Your Canon EOS-1D X user tips

[wycmfdm]

Set to Av Mode
ISO Safety shift = ON
Set aperture to say, f/6.3
Set Min shutter speed to 1/500
ISO = AUTO

Shoot away

How do you set min shutter speed to 1/500? Under auto ISO I saw the min speed is 1/250?

[Viggo]

Set to Av Mode
ISO Safety shift = ON
Set aperture to say, f/6.3
Set Min shutter speed to 1/500
ISO = AUTO

Shoot away

How do you set min shutter speed to 1/500? Under auto ISO I saw the min speed is 1/250?

Cn.f 2: Exposure Set shutterspeed range.

[bdunbar79]

Thank you Viggo.  Yes, it's under a Custom function, not the main menu min shutter speed.  You must register this setting.

[Viggo]

Reikan Focal with 1d X support released (version 1.6)

[neuroanatomist]

Reikan Focal with 1d X support released (version 1.6)

Excellent, thanks for the update!! 

FWIW, just like the 5DIII you need to use the MSC mode, fully automatic calibration isn't available.

[Bosman]

I will have to try the safety shift since it now includes iso. My 5d & 1DM3 don't have it so its new to me. I remember trying it in 2007 and found at the time if it was underexposed at least i can work with it but if its blurry its useless. I shot Aperture priority then but use manual for most my work now.
Viggo, i thought the guide was pretty good at explaining it plus in camera you can check info for each setting and it will explain what it does. If you guys go to like an office supplies place it can  be printed but i would use the 12mg version of this document because i downsized this one for posting. I'd try case 5 or 6 for kids!
For instance i wanted bikes case 3 for shooting bikes @ triathlons, when you select the case the info button explains its use then when you go to adjust tracking sensitivity, Accel./decel tracking, or af point auto switching you can press and hold the info button and it further explains what changes to the sensitivities will mean. I kept it the same but changed the accel/decel to zero from 1 because i wanted it to track better than switch subjects. This setting means quick refocussing for each new subject but hold the tracking down so as not to end up focusing on another bike without your intent if the focus point moves slightly off your subject.

Thanks, I just watched the video, I didn't have time to read the AF-guide through yet. But the info on the display is okay I guess, but I feel like I'm just trying stuff and going back to case 1 as that gives the best results, however it doesn't work when there's a very sudden change of speed or direction. I'll give the other cases a more thorough try and read through the guide.

On a happy sidenot I shot my son indoor in okay, but not great light with the 85 L II, and shot off 8 pictures at 12 fps and it tracked his face hidden under a cap VERY nicely! All of them same level sharp.



Middle of the burst, I liked this one because of the mid air capture and his face being a victim to gravity

I dig the photo Vig!

[Viggo]

I will have to try the safety shift since it now includes iso. My 5d & 1DM3 don't have it so its new to me. I remember trying it in 2007 and found at the time if it was underexposed at least i can work with it but if its blurry its useless. I shot Aperture priority then but use manual for most my work now.
Viggo, i thought the guide was pretty good at explaining it plus in camera you can check info for each setting and it will explain what it does. If you guys go to like an office supplies place it can  be printed but i would use the 12mg version of this document because i downsized this one for posting. I'd try case 5 or 6 for kids!
For instance i wanted bikes case 3 for shooting bikes @ triathlons, when you select the case the info button explains its use then when you go to adjust tracking sensitivity, Accel./decel tracking, or af point auto switching you can press and hold the info button and it further explains what changes to the sensitivities will mean. I kept it the same but changed the accel/decel to zero from 1 because i wanted it to track better than switch subjects. This setting means quick refocussing for each new subject but hold the tracking down so as not to end up focusing on another bike without your intent if the focus point moves slightly off your subject.

Thanks, I just watched the video, I didn't have time to read the AF-guide through yet. But the info on the display is okay I guess, but I feel like I'm just trying stuff and going back to case 1 as that gives the best results, however it doesn't work when there's a very sudden change of speed or direction. I'll give the other cases a more thorough try and read through the guide.

On a happy sidenot I shot my son indoor in okay, but not great light with the 85 L II, and shot off 8 pictures at 12 fps and it tracked his face hidden under a cap VERY nicely! All of them same level sharp.



Middle of the burst, I liked this one because of the mid air capture and his face being a victim to gravity

I dig the photo Vig!

Thanks! Just a snapshot really, but the 1d X is like the first time I watched "Time Warp" , I catch moments I haven't seen in my pictures before... Loving it!

The edge of the cap is blurry and his ears are blurry at f1,6, but eyes sharp, I think that is pretty incredible, he was running fast and was very close to me.

[Bosman]

I will have to try the safety shift since it now includes iso. My 5d & 1DM3 don't have it so its new to me. I remember trying it in 2007 and found at the time if it was underexposed at least i can work with it but if its blurry its useless. I shot Aperture priority then but use manual for most my work now.
Viggo, i thought the guide was pretty good at explaining it plus in camera you can check info for each setting and it will explain what it does. If you guys go to like an office supplies place it can  be printed but i would use the 12mg version of this document because i downsized this one for posting. I'd try case 5 or 6 for kids!
For instance i wanted bikes case 3 for shooting bikes @ triathlons, when you select the case the info button explains its use then when you go to adjust tracking sensitivity, Accel./decel tracking, or af point auto switching you can press and hold the info button and it further explains what changes to the sensitivities will mean. I kept it the same but changed the accel/decel to zero from 1 because i wanted it to track better than switch subjects. This setting means quick refocussing for each new subject but hold the tracking down so as not to end up focusing on another bike without your intent if the focus point moves slightly off your subject.

Thanks, I just watched the video, I didn't have time to read the AF-guide through yet. But the info on the display is okay I guess, but I feel like I'm just trying stuff and going back to case 1 as that gives the best results, however it doesn't work when there's a very sudden change of speed or direction. I'll give the other cases a more thorough try and read through the guide.

On a happy sidenot I shot my son indoor in okay, but not great light with the 85 L II, and shot off 8 pictures at 12 fps and it tracked his face hidden under a cap VERY nicely! All of them same level sharp.



Middle of the burst, I liked this one because of the mid air capture and his face being a victim to gravity

I dig the photo Vig!

Thanks! Just a snapshot really, but the 1d X is like the first time I watched "Time Warp" , I catch moments I haven't seen in my pictures before... Loving it!

The edge of the cap is blurry and his ears are blurry at f1,6, but eyes sharp, I think that is pretty incredible, he was running fast and was very close to me.

 Dad is a paparazzi!

[neuroanatomist]

...the 1d X is like the first time I watched "Time Warp" , I catch moments I haven't seen in my pictures before...

+1 - I really love those key moments captured at 12 fps that would have been between frames with most other cameras.


EOS 1D X, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM @ 70mm, 1/200 s, f/2.8, ISO 100

[Bosman]

Impecable shot Neuro! dont you love how well the camera renders color? I have the 5dm3 and if its anything like that the colors are pretty accurate most the time!

[Bosman]

Ok i am highjacking because mine is bigger.

[Viggo]

Awesome shots, and very inspiring!

I'm going to a Wakeboard contest tomorrow, now, take a wild guess if I miss my 300 f2,8 for that!

I'll at least go and see how close I can get with the 135.

Which case would be the best? I mean they move kind of crazy around their own axis, but they get pulled by boat or wire and keep a pretty constant movement forward, although going up and down.

I'm thinking 8 surrounded and case 5 or 6?

"dad is a paparazzi" I think I can document my kids life by the minute in pictures, 

[Richard Lane]

I'm going to a Wakeboard contest tomorrow, now, take a wild guess if I miss my 300 f2,8 for that!

Which case would be the best? I mean they move kind of crazy around their own axis, but they get pulled by boat or wire and keep a pretty constant movement forward, although going up and down.

I'm thinking 8 surrounded and case 5 or 6?

That's a total bummer about about the 300 f/2.8.  I would agree with you that Case 5 or 6, sounds about right.  It seems that the only difference between 5 and 6 is the accel/decel setting.  Case 5 provides for a more steady speed and Case 6 appears to be better for changes in speed.

Case 5 example has a skateboarder and a figure skater.
Case 6 example has a Rhythmic Gymnast.

Although wake-boarders are pulled by the boat, they can generate a lot of acceleration when jumping across the wake while pulling on the rope.  Then when they land they do slow down a bit as they hit the water. They can also generate some acceleration by turning sharply and cutting behind the boat.  Since I think the wakeboarder can generate more accel/decel than the skateboarder, I would probably try case 6 first. 

I would agree with you that AF point expansion 8 surrounding points should be good.

Just some logical thinking here and no real experience, since the camera is so new.

Good Luck,
Rich

[Viggo]

I'm going to a Wakeboard contest tomorrow, now, take a wild guess if I miss my 300 f2,8 for that!

Which case would be the best? I mean they move kind of crazy around their own axis, but they get pulled by boat or wire and keep a pretty constant movement forward, although going up and down.

I'm thinking 8 surrounded and case 5 or 6?

That's a total bummer about about the 300 f/2.8.  I would agree with you that Case 5 or 6, sounds about right.  It seems that the only difference between 5 and 6 is the accel/decel setting.  Case 5 provides for a more steady speed and Case 6 appears to be better for changes in speed.

Case 5 example has a skateboarder and a figure skater.
Case 6 example has a Rhythmic Gymnast.

Although wake-boarders are pulled by the boat, they can generate a lot of acceleration when jumping across the wake while pulling on the rope.  Then when they land they do slow down a bit as they hit the water. They can also generate some acceleration by turning sharply and cutting behind the boat.  Since I think the wakeboarder can generate more accel/decel than the skateboarder, I would probably try case 6 first. 

I would agree with you that AF point expansion 8 surrounding points should be good.

Just some logical thinking here and no real experience, since the camera is so new.

Good Luck,
Rich

Thanks! This seems very much like what I was thinking, but better !

[WesternGuy]

I would like to thank Borman for the reference to AF Manual and Richard Lane for the references to the online tutorials.  They will help me learn the ins and outs of my new 1D X.

WesternGuy