50mm f1.4 group photo

[CANONPRO123]

now maybe im missing something or i see something no one else does, but it does seem that your lens must need some micro adjustment (i know my 50 1.4 did on my 5d3) bc it seems like the camera is focused on the back wall...

[Northstar]

To my eye, nothing in this image is in focus, it all looks a bit fuzzy.  So I think it's just a simple case of slow 1/20 shutter speed, and you moved.

1/60 at a minimum for this shot IMO.

[pdirestajr]

I think the problem is that you are using a 5DIII, which if you read enough threads on CR, you'll learn is a terrible camera. And that you aren't using an L lens. All non L lenses are total rubbish an should only be used as doorstops. You need a 50mm f/1.2L and NEVER use it at any other setting besides f/1.2! Just focus on one person's most interesting eyelash- Who cares about the rest. I need to see some bokeh!

Um, just kidding. I think lots of people covered possible fixes. Shallow DOF + slow shutter speeds + moving subjects = tough.

[bbasiaga]

I think the problem is that you are using a 5DIII, which if you read enough threads on CR, you'll learn is a terrible camera. And that you aren't using an L lens. All non L lenses are total rubbish an should only be used as doorstops. You need a 50mm f/1.2L and NEVER use it at any other setting besides f/1.2! Just focus on one person's most interesting eyelash- Who cares about the rest. I need to see some bokeh!

Um, just kidding. I think lots of people covered possible fixes. Shallow DOF + slow shutter speeds + moving subjects = tough.

You forgot to mention that this photo wasn't taken with a Nikon, and therefore had no chance for success from the beginning.  LOL! 

On a serious note, what is MFD for thr 50 1.4?  A lot of times as you approach that, the images get a little soft. 

-Brian

[DB]

The slowest recommended handheld shutter speed is 1/60s, but like many others above have said, an even faster shutter speed of 1/100s to 1/125s is infinitely preferable - just even to capture the image at the correct moment and to avoid say people blinking.

Regarding the correct focusing, if you choose AF mode then your camera will choose the closest object/person, it might be a good idea to try Live View next time (pops the mirror up too), then hit the zoom button twice so you get 10x magnification, then focus in on the person's eyes who is sitting in the middle. Then take your shot. You can also select an optimum aperture (often f5.6 to f8) for your specific lens and keep the ISO at 200 or 400 when shooting even well-lit scenes like this indoors.

Finally, one simple trick often used by Pro's and enthusiasts is to switch to Hi-Speed shooting and take multiple shots in succession, that way you can minimize any handshake effect, as you'll have several exposures to choose from (then delete the OOF ones in-camera)

[5D Freak]

I reckon 1/80s, F2.8, Iso 800 - pic is over exposed by 1.5 steps - just my opinion. Looks like you have used spot metering on this one. For group shots, I would use a more overall metering. Just reduce the exposure - it is at night time anyway. If you shot RAW, you can pull it back in post. I find it very difficult to freeze action with people at everything over 1/60s. Background might be ok, but people move! Even renders image stabilizing ineffective!

[5D Freak]

Totally agree with the previous post to. However, I find live view a bit cumbersome when dealing with people photos handheld. Live view on the fly is a technique to master for me. I just like to look through the viewfinder to aquire focus and framing - just so used to the centrepoint focus/recompose with the 5DII. Don't be afraid of taking multiple shots (up to 6 or 7 at 3fps for 5DII) as memory cards are cheap and you can pick the best frame. Apeture f9 is a way too closed apeture at iso12800. I would be targeting f2.0 to f2.8 for most stuff (lets more light in) at iso 1600 or less for printing. iso 6400/12800 is for facebook purposes only IMO. You were taking this pic from a long range, so you depth of field should cover focus on all subjects at f/2.8 or f/4.0 at worst - esp if all subjects lie close to the focus plane (multiple rows of people in a group shot may require f/5.6). All about trial and error. Different photographers have different styles and you will develop your own. Just have fun taking the picks and you will find what works for you!

[philsv77]

I don't recommend using tripod to shoot portrait as it's too sssssslow to act and there is not much difference in sharpness.  You may need it if you want to print anything > 24 x 36in.  Otherwise, dont.  With the right technique and practice, you will get a sharp photo without tripod.

With just ambient light as main light, you will have to use fast speed, ~1/100s for a non-moving subjects (general rule is 1/focal length as some already mentioned) for medium lens.  If you shoot kids, forget it.  YOu will need at least 1/200s.

With flash acting as main light, you can drag the shutter, meaning you can shoot as slow as 1/15s without getting blurry.  See the following shot taken @1/20s, f/5.0, 800 ISO.