When Canon releases a new firmware version, there is the usual list of fixes and feature enhancements, but there are also fixes that aren't for public consumption and won't be mentioned in the firmware documentation and it appears at least one such issue was fixed quietly in the Canon EOS R with firmware v1.2.0.
Michael The Maven has posted a comparison of two EOS R cameras, one with firmware v1.1.0 which experienced banding issues and the brand new firmware v1.2.0 which seems to have corrected the issue.
From Michael the Maven:
Ladies and Gentlemen! WE HAVE DONE IT!! Thank you so much to the many of you who gave feedback, shared my videos, posted in forums and relayed the information you received from Canon, I can confirm that Firmware update 1.2.0 resolves the banding issue I reported back in November on the Canon EOS R!
I received a lot of unfounded criticism from those who didn't understand the issue, but we stood by the results we were seeing, that it was a real issue, and now Canon has quietly released a firmware issue that resolves it! WELL DONE EVERYONE! This is how powerful social media can be when we work together! If you are an EOS R owner, I would strongly suggest you update to 1.2.0 and reap the benefits of improved sensor performance!
:rolleyes::rolleyes:
I like to understand the equipment I am using and have done several tests. About twice I have seen banding in some test shots where I was pushing/pulling my 5DIV. A bit odd, but I did not always see it, but a couple of times, sure. If I recall, this occurred fairly specifically, extremely underexposed image, longer shutter speeds, pushed ~4-5 stops in post. But I have never had this impact an actual image, landscape or otherwise.
But, if you need to push an image 4-5 stops for your photography, ok, Canon may not be for you.
He said landscape work with the sun in the image - in that case you would like to have 16-20 stops of DR. And IMO he is right.
Or is it......
Great shot! I don't expect to see anything comparable from the DRoners.
It's a very good shot but I think the necessary DR isn't that vast because the gray surface has around 20% reflection (looks like a Kodak gray card) and the sun is blown out. Do you have used a mask to make the person brighter?
The sun in the frame in a deep forest is impossible right now with available photographic cameras so I would like to have 16 stops or more but I know very well that it will not always help if you try to compress that dynamics into a 6 or 8 stop wide print.
I've used the 300 IS ii on the R, and I wouldn't remotely call it unusable. Mode 3 works almost exactly the same as before. I agree, it would be better if IS stops whenever the metering stops to save power (much like the DSLRs), but I haven't noticed a dramatic power hit beyond the usual living in live view. I have noticed that whenever I shoot with the main display disabled, after the viewfinder turns itself off upon removal of my face, IS seems to stop regardless of power savings settings.
Presumably they want to keep the image stabilized for all the face and object tracking algorithms, but it would be nice to customize the operation. Still, I'm not worried about it.
Under what circumstances would the sun not be blown out?
A LEDs photon flux can be changed between 10 photons per second up to 10^12 photons per second should be possible resulting in a DR of roughly ridculous 25 stops ... theoretically.
EDIT: 10^12 = 1 000 000 000 000 is a rough estimate
I don't remember him on these forums, but there is folks that write in to me about DR and banding and I thought the content was relevant to those people.
I'm personally not one of those people that care about DR specs and pushing shadows by a million stops... but to each their own.
Every time. Every single time a wide DR scene is shot on a Canon someone comes back with "...it's not THAT wide a scene." Like clock work. No examples of their own...but the Canon example just isn't good enough. DxO and DPReview said so!
:rolleyes:
Neuro...when the sun is on the other side of the Earth you should be able to aim your camera at the ground, take a shot, and reveal the sun by pushing the shadow detail. Of course Canon can't do that but I bet Sony can! :ROFLMAO: