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Author Topic: learning bike shoot  (Read 6910 times)

pwalderh

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2012, 10:51:37 AM »
Panning is all about practice try to shoot passing cars or go to a racetrack just to practice - select AI servo and TV and start at 1/250 and work your way down. This shot done with a 300mm handheld at 1/40 - Good luck

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #15 on: August 22, 2012, 10:51:37 AM »

Studio1930

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2012, 11:38:21 AM »
Darrin,
nice agility shots.... when you use the 200/2 and monopod do you still have the IS enabled??

I find the startup time for the gyros can cause blurry pictures if I try to shoot to quickly...

Thanks.  I am testing between using IS mode 2 and no IS.  So far I see no difference so I think I'll leave it on.  With my 1D4 I have to make sure I track early but with the new 1DX I have been able to shoot quick, instant, stab at the trigger shots and get perfectly sharp images.  The 1DX really has changed things.  The 200 f/2 must be stabilizing quickly since I have not noticed any issues although I really do try to track early (2 seconds early) before shooting to allow the camera and lens to get their act together. :)
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atosk930

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2012, 12:10:24 PM »
did no one notice that he said "24-70 F2.8 II"...

I didn't think these were available to the public yet?

I have shot a lot of bikes this summer. I am by no means an expert, but I normally shoot in AV, AI Servo, and use the AF-ON to track and the shutter button to take the picture. I use Shutter priority when I am attempting to get real panning blur, but this is hard as they are passing me in more than 200 km/h.  This picture was taken on Thursday using a borrowed 1DX and the Canon 24-70 F2.8L II.

If you have the chance (and get permission from the ones running the track, try to get a good spot on the track, in a curve where you both have them leaning over with the knee down, also where you can catch them speeding away.
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Quasimodo

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2012, 02:39:21 PM »
did no one notice that he said "24-70 F2.8 II"...

I didn't think these were available to the public yet?

I have shot a lot of bikes this summer. I am by no means an expert, but I normally shoot in AV, AI Servo, and use the AF-ON to track and the shutter button to take the picture. I use Shutter priority when I am attempting to get real panning blur, but this is hard as they are passing me in more than 200 km/h.  This picture was taken on Thursday using a borrowed 1DX and the Canon 24-70 F2.8L II.

If you have the chance (and get permission from the ones running the track, try to get a good spot on the track, in a curve where you both have them leaning over with the knee down, also where you can catch them speeding away.

Lets just say that it is awsome. Feels great in the hand and gives great pictures. I opened a thread with some shots from that lens, and I had 87 views and no comments, so I took it that people were not interested.

I was lucky enough to borrow it for 24 hours 6 days ago.
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Ewinter

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2012, 02:50:47 PM »
Could be the 24-105 IS fighting you, if it was on. Has it got IS mode 2? if not, then it might be the IS fighting your panning causing the blur. I don't have experience with this lens, so I can't be sure

Kernuak

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2012, 05:08:49 PM »
Could be the 24-105 IS fighting you, if it was on. Has it got IS mode 2? if not, then it might be the IS fighting your panning causing the blur. I don't have experience with this lens, so I can't be sure
No the 24-105 only has a single IS mode.
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Ewinter

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2012, 09:11:17 PM »
Could be the 24-105 IS fighting you, if it was on. Has it got IS mode 2? if not, then it might be the IS fighting your panning causing the blur. I don't have experience with this lens, so I can't be sure
No the 24-105 only has a single IS mode.
I believe panning with normal IS then can cause a degradation in the IQ. I'd wonder what would happen if the OP just turned it off for a few shots next time

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #21 on: August 22, 2012, 09:11:17 PM »

Bosman

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2012, 10:18:45 PM »
Using a monopod is a must for smooth panning and yes like ^ turn on is. The Canon whites often have 2 options for IS. The 2nd one is specially for panning, when most the time you use the 1 selection for is on canon whites.
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gngan

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #23 on: October 15, 2012, 06:47:01 AM »
Hi again. I am planning to go malaysian Motogp in Oct so I figure I would go out and practise first on my 24-105 before I dive in and buy a 70-200 f4.

BUT, most of my shots came out blur AGAIN.
I was trying to 'pan' a little. exif should be available

any and all comments and suggestions welcome

Hi Bearbooth, I am also from HK and a biker as well. The rider is going a bit slow on that corner that's why your setting is off. Tell me when you will go to TMS and i can meet up with you.
« Last Edit: October 15, 2012, 06:56:01 AM by gngan »

V8Beast

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #24 on: October 15, 2012, 03:27:25 PM »
Hi again. I am planning to go malaysian Motogp in Oct so I figure I would go out and practise first on my 24-105 before I dive in and buy a 70-200 f4.

Since the 24-105 does not have the option to pick between Mode 1 and Mode 2 IS, make sure to turn the stabilizer off. It's always extremely difficult to pull off a pan blur at the angle the bike is approaching you in the shot you posted. That's because the bike is heading toward you, and the focal plane is constantly changing. Consequently, the angle at which the bike is traveling and the angle at which you're panning is only synchronized for a very brief moment in time. You would have much better luck by changing the camera angle so that you're shooting more of a side profile instead of front. The shot pwalderh posted is a great example.

A few more thoughts:

- The greater the focal length, the more motion blur you will achieve for a given shutter speed.
- xxD bodies, the 5DC, and 5D2 tend to lock focus on the center of the subject, so you have to manipulate your composition accordingly to make sure the front of the bike is sharp. IMHO, getting the headlights of a bike or car sharp is as important as getting the eyes of a model sharp in a portrait. Even if the rest of the bike is sharp, if the headlights are soft, it will look like junk.

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Re: learning bike shoot
« Reply #24 on: October 15, 2012, 03:27:25 PM »