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Hi, has anyone used Tether Tools Air Direct with his/her Canon M6 II? Thanks!

Thanks for the comments, but my post was not about tripods. I just wanted to share my experience that one major advantage of the electronic shutter of the M6II (sorry for posting in the wrong section of the forum) is that it is completely vibration free and that that can matter. That's all. I...

Hi everyone. I own the EOS 5DsR and oftentimes wished it were mirrorless, because the mirror DOES cause vibrations and can spoil images. I have also been using M cameras for a while (M, M3, M50 and now M6II) and always thought that they had no shutter vibration. Until today, when I wanted to...

Hi cayenne. Thanks for the thoughts. Editing is the obvious workaround, but continuous is still the aim. As I said, I am using the EOS R. It seems however (I just found out) that the Moza Air 2 gimbal now also supports the EOS R. This might solve my problem, although a remote system would still...

Hi, i need to shoot a walk from outside (bright sunlight) to inside a building (not so bright artificial light). Brightness level and color temperature change a lot when entering the building. So I need to adapt ISO and white balance on the fly. I use the Moza Air 2 gimbal that doesn't support...

I own the Mavic Air and while I am quite happy with it, the optical performance for stills could be better. My major concern is the distortion of the lens. I am creating spherical panoramas with it and it is hard to stitch them perfectly. Stability of the positioning is the most important...

There is optical distortion (barrel or cushion, for wideangle lenses it is mostly the barrel type) and perspective distortion. Optical distortion on the TS-E 17 mm is negligable, on the 12-24 it is well controlled but visible at 12 mm and practically non-existent at around 18 mm. At any rate it...

To answer your question, whether I find myself in any situation which would make me use the TS-E instead of the 12-24: Those situation are very rare. Obviously there is the advantage of tilting of the TS-E. But since 17 mm provide already a large depth of field, you hardly need that feature...

Until very recently I owned all three lenses, but I sold the 400 L. The image quality of the 100-400 II is better in the center and by far good enough in the corners. Contrast is better. IS is sooooo much better. 400 L is lighter and has less distortion, that's about it. The 70-300 is nice if...

I own it but rarely use it. I prefer my Sigma 12-24 Art, as it gives me a larger angle of view if I need that (especially for interiors), the convenience of a zoom, the convenience of autofocus and if I need shifting, I level the camera horizontally in portrait format and crop the bottom part...

I bought this lens a month ago and have taken it to 3 trips, one through Switzerland and parts of France, one to German countryside and one to Paris, mainly for taking photos of buildings. On the whole I am quite happy with it, but there are definitely some issues with it that most reviews don't...

Hi! I have the 5DsR with some very, very sharp lenses, so the 55-200 is definitely not the sharpest lens I've ever used. But given the size and the price I find it very good value and I actually use it quite a lot. Here are some samples taken with my M3 and the 55-200 (original RAW files)...

I own the 24 Art and the 50 Art. I previously had used them on a 6 D and found the focus consistency good enough. Recently I purchased a 5DsR and now, the inconsistency is barely tolerable. I nevertheless shot a wedding with it. I set the camera to AI servo and for each motif, I shot a burst of...

If "backlit" means the light source is in the picture, the hood is not particularly useful. A bit, but not much. Also, if the direct sun is in your back, you don't need the hood either. You need it when the sun is not in the picture but comes from an angle where its beams can reach the glass of...

In both Canon lenses, the decentering was very obvious in real world photos already, but I have a lens check resolution test poster hanging in my office which I can use to get repeatable results. With that I can see even minor differences in sharpness across the frame. (This one, in case your...

QC is not only an issue with Sigma and Tamron, but also with Canon. My three most recently acquired lenses are: Sigma 50 Art Canon 4/16-35 L IS Canon 100-400 L II The Sigma was perfect, but both Canon lenses were significantly decentered. I had to send them back and only the replacements were...

I found both the lens and the article underwhelming, especially the article because it left out some major considerations. First of all: To get that "magic" 1200-mm-feeling, you can buy a 600 L II and a 2xIII extender. You just lose 1 stop of light. So agreed, that's not 100 % the same...

The 16-35 f/4 also has a fair amount of field curvature, but if focussed properly you don't see it, because it's hidden in the depth of field at f/4. (as it is not a problem with the 24 art when stopped down to f/4). You *can* see it, if the focus is not perfect. Then it is possible that the...

Roger Cicala somehow argues that since then lens has no flat field of focus it is not usable at 1.4 and has to be stopped down, which negates the purpose of a 1.4 lens. I don't share this view at all. What do we mostly need a 1.4 lens for? a) There is little ambient light and we need to freeze...

5DII + EF 400 5.6 L + Canon 2xIII + Kenko 1.4x @ f/32. 1/8000 s ISO 50 I held the button that actually closes the aperture (don't know hot it's called in english) pressed, so that the light that passed through the lens was quite dimmed and moreover I deliberately did that handheld. Since the...