Here is what I would do (This is meant to teach you to fish, not to catch the fish for you):
Open in Adobe Camera Raw. Kick up the blacks, contrast, etc. to get the overall image as best as you can. Don't worry about the shadows or highlights right now.
Open as a smart object. In Photoshop, make a new smart object via copy (must be a new smart object so the two objects are not linked.)
Open the second smart object in Adobe Camera Raw and start working on the highlights, to bring some detail back into them (adjust exposure first) (Always work downward from the list of adjustments in Camera Raw, starting with exposure and moving down the line. If one adjustment messes up the exposure, go back and adjust the exposure slightly).
Send the second layer back to Photoshop. Now you have two layers, one should be optimized for the midtones, and one for the highlights. Do you need one optimized for the shadows? If so, make another smart object copy and repeat the above in Camera Raw for the shadows.
After you have your two-three layers, add a layer mask to one of the layers. Using the brush tool paint away the parts of the layer to reveal the layer underneath that you want to use. (For example, if your layer optimized for highlights is below the layer optimized for midtones, you will paint away the highlight areas on your midtone layer to reveal the highlight layer underneath) If you paint away too much, switch the brush to white and paint it back in.
After you are done with the second layer, then do the same with the third (create a layer mask and start painting away the areas you want to reveal on the layers below).
This is a really abbreviated version, but experiment and you'll get the idea. Smart layers are absolutely great in this regard, because you can compress the range of tones to fit the subject.
When you get done, link the three layers and then copy all three. You'll now have six layers (or however many you've created times two). Make the original layers invisible and then merge the copied layers using "merge visible" that way, you have one layer you can work with and three invisible layers that preserve all your work, in case you have to go back and adjust something later.
Now, this isn't going to help with cropping (which this photo is going to need quite a bit of). Your can either crop it beforehand in Camera Raw or crop it later in Photoshop. I'm not sure how much cropping you'll be able to do and still have a decent print, I would just start chopping away gradually, until I reach a balance that looks good.
Smart object technique courtesy of Scott Kelby. Highly recommended.
Of course in Photoshop there are a dozen different ways to do the same thing. I just find this the easiest.
