be in the iso 4000 to iso 8000 range tweek your iso to suit if its really dark you might need 12800

the 17-40 at f4 you would probably need to be at 1/50 and 25600 iso but subject motion might be an issue at such a slow shutter speed

i was shooting f2.8 with the 16-35 at 12800

dont be afraid of a little highlight clipping as you can recover that but make sure you are not under exposing your subjects

forget aperture priority it will not be good

 I agree with many of you points. But i shot the entire job without any improperly exposed shots. where as the lighting changes you may become too overexposed to recover. Don't forget these cameras do far better recovering shadows than highlights. If it seems the lighting is pretty constant then shoot manual. If not then i would recommend Av. Definitely do not be afraid shooting iso 12800 on the 5D mkIII as the images are amazingly useable. I would recommend using the 24-105 also because it has IS and hand shake will be greatly reduced.
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

wickidwombat

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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2012, 12:04:36 AM »
Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

shoot manual keep your shutter at 1/100 if possible at f1.8 or f2 your are probably going to be in the iso 4000 to iso 8000 range tweek your iso to suit if its really dark you might need 12800

the 17-40 at f4 you would probably need to be at 1/50 and 25600 iso but subject motion might be an issue at such a slow shutter speed

i was shooting f2.8 with the 16-35 at 12800

dont be afraid of a little highlight clipping as you can recover that but make sure you are not under exposing your subjects

forget aperture priority it will not be good

 I agree with many of you points. But i shot the entire job without any improperly exposed shots. where as the lighting changes you may become too overexposed to recover. Don't forget these cameras do far better recovering shadows than highlights. If it seems the lighting is pretty constant then shoot manual. If not then i would recommend Av. Definitely do not be afraid shooting iso 12800 on the 5D mkIII as the images are amazingly useable. I would recommend using the 24-105 also because it has IS and hand shake will be greatly reduced.
sorry i was'nt clear the concert i shot was just a small pub thing with no changing lights very dim but really uneven light different people with 3 or 4 stops of light difference between them i'll pop a few pics up in a bit
changing lights add, strobes etc really throw in another level of complexity
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Cgdillan

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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2012, 11:00:53 AM »
wicki..yeah the manual setting would be good though Auto ISO I think is the only option there true?

Those colored lights can (and have) ruined a lot of good concert shots.  Whenever possible I try and avoid as many red light shots as possible wheras green and blue are manageable.  Here's two taken on the 7D with the 70-300 L IS USM lens last fall.  Both hand held and a good distance from the stage (about 100+ feet).

On the Strawbs (Dave Cousins) photo settings were:  1/40, F5, 214mm, ISO 3200 Manual White Balance.  The 1/40 was a bit too low at certain times as to be expected when artist had more movement.  As wicki mentioned 1/100 would be good but not slower than 1/60

The Zombies (Colin Blunstone) setting were:  1/30, F 5.6, 300mm, IS 3200, Manual White Balance.

Post processing done in DPP.

If you don't mind some criticism.. These shots are a good starting point but it seems your subjects torsos and anything that is not skin get lost in the background. I would suggest maybe finding a part of the background that is lit differently to pull your subjects out. they are also a bit on the cooler side of wb. it also may be nice to get shots from another angle. If your using auto iso then you may as well be using Av or Tv. I personally never trust auto iso, although that is just preference. I also wouldn't be too afraid of reds and stronger colors as you can use them as an effect in your shots when handled properly in framing and exposure.
For the shots that are slower than 100th/s i make sure to take anywhere from 2-4 shots in burst of the same shot to helps my chances of getting the shots.
Just my 2 cents. =-)
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

revup67

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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #12 on: July 06, 2012, 02:18:20 AM »
Quote
If you don't mind some criticism..
nope, provided it is within my control

Quote
These shots are a good starting point but it seems your subjects torsos and anything that is not skin get lost in the background. I would suggest maybe finding a part of the background that is lit differently to pull your subjects out. they are also a bit on the cooler side of wb. it also may be nice to get shots from another angle.

Well, I would disagree as far as getting lost in the background.  Background (as the word implies) is not as important as the subject matter (foreground).  Wish I had time to pose these legends so they could have stood away from the blocking mike stands or off to the right where there was a stage door but sadly that wasn't an option.  This was at a major concert hall, not a pub.  They also didn't move around much as both Colin and Dave are 71 years old.  Dave Cousins sat in that chair during the Strawbs entire performance.   Colin (from the Zombies)was flanked by his keyboardist Rod Argent (Argent) and his guitarist as well as bassist Jim Rodford (Kinks).  There were mike stands, cables and other things that would have made the shots more distracting with respect to background.  Easy for me on this monitor to distinguish not sure on your end ??  Bear in mind, No flash is allowed in this club that takes care of that and all I had to work with was the over head lights.  Whatever they lit up at the time of the photo is what I had available (and those were the best as red, green and blue where the other stage light options).  Did you notice how both artists had on dark / black clothing?  Not much of an option there as well..again dealing only with the club lights (no control).  Perhaps in Post with the RAW I could have deselected AWB or As Shot and went with a Tungsten light or Color Temp though that would have made the photo look less than how it originally appeared.  I did bring a WhiBal Pro white balance 18% gray card for White correction so what you see is matched with that card. (note EXIF is listed "custom" for white balance.)  The club was literally jammed.  They escort you back to your seat if your not seated and chairs were blocking both sides of the stage.  Had to stand back near the men's room just to pop these out.  I've been shooting pics since the late 70s and video since the early 80s so I am aware of moving around and getting different angles.  I climb, lay on the ground, step on chairs etc all for the unusual perspective..when accessible (I even trespass at times :)  Unfortunately this was the only good place.


Quote
If your using auto iso then you may as well be using Av or Tv. I personally never trust auto iso, although that is just preference. I also wouldn't be too afraid of reds and stronger colors as you can use them as an effect in your shots when handled properly in framing and exposure.

Not a big fan of reds interfering with closeup shots as these but that's just my preference..I simply don't like the look "as much" unless I'm going to convert to B&W that that creates a whole new scenario.  The reason I chose AUTO ISO is due to the unpredictablility of the light as it changes moment by moment. It's not like I am outdoors for an hour where the lighting is consistent or if a flash was available. Sometimes the vocalist had one light, 5 lights 3 lights, flashing lights, shadowy light..auto ISO was the best option as I was more concerned with over or under exposures occurring.  In film days at indoor shows I'd almost always pick ISO 1000 and was fairly successful but why go that high if not necessary.  I'd rather have the camera intelligently auto negotiate at say 800 vs. a steady 1000 and get inconsistency which allows me to focus more on the shot than the mechanics.

Quote
For the shots that are slower than 100th/s i make sure to take anywhere from 2-4 shots in burst of the same shot to helps my chances of getting the shots.
Just my 2 cents. =-)
yes I would agree with this and did take quite a few but perhaps could have taken more.  You would have had to been at this show to understand the surroundings and how to work with them (I will spare the elaboration).  Thanks for the offering of tips..though I am not sure your style and my style overlap at all.  Not a big fan of shadows or mikes in peoples faces, excessive lens flare or photos swaying too far away from the subject matter that the subject gets convoluted..again that's just my preference you have your own style which makes us all unique.  That's my two cents.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2012, 02:59:14 AM by revup67 »
Thanks
Rev
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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #12 on: July 06, 2012, 02:18:20 AM »

Cgdillan

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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2012, 03:11:16 AM »

Well, I would disagree as far as getting lost in the background.  Background (as the word implies) is not as important as the subject matter (foreground).
The background is not really important. What is important is your subject being separate from the background to be able to distinguish your subject properly. Otherwise you just have a head and two arms floating in the blackness.

I did bring a WhiBal Pro white balance 18% gray card for White correction so what you see is matched with that card. (note EXIF is listed "custom" for white balance.)
WB gray cards can produce off images when using custom WB. so that would explain why it looks  on the cooler side. Custom WB just means AWB based on the gray card shot but is applied to all other images with custom WB. This leaves room for error on the cameras side.

There are more shots on my site in this album if you want to check them out. they have fewer flares and mics in peoples faces. I just posted these since they seem to have some more character. http://www.stockhammedia.com/photo/concert-photography-album-1/

And i'm really not trying to bash your shots and i more than understand that there are some tight situations where you have very little control. That usually means no-so-great shots. i would recommend doing some post to bring out the torsos of your subjects and maybe warm them up just a bit. and i am on a brand new 27" iMac which is know for it's incredible image quality and color rendition. so I'm pretty sure i'm seeing these images properly.
2x 5D mkiii, 7D, 60D, T2i, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Bower 14mm f/2.8, Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye, 24mm L f/1.4 ii, Sigma 35mm ART f/1.4, 24-105mm L f/4.0 IS, 50mm f/1.8 ii, 85mm L f/1.2 ii, 100mm L Macro f/2.8 IS, 135mm L f2.0 75-300mm f/4-5.6, 70-200mm L f/2.8, Sigma 70-200mm OS f/2.8. StockhamMedia.com

Cgdillan

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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2012, 03:14:23 AM »
Few more shots








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Re: Concert Photos - 5D mkIII with 70-200 2.8 non-is and tokina 11-16 2.8
« Reply #14 on: July 06, 2012, 03:14:23 AM »