Gear Talk > Lenses
Lens Filters etc.
jasonmillard81:
Good Morning,
I have the following lenses for my 60D:
Tokinon 17-55 (2.8)
Canon 50 (1.8)
Sigma 85 (1.4)
I was curious on a few things (i've used google but haven't found a centralized easy read on these questions):
1. What is the main purpose of filters etc. for lenses
2. Will adding a filter, etc., help bring clarity/sharpness to my focused images in video mode?
3. How best should they be applied (indoor vs. outdoor)
Best,
Jason
neuroanatomist:
With a dSLR, only 4 types of filters are useful (not counting special effects things like starburst filters):
* UV/clear - Protection of the front element (there are many debates on the utility of this, and regardless of filter, you should use a hood). Personally, I have B+W MRC UV filters on almost all my lenses (except the 40/2.8 pancake)
* Circular polarizer - increase saturation, reduce reflections
* Neutral density - slow shutter speeds on bright days (moving water, etc.), shooting fast primes wide open outdoors for portraits
* Grad ND - controlling sky vs. ground exposure, these should be the rectangular ones, not screw-in circular filters
Cheap filters will reduce IQ, not improve it. The effects of CPLs and NDs can't be replicated in post, grad ND's maybe with HDR but it's not the same effect.
peederj:
I dunno, does diffusion count as a "special effects filter?"
I think most filters on the market are conceivably useful, in that being able to interact with them during capture means that you will make a more appropriate capture rather than just imagine what you're going to do to the image when you get it into Photoshop. Say Antique Suede or Skintone Enhancer or yellow filters in live view monochrome mode...these are going to affect how you perceive your composition and will do so in a way digital ones won't always handle the same way.
For grad filters, going with 4x4 format (via e.g. the Lee 82mm WA adapter) or Cokin P system etc. will allow you free sliding of the gradient point for your composition, as opposed to screw-ins. Both screw-ins and 4x4 are a bit fiddly to deal with changing in practice. I am a believer in using decent UV filters on lenses by default for safety though I don't hesitate to pull them off if there is unwanted flare etc. I am a skeptic when people insist you have to spend a lot of money to get decent filters...there are certainly bad ones but there are also very good bargains I'd challenge anyone to identify damage from blind.
RLPhoto:
--- Quote from: neuroanatomist on August 09, 2012, 09:55:29 AM ---With a dSLR, only 4 types of filters are useful (not counting special effects things like starburst filters):
* UV/clear - Protection of the front element (there are many debates on the utility of this, and regardless of filter, you should use a hood). Personally, I have B+W MRC UV filters on almost all my lenses (except the 40/2.8 pancake)
* Circular polarizer - increase saturation, reduce reflections
* Neutral density - slow shutter speeds on bright days (moving water, etc.), shooting fast primes wide open outdoors for portraits
* Grad ND - controlling sky vs. ground exposure, these should be the rectangular ones, not screw-in circular filters
Cheap filters will reduce IQ, not improve it. The effects of CPLs and NDs can't be replicated in post, grad ND's maybe with HDR but it's not the same effect.
--- End quote ---
+1. Especially on the UV filter issue. Use B&W filters and leave em on. Shoot and don't worry about your front element.
Quasimodo:
--- Quote from: neuroanatomist on August 09, 2012, 09:55:29 AM ---With a dSLR, only 4 types of filters are useful (not counting special effects things like starburst filters):
* UV/clear - Protection of the front element (there are many debates on the utility of this, and regardless of filter, you should use a hood). Personally, I have B+W MRC UV filters on almost all my lenses (except the 40/2.8 pancake)
* Circular polarizer - increase saturation, reduce reflections
* Neutral density - slow shutter speeds on bright days (moving water, etc.), shooting fast primes wide open outdoors for portraits
* Grad ND - controlling sky vs. ground exposure, these should be the rectangular ones, not screw-in circular filters
Cheap filters will reduce IQ, not improve it. The effects of CPLs and NDs can't be replicated in post, grad ND's maybe with HDR but it's not the same effect.
--- End quote ---
I am a bit puzzled.. I have UV protection filters on all my lenses for protection, and Circular ND, and CPL. It is the latter where I am now confused. I thought that the effects you get using a CPL could all be replicated in pp if you shoot in RAW (except for reflections, unless you are very skilled in photoshop). I have mainly used it for for reflections, although I like the saturation they give.
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